risingfriend 1,042 Posted September 24, 2013 Report Share Posted September 24, 2013 If you can solder then build your own for £30 the torch is a uniquefire uf t 20 and you need an oslon black, solder to a pill and bobs your uncle the oslon has to be reflow soldered onto a star,then you solder that through the brass "pill" to a single mode driver board actually Bulit a couple meself bud but buy the star already done and bobs your uncle or even easier buy the star and pill and fanny,s your aunt still cheaper Quote Link to post Share on other sites
risingfriend 1,042 Posted September 24, 2013 Report Share Posted September 24, 2013 Not mine but a copy from another forum ( if not ok mods then please remove) complete guide below and loads of info on nv forum but this one seems to be all in one place. i take no credit for the following some one more clever than meself came up with the idea Uniquefire TF20 Oslon Conversion Photos Thought I'd just take a few piccies while modifying my uniquefire tf20 to take the oslon black IR. For anyone interested the bits you'll need are:- Oslon black IR on star. I got mine here: http://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Power...3_206_207.html- Some thermal paste. I used: item number 261103745811- A suitable driver. I used this one: http://dx.com/p/17mm-1050ma-single-m...-3-4-5v-127687- A better soldering iron than mine - the soldering is fiddly and the ageing crud all over mine meant I didn't do a tidy job.- Some decent solder- An uniquefire tf 20 obviously! I bought it here: http://www.manafont.com/product_info...-18650-p-10770I also bought a ruddy great collimator head for a crelant torch here: http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S020468 This should prove useful for foxing ranges, as apparently it screws right on. I'll do that when it arrives and post piccies Anyway first dismantle the uniquefire, unscrewing the clicky tail end first then undo the threaded gizmo holding in the rather nice aspheric lens. Circlip pliers are rather useful if you don't want to make a mess:https://www.dropbox.com/s/2labrvvw9rr9pzu/IMAG0495.jpgBehind it you'll see the LED in the pill - but don't take that out yet.https://www.dropbox.com/s/g23sbyx8eoliwjp/IMAG0497.jpgUnscrew the head BACKWARDS towards the end of the torch and slip it off:https://www.dropbox.com/s/p1fcolh0pq4ufke/IMAG0498.jpgUnscrew the pill - again circlip pliers are useful things:https://www.dropbox.com/s/atvtqu6qaf6yevi/IMAG0499.jpgTake off the white polo sticker and retaining clip, keep them:https://www.dropbox.com/s/11474kj2o3kas3q/IMAG0502.jpgEither snip or unsolder the LED fly leads (I tend to unsolder and re-use them for the new driver/LED):https://www.dropbox.com/s/7ovppbebhn0d8b2/IMAG0503.jpgUnsolder and remove the old driver, and spring. I keep the old spring for the new driver also so try not to knacker it:https://www.dropbox.com/s/b5lky25s2m5g4gi/IMAG0505.jpgThan you're left with an empty pill (which I clean up, remove old paste and solder) and a load of bits. You can keep the driver and LED in a box or drawer somewhere to annoy the wife, or just bin it. I prefer the former.https://www.dropbox.com/s/qztkoy6ms6z45lc/IMAG0518.jpgNOW FOR THE NEW BITS:Solder the fly leads to the NEW driver. Its easier to do it with a soldering clamp and when finished it should look better than this:https://www.dropbox.com/s/tn6y8k61bs7d8bl/IMAG0519.jpgA clear idea of where they go is here (thanks to someone I nicked this pic from, can't remember who! (red positive, black negative for the hard of thinking)):https://www.dropbox.com/s/ffm6y6u87k...pscaa188bc.jpgPass the fly leads through the holes in the pill and solder the outer edge of the driver to the pill, and the spring to the centre. At this point my soldering iron is starting to function as well as a butter knife and a blowtorch, so excuse the heinous mess:https://www.dropbox.com/s/94am9buzxtxshp3/IMAG0520.jpgThen Add a small blob of thermal paste to the back of the pill and push into position:https://www.dropbox.com/s/wgbdwji3qxiuw6m/IMAG0521.jpgThen its a simple case of soldering the fly leads to the pill contacts, replace the retaining clip and polo sticker and re-assemble the whole torch. Then switch on, realise your crap soldering hasn't worked*, disassemble, swear, burn yourself, swear, reassemble, and repeat until functional (sort of). 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
villaman 9,983 Posted September 25, 2013 Report Share Posted September 25, 2013 HiWent out with mine last night, have put mine on a pulsar N550 with a Sony doubler ,well what a difference worth getting .Nice one Marky Quote Link to post Share on other sites
the big chief 3,099 Posted September 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2013 Hi Went out with mine last night, have put mine on a pulsar N550 with a Sony doubler ,well what a difference worth getting . Nice one Marky i went out too i got a good 350 yards with it on the n550 then i had it on my bresser 5x50 and managed 300 yards i like it that much i am getting another just for my spotter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
some bloke 60 Posted September 25, 2013 Report Share Posted September 25, 2013 A clear idea of where they go is here (thanks to someone I nicked this pic from, can't remember who! (red positive, black negative for the hard of thinking)): https://www.dropbox.com/s/ffm6y6u87k...pscaa188bc.jpg That wus me innit. But I nicked the original from the DX site. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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