Elliott 436 Posted June 14, 2013 Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 (edited) Just bought another of these since losing my last one. Decided to go for a colour that would stand out in the grass being as it was that's where I lost my last one which was green. £15.99 from a local shop in Kirkby Londsdale. This one has a more heavy duty blade with a thicker spine. Loved my last one but need to be careful it doesn't rust. Can anyone reccomend a tool for keeping the blade nice and sharp, I suppose a good old oil stone would be as good as anything? Edited June 14, 2013 by Elliott 1 Quote Link to post
B.P.R 2,798 Posted June 14, 2013 Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 This is what i use on my more...gerber and kitchen knives. http://www.bladetech.co.uk/blade_tech.html 1 Quote Link to post
Wildling 520 Posted June 14, 2013 Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 Them Mora's are top class at the price and if you lose the odd one now and again you can live with it. The carbons do tend to rust up though if you don't take care of them. Quote Link to post
stealthy1 3,964 Posted June 14, 2013 Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 Its got a nice point for paunching Quote Link to post
ghillies 209 Posted June 14, 2013 Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 This is what i use on my more...gerber and kitchen knives. http://www.bladetech.co.uk/blade_tech.html are they better than a round file? Quote Link to post
B.P.R 2,798 Posted June 14, 2013 Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 This is what i use on my more...gerber and kitchen knives. http://www.bladetech.co.uk/blade_tech.html are they better than a round file? cant comment on that mate. ive never used a round file.... only ever used this and it works Quote Link to post
TimS 49 Posted June 14, 2013 Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 I have a few Moras alongside other knives. Best low cost sharpener for a Mora I have found is a Fallkniven DC4 : http://www.heinnie.com/Sharpeners/Fallkniven-Sharpeners/DC3DC4-Whetstones/p-370-212-418/ Followed by a strop with a small amount of Autosol polishing compound from Halfords: http://www.heinnie.com/Sharpeners/Razor-Strop/p-370-8950/ Quick touch up now and again keeps it sharp enough to shave with. Great little knives. I also put an elastic band around the top to stop the knife sliding out of the sheath by accident and put a few around the sheath just in case, never can have too many laggy bands! Tim Quote Link to post
audiguypaul 28 Posted June 14, 2013 Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 This is what i use on my more...gerber and kitchen knives. http://www.bladetech.co.uk/blade_tech.html £8.50 delivered on the bay Quote Link to post
villaman 9,982 Posted June 14, 2013 Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 Cheaper here http://www.amazon.co.uk/Blade-Bladetech-Tungsten-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B00622FT2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371243352&sr=8-1&keywords=bladetech+knife+sharpener Quote Link to post
ghillies 209 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 (edited) hmmm ty for them links may well look into them i generaly end up taking to a file to re edge anything i buy, especialy if its for bait fish, theres a sushi sharp angle that suddenly produces fish when the other knifecuts wont..tried and tested a couple times. Edited June 15, 2013 by ghillies Quote Link to post
TimS 49 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 Bladetec is not right for a Mora. Mora knives have a Scandi grind edge, so you ideally need a flatstone. A bladetec will give it a 20 or 30 degree bevel on the edge which will change the way the knife performs and how long the edge will last. These devices are good, but not suitable for every knife. Google Scandi grind and knife edges and you'll learn a lot about the options. I love my Mora - great knife and when sharp good for just about everything. Quote Link to post
MickC 1,825 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 As above better to use a flat stone than one of those Bladetec type sharpeners. I use 2 flat DMT diamond files fine/ extra fine (being a Joiner already had them handy ) then I use a flat piece of wood with leather glued to it for stropping the blade after sharpening using Autosol which def helps getting a really good edge. I've got a few knives but my favourite is a Mora bushcraft black,which can be sharpened very quickly. Quote Link to post
villaman 9,982 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 As above better to use a flat stone than one of those Bladetec type sharpeners. I use 2 flat DMT diamond files fine/ extra fine (being a Joiner already had them handy ) then I use a flat piece of wood with leather glued to it for stropping the blade after sharpening using Autosol which def helps getting a really good edge. I've got a few knives but my favourite is a Mora bushcraft black,which can be sharpened very quickly. As above better to use a flat stone than one of those Bladetec type sharpeners. I use 2 flat DMT diamond files fine/ extra fine (being a Joiner already had them handy ) then I use a flat piece of wood with leather glued to it for stropping the blade after sharpening using Autosol which def helps getting a really good edge. I've got a few knives but my favourite is a Mora bushcraft black,which can be sharpened very qu You can all so use toothpaste Quote Link to post
ghillies 209 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 (edited) http://backyardbushman.com/?page_id=13 as far as i know full convex for a full axe full flat..nice fishbiat/ sushi edge hi flat curring 'flesh'/meat..fish hollow..is erm over did that lol..(dont know) scandi..thats as far as i can be arsed to get this sharp lol..flesh/meat fish. the finer the edge, e.g. the harder to keep it perfick and the easier it loses an edge, 'full flat types to scandi. an axe chipes out here and there with too fine an edge, but its all dependant on how hard you use it, what its made off and how long you want it for. (the more times its sharpened the more metal gets removed faster..) i find a 'quick ' sharpening regularly you can get a nice 'axe edge' (conves) elongateted like a longer scandi that seemsto just last ages untill the shape changes then its goes chronic and its a be atch to get sharp again.(hense my knifes of late are el cheepos so i just reach for the file..5 mins i have a sushi cutter lol) must admit though it nice useing a wet stone and honing a good edge.. any other veiws on this guys n gall's? edit in.......you need to know whaat the edge is btw, if its a really cheap 'insert' edge you can file the edge material off very quick with the full edge, then your left with a shitty soft metal knife that may be good or usualy it just goes blunt on a natts wing.. Edited June 15, 2013 by ghillies Quote Link to post
Wildling 520 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 I'll be the first to hold my hands up and say I'm absolutely shit at sharpening field knives and would love to be shown how to do a scandi grind in person. Quote Link to post
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