Craig Fosse 286 Posted May 7, 2013 Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 Hi guys, I'm trying to find the best zero range for my rifle (s200 .177), the thing is the main rabbit warren on this permission is a 45 downhill slope with a bank thank you can rest your rifle on, problem is the hold over that I have is anywhere from bang on the crosshairs or as far as one milldot hold over from a typical range of 20-40 yards, this results in me missing a few rabbits purely by misjudging the angle, to make matters worse the more I move up the bank the steeper the angle I shoot down. I'm wondering if anyone could advise me in the best to zero for this?, as an average my zerod rifle at 30 yards flat is about half a milldot hold over when I shoot downhill. Should I zero on a the decline instead then work out my flat aim points instead? It's getting a bit frustrating to be honest because I am finding that my hold over is completely different for a rabbit eating grass because of the downhill angl3 thank to one standing up. I hope I have explained it well enough? Most people will say chair gun but I don't have a chrono and frankly the thing had to many inputs for me to understand it Cheers Craig Quote Link to post
Craig Fosse 286 Posted May 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 P.s I do apologise for the previous posts could a mod please delete them, my stupid iPhone Quote Link to post
reaper1064 285 Posted May 7, 2013 Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 Go on a day that your not to bothered about bagging anything, set out some targets and then work out your aim points. Just as easy as shifting your zero to suit the incline as you have still got to work out your aim points on the level. Quote Link to post
Craig Fosse 286 Posted May 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 Yer, problem is for the next week if so its bloody windy and I wanna get out hahaha! Quote Link to post
walshie 2,804 Posted May 7, 2013 Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 I always thought you had to hold under when shooting up or down an incline? Quote Link to post
Craig Fosse 286 Posted May 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 Yer sorry mate I meant hold under, that's me just being stupid Quote Link to post
mark williams 7,551 Posted May 7, 2013 Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 Aye up Craig, Set your position to shoot downhill and if you are zeroed at 27 yds in 177 you should not be bothered with hold over or under according to my golborne comprehensive maths."at 27 yds". My trick is to use a small cardboard box with targets siliconed on put out at 25,30,35,40,45,- max` 50 yd and a smooth pebble the size of a tomato with the range painted on in the position you expect the rabbits,- now rabbits dont read very well and my pebble method is far cheaper and "quicker" than a range finder. Go to your spot and practice the ranges and hold unders/ overs- the pebbles will give you good accuracy mate. atb (might treat myself to a modern range finder soon but this does work very well indeed) 4 Quote Link to post
Craig Fosse 286 Posted May 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 This is what I wanted to hear, I have heard about this 27 yards and that there is hardly any hold over, but does this mean the same for incline and decline? The actual range doesn't really bother me to much as I do generally use a range finder, but the problem is with the bank is 30 yards on one part of the bank is steeper than the other, which means I am missing it. The thing is I have heard a few people talk about 27 yards zeroing before and was wondering why it's such a good place. Quote Link to post
ghillies 209 Posted May 8, 2013 Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 three ways to do it, or 2 if you count two as the same. zero on the horizontal zero on the floor whilst sood but on horizontal ground or zero above the horizontal. all the ways have the same thing in comman, i.e. theyre slightly different in turms of all the other ranges. most use the horizontal leval with the gun method and go from there. which ever way you choose you'll find the angle of inclanation affects it, you learn the method your used to, or you pick one and get used to that. chopping and changing takes longer for you to find the pellet. Quote Link to post
Craig Fosse 286 Posted May 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 Yer fair one mate, stupid stupid permission hahaha Quote Link to post
ghillies 209 Posted May 8, 2013 Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 there is the mildot way of working it all out, but havent the fogyist what it is, its basicaly knowing the drop and holdovers in a fixed mil dot value, it can all be worked out on paper or your head, so it doesnt matter how far you zero.. seen one bloke pick up my gun ask what the mildots were and what mag and didnt miss anything, he was proper 2 mile shooter though. Quote Link to post
mark williams 7,551 Posted May 8, 2013 Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 if i am reading this correctly Craig you are shooting downhill to ground which is sloping one side to the other across the horizontal plane. If i have read this correctly i would suggest target practice the left and make milldot notes with the range markers in place. Then "seperately" make milldot notes and range mark the right side with markers in place. The zero will be "different" atb Quote Link to post
TimS 49 Posted May 8, 2013 Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 Craig, If you have an iPhone you can download the Strelok app or Hawke Chairgun apps and they will tell you the holdover/under based on your angle of incline or decline once you put your rifle, pellet and zero details in. I used it to get to know the same when shooting crows out of trees. Getting perfect headshots from my fixed position at 45yds now. Winner! Tim Quote Link to post
Craig Fosse 286 Posted May 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 Problem is I need a chrono to know the fps of my rifle which I don't have unfortunately Quote Link to post
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.