paulus 26 Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 getting a dog to change its style of working to suite the disciplin your doing at the time, a long ranging dog is no good if your shooting with a shotgun the same with a dog that won`t sit still in a pigeon hide and retrive on command. a dog that will hunt up daytime and yet return to heel as soon as the lamp is switched off. the key to this topic is an inteligent dog who`s had bags of expierence in multiple disciplines or do we call that training Quote Link to post
baw 4,360 Posted March 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 On 28/03/2013 at 06:54, TOMO said: On 28/03/2013 at 06:44, baw said: On 28/03/2013 at 06:38, TOMO said: Easy question mate,,,, net work,,, both long netting and gate netting My thoughts too mate, especially the long net. My dogs don't touch rabbits in purse nets but trying to get them to stop before a long net I just can't master. Lots of bits of broken burned heather about, once the nets been hit by a dog, its a b*****d to unfankle lol to the point I find it pointless carrying the f*****g thing and taking the time to set it up. It would be good to master though on those + holers lol. Do you use one mate and how do you do with it?I do mate,,, I was tought the old way with trad nets ,, at night,, and never used a dog,, Ferreting in the day ,,, yes I use long nets from time to time,, hardly at all this last year or so ,,, but it's just down to perseverance ,, ,, also when there pups getting them jumping the net,,, mind Tara was a c**t for pulling them out the long net,,, although Venus is perfect when using nets, never touches them It's the pulling the rabbits out and generally stopping before the net, just not worth the hassle for me. Nets snagging on burned heather..... Alright for you southern softies and your big lush bowling green fields Quote Link to post
baw 4,360 Posted March 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 On 28/03/2013 at 06:57, TOMO said: Now the easiest form of dog work ,,, has to be catching hares in Scotland ,, I have it on good authority that there all piss easy up there running on tuffty land,, so much so that collie greyhound can catch them.... nibble........... nibble....nibble Quote Link to post
baw 4,360 Posted March 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 On 28/03/2013 at 07:01, paulus said: getting a dog to change its style of working to suite the disciplin your doing at the time, a long ranging dog is no good if your shooting with a shotgun the same with a dog that won`t sit still in a pigeon hide and retrive on command. a dog that will hunt up daytime and yet return to heel as soon as the lamp is switched off. the key to this topic is an inteligent dog who`s had bags of expierence in multiple disciplines or do we call that training No it's called lazyness, fetch your own pigeons Quote Link to post
paulus 26 Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 On 28/03/2013 at 07:22, baw said: On 28/03/2013 at 07:01, paulus said: getting a dog to change its style of working to suite the disciplin your doing at the time, a long ranging dog is no good if your shooting with a shotgun the same with a dog that won`t sit still in a pigeon hide and retrive on command. a dog that will hunt up daytime and yet return to heel as soon as the lamp is switched off. the key to this topic is an inteligent dog who`s had bags of expierence in multiple disciplines or do we call that training No it's called lazyness, fetch your own pigeons ffs you dont get a dog and bark yourself, the ability to retrieve to the catapult at night in the rain is advantagous Quote Link to post
albert64 1,882 Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 a true ferreting dog/daytime rabbit dog, they have to have it all he has to have his manners, learn that nets are to be respected work cover, a brain to think for himself, got to be stock broke learn hand signals and be patient etc Quote Link to post
FUJI 17,328 Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 I'm all for the easy disciplines..too much hard work and not enough years left for learning the more difficult stuff..so I'll stick to lamping and the blind man lurcher owners speciality of tug on the leash and slip the dawwwwgggg ..... 1 Quote Link to post
baw 4,360 Posted March 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 On 28/03/2013 at 07:24, paulus said: On 28/03/2013 at 07:22, baw said: On 28/03/2013 at 07:01, paulus said: getting a dog to change its style of working to suite the disciplin your doing at the time, a long ranging dog is no good if your shooting with a shotgun the same with a dog that won`t sit still in a pigeon hide and retrive on command. a dog that will hunt up daytime and yet return to heel as soon as the lamp is switched off. the key to this topic is an inteligent dog who`s had bags of expierence in multiple disciplines or do we call that training No it's called lazyness, fetch your own pigeons ffs you dont get a dog and bark yourself, the ability to retrieve to the catapult at night in the rain is advantagous take a big dog to retrieve a stag mate rain or noooo Quote Link to post
fatasafool 216 Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 On 28/03/2013 at 06:34, baw said: The beauty of lurcher work is it covers so many different hunting methods and quarries. You have guys who use dogs soley on foxes. Others into coursing hares. Some hare coursing is in open land like the fens where the dog doesn't need taught stock breaking, jumping, pretty much anything apart from chasing hares, I like to call them point and shoot dogs. Others lamp rabbits, catch deer, some use dogs to mark burries while ferreting and catch the escapes. Some use long nets, some catch hares on smaller land, Some have dogs that do all. Now I know a lot of what I've said is now illegal so for the benefit of the antis, I'm talking preban. What type of lurcher work do you think takes the most training, dedication, etc?how many pages do ya think Quote Link to post
buster gonads 862 Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 Keeping mine off the settee , buster. 2 Quote Link to post
nothernlite 18,089 Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 knowing its alright to kill a rabbit and not a hare 2 Quote Link to post
robwelsh 354 Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 On 28/03/2013 at 08:11, nothernlite said: knowing its alright to kill a rabbit and not a hare still haven't mastered that ...lol Quote Link to post
blackgreyhound 206 Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 most importantly be fully aware of the dangers of fences and hedges is most important.which is why they should be taken out at 4 months onwards to be schooled in such dangers.most dogs that get badly injured get so by not being fully aware of the dangers of barbed wire hedges etc .it is better for a pup to bounce of any objects while still slow than to be let off in such a dangerous envoirement at 10 months Quote Link to post
baw 4,360 Posted March 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 On 28/03/2013 at 07:55, fatasafool said: On 28/03/2013 at 06:34, baw said: The beauty of lurcher work is it covers so many different hunting methods and quarries. You have guys who use dogs soley on foxes. Others into coursing hares. Some hare coursing is in open land like the fens where the dog doesn't need taught stock breaking, jumping, pretty much anything apart from chasing hares, I like to call them point and shoot dogs. Others lamp rabbits, catch deer, some use dogs to mark burries while ferreting and catch the escapes. Some use long nets, some catch hares on smaller land, Some have dogs that do all. Now I know a lot of what I've said is now illegal so for the benefit of the antis, I'm talking preban. What type of lurcher work do you think takes the most training, dedication, etc? how many pages do ya think Hmmmmmm 4 or 5 or if I reply to every post..... 7 you? 1 Quote Link to post
baw 4,360 Posted March 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 On 28/03/2013 at 08:24, blackgreyhound said: most importantly be fully aware of the dangers of fences and hedges is most important.which is why they should be taken out at 4 months onwards to be schooled in such dangers.most dogs that get badly injured get so by not being fully aware of the dangers of barbed wire hedges etc .it is better for a pup to bounce of any objects while still slow than to be let off in such a dangerous envoirement at 10 months Good point well made mate Quote Link to post
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.