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Hi I'm looking to make a furnace for making knife blanks . I have this and I am thinking I could use heat bricks from a storage heater . And blow air in from the trap at the bottom . If anyone has any advice it would be great full... Matt cheers lol :) but any advice will help .

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Ok this is a big and old topic but I think it's fair to say most options work but not all of them very well .

A few things to think about are , what fuel charcoal / coke .

Charcoal is easy to come by and looks cheap initially , until you use it then you go throught loads of it very quickly . It only has a few down sides . It burns very very hot and unless you know how to work it will burn or melt your blank very fast , also it sparks like hell. . The sparks are super heated and stick to you and burn til the fuel in it has been burnt . It pops and a shower of sparks goes in all directions . You need as good quality lump wood charcoal as you can get lots of it kept very dry . It's great stuff my preference for solid fuel forged blades .

You will need only a tiny amount of air flow into it steve and something very controlable ( air bed foot pump would be good) .

Coke is dirty and expensive in my mind of £450 a ton minimum order unless you know someone that uses it they might sell you a couple of bags ?

It's very smoky and slow burning there for safer for the steel . You need more air to feed it so something with a motor . Bouncy castle fan or Hoover set to blow should do it, but you need a way to control the air in or you will just burn up the blank your fuel and the forge .

 

Refractory . There are lots of options . Charcoal needs to be cased in something really good but coke can sit in its own dust on top of bare metal .

 

The next thing is the chimeny your looking to use its cast iron and has a low melting temp , get it to hot it's going to drip !!!!!!!!

If I was going to do this and I have several times .

I would look at a side blown forge ( English and japaneses) with heavy fire bricks ( that's what there called ) on the floor and sides of the forge . With an air hole on the left about 1.5" above the floor of the forge .

It's only going to be a small forge so expect to work one end of the blank at a time .

 

A word of warning tho steve , iv just sold all my anvils this week as I have damaged my arm forgoing and can no longer do it !!!!

That a big passion in my life gone for good !!

Your equipment is everything mate don't skimp on a thing . This can be done with scrap stuff and you can get results but its worth every penny to get good equipment .

 

If I had to do it all again I'd get lots of quality tongs a gas forge and a good anvil . And expect it to f**k up more than it goes right !

 

Good luck with it steve .

 

Ps if its just for the fun of bashing some steel good dry wood in there with a hair dryer blowing in some air would be fine !!

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Cheers Matt good advice thanks :) slowly looking into it google and YouTube is great ! But first hand knowledge is always best :) I'm going to make a small unit using a gas blow torch which you can only do little bits on but something I'm gonna start this summer :)

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For heat treating a big propane torch into a well lined box will work a treat .

You will only need ceramic wool to line that Steve .

The lighter the refractor the better on light fired forges , because anything mortar based takes up alot of fuel to get to heat and keep it there .

You could use two army ammo boxes .one for clean motor oil to quench into and one as your forge . Cut two holes in the forge one , one at the end to feed work in to the forge , and one in the middle on the side for the torch . Line with ceramic wool and insert the nozzle of the burner , lighter her up wait 5 mins to get the temp and then your in business .

Once the steel is just above cherry red make sure it's non magnetic and quench in the oil .

 

Budget approach but one that will work!

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