dangerousdan 16 Posted September 22, 2013 Report Share Posted September 22, 2013 Hi, New to this and need some scope help. The scope I have is a Hawke Sport HD 4-12x50 AO IR. 1. I don't know what I should be doing with the adjustable objective. Do i need to adjust it for every target I aim at or do I leave it set at a fixed value? 2. The adjustable eyepiece is just set to the most screwed in position. I don't know what do to with this either. 3. It needs zero-ing. What settings do I use on both the adjustable lenses to do the zeroing, and at what distance do I do the zero-ing at? My scope has resettable turrets. Do I adjust these when its zero'd or not? I have tried reading up on this stuff but not helping with understanding it. Thanks Quote Link to post
slammer99uk 1 Posted September 22, 2013 Report Share Posted September 22, 2013 Hi, New to this and need some scope help. The scope I have is a Hawke Sport HD 4-12x50 AO IR. 1. I don't know what I should be doing with the adjustable objective. Do i need to adjust it for every target I aim at or do I leave it set at a fixed value? 2. The adjustable eyepiece is just set to the most screwed in position. I don't know what do to with this either. 3. It needs zero-ing. What settings do I use on both the adjustable lenses to do the zeroing, and at what distance do I do the zero-ing at? My scope has resettable turrets. Do I adjust these when its zero'd or not? I have tried reading up on this stuff but not helping with understanding it. Thanks 1 - Use it to focus on the target you are looking at through the scope. 2 - Point the unloaded gun at the sky or a large light coloured back ground, turn the ring (eyebell) so the cross hairs are sharp to look at through the scope. 3 - do 1 & 2 above first, set up a target at your desired range (what this is is up to you, though I use 25 yards) take aim, shoot a pellet. Take note where it lands in relation to where you were aiming at. adjust for up/down first using the up/down turret. when you are consistently shooting on the horizontal plane move on the left/right in the same manner. Once happy with the zero, reset the turret markings to 0 on both (read the manual on how to do this without actually changing zero on the scope, from memory, Hawke scopes require you to slacken off 2 screws under each turret cover to enable the markings to rotate without altering the zero and tight them up afterwards and replace the turret covers) Have fun mate Jerry Quote Link to post
slave 33 Posted September 22, 2013 Report Share Posted September 22, 2013 Have a look at this guide http://www.anstonftc.co.uk/hft-scope-setup-guide/ Quote Link to post
A1WOC 212 Posted September 22, 2013 Report Share Posted September 22, 2013 To set up the scope to suit your own eyesight, look through the scope at the open sky; adjust the eye piece lens (ocular lens) to achieve the best clarity to produce a sharp reticle image. Once the ocular lens is set to you own optical vision it doesn’t require altering. Use the front adjustable objective lens only to focus on your subject at the various distances. Regards, Steve Quote Link to post
Craig Fosse 286 Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 Just fr my ten pence mate, the AO part is used to focus onto a target at any distance so it's not blurry, u turn it to the distance the object is at to sharpen the image, this does not alter ur zero! Quote Link to post
dangerousdan 16 Posted September 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 The ocular lens seems fine at the fully screwed in position. As I unscrew it it doesnt start to go blurry until about half way out. Thats with my contact lenses in. Im not sure im doing it right. I pointed it at blue sky with the ao in the infinity position. Quote Link to post
Craig Fosse 286 Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 Won't work as well mate, do you have the AO with numbers? Turn it to infinity and look at something at like 15 yards and the picture will be blurry then wind it back and it will get clearer Quote Link to post
Acuspell 329 Posted September 24, 2013 Report Share Posted September 24, 2013 (edited) You did the right thing to get the cross hair sharp (the rear lens group) That stays fixed for all ranges, it is adjusted for your eyesight. The Front, adjustable focus is to focus the target and at HIGH magnification will need focussing for different ranges. AT LOW MAGNIFICATION (6x and below) you can set it at around 30 yards and verything from about 20 feet - 40 yards will be sharp enough to see to shoot accurately. A good guide for zero ranges ae: .177 = 34 yards .20 = 31 yards .22 = 28 yards Then you need to shoot targets at different ranges to discover the arc of flight for your setup. Set up a target at 10, 15, 20, 25, 30 (ish - your zero) 35, 40, 45 - and just for the hell of it, 50 yards. Aim dead on each one and shoot a group of at least 3, 5 is better. AIM DEAD ON EACH TIME. If you then note where the group coincides with your reticule THAT is the aiming point for that target range. Make a note - the pellets will hit HIGH from about 12 yards - 25 yards. Then LOW once past your zero range. Edited September 24, 2013 by Acuspell Quote Link to post
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