Craig Fosse 286 Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 Hi guys, I recently picked up a nikko sterling 3-9 ao mountmaster I'm mega chuffed with it but its my first scope after many before which has the ability to adjust the parrallax or adjustable object. The only thing is I'm not I've rly sure when to use it...is there a base setting which you use just to keep it on say 25 yards when your walking through woodland and then you get the best setting when your stalking a rabbit or do you constantly change it, mine has the lowest setting but no number then you turn it up to 15 yards 25 yards 50 then I won't use anything after that. I would just like a bit more information on using one really in English lol, there is a lot on the Internet but it has flown straight over my head. For example I stop of squirrel in the tree and its about 10 yards away what do I put it on there's a rabbit 36 yards away what setting.. Or do I just try and guage it on the scope. Quote Link to post
pianoman 3,587 Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 Hi Craig. If this is a 1st Focal Plane lens system you should be able to vary your zoom magnification lengths without upsetting your zero. Try a range session to see what happens when you switch from one magnification setting to another at a same-distance zero-ranged target. If not The best way to answer this is to use your scope in a common sense way with regard to the changes of light you will encounter during you shooting day. I zero my Simmons Whitetail classic with its 30/30 reticle on my sub 12 ft/lb HW77 at 25 metres on 6xmag. This gives me reliable paralax correction on a single power over varying ranges that keeps good light gathering as I stalk into woodland or when dusk falls. On the bottom point at which the crosshair changes from thin to thick, it is bang on at 40 metres and an inch more holdover is bang on at 50 metres. This keeps me accurate as the light changes and the scope deals with the darkening onset of night. Do not change it until you have established what changes to your zero occur if and when you do. The whole point of Paralax is the angle at which something is viewed relative to the position it is viewed from. In the case of shooting with a scope, it is your eye's angle of position of view down the tube to the reticle. Ensure you can see the crosshair framed in the circumference of the tube as evenly as you can and you will not have a paralax problem. Hope this helps. Pianoman 1 Quote Link to post
Skot Ruthless Teale 1,701 Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 (edited) also the markings on your scope will most probably be out, eg where is says 15yds might not be bang on 15yds.. if you mostly shoot say 15-35 yards set it to about 20-25yds ish on about 5-7x mag and you should have a pretty good sight picture to any of the ranges in between. if you zoom right in to 9x and try pallarax for 35yds you will only see a blur at 10-15yds lol. so just try figure out a good inbetween point if you can. hope this makes sence, i got confused with mine at first but a bit of plinking and trial and error got my head around it Edited February 4, 2013 by Skot Ruthless Teale Quote Link to post
robwelsh 354 Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 Once you set it to certain range, it will also help with range too..I put my scope on x16 then set the px to whereever it is clearest, mtc seem to be pretty accurate, a lot more than my Hawke, as to be on 35yrds I had to set it at past 50. Then I wind back down to x6 mag an zero , I know then my points, an is plenty good enough for my day shooting, an good enough light gathering for lamping .. Quote Link to post
stubby 175 Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 well,, that lot confussed me, so here's my take in laymans english you already know what distance your crosshairs are set on, say 40yds for argument sake, you look through the scope, with the parellex set high, say 150yds, the picture through the scope will be blurry as hell, slowly wind in back, whilst looking through scope, as the picture becomes spot on clear, look at front of scope, and the yardage its at, now it may so 50yds, so you know you need to aim a bit higher with your crosshairs, in all honesty Ive never found them of much use on air rifles, more usefull on the rimfires Quote Link to post
robwelsh 354 Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 well,, that lot confussed me, so here's my take in laymans english you already know what distance your crosshairs are set on, say 40yds for argument sake, you look through the scope, with the parellex set high, say 150yds, the picture through the scope will be blurry as hell, slowly wind in back, whilst looking through scope, as the picture becomes spot on clear, look at front of scope, and the yardage its at, now it may so 50yds, so you know you need to aim a bit higher with your crosshairs, in all honesty Ive never found them of much use on air rifles, more usefull on the rimfires I don't get much of what your saying either, because if the px adj isn't accurate why do you need to aim higher at 50yrd? I said my Hawke scope set on 50yrd px, was actually only 35yrds...your better off setting it yourself, rather than rely on scope manufacturers "word" unless you pay good money for a scope.. Quote Link to post
Phantom 631 Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 In English for the layman as I understand your queary. To find accurate PA: Set a range of targets out from say 10 to 50 yards or meters (depending on your preferance) in increments of 5 yds/mtrs. Set your PX/AO to the lowest. As Simon (Pianomam) says choose your preferred Magnification. Now take aim at your nearest target and adjust the sidewheel or AO ring until that target is sharp. When it's sharp, mark with a drop of tipex (or similar) on the range scale. Now take aim at 2nd target, adjust until that target is sharp, mark the spot and repeat until you have your scale fully marked. It may supprise you how far out the manufactures scale is out or it could be spot on Now that you have an accurate scale, when you are out you can focus on the target to find out how far it is But as for your original question, most people will set their scope at their chosen zero and stick with it rarely adjusting it. I use the infinity px when looking across the paddock looking for quarry but then go back to 30. When I've been ratting indoors, I wind it back to 15. Hope that helps a little? Tony Quote Link to post
Craig Fosse 286 Posted February 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 So basically the best thing to do is fix onto a target say a 14 yards then wind the ao till the picture is clear... Am I right in saying that moving the ao will affect your zero? Or won't? Thanks for the info guys its got me a little bit happier anyway haha. I use a range finder out while I'm hunting so judging distance isn't a big thing.. I'm just wanting to make sure of I move the ao to get a sharp picture it isn't going to affect my zero on the said target Quote Link to post
Phantom 631 Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 Your Zero should not be effected. As Simom mentioned if your scope is FFP neither should the magnification adjustment, however if its a 2nd FP scope, magnification will affect the mil-dots against range but zero should remain set. Quick example of this (my rifle, 2nd FP) Zero at 30 yard. At x10 mag with my choice of pellet Zero at 30 yard, 1st mildot down = 35 yards At x6 mag 1 dot down = 40 yard A5 x3.5 mag 1 dot down = 46 yard But the Zero stay constant. Quote Link to post
ghillies 209 Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 long story short.. literally no AO at all teach's you to put the head exsactly up tothe scope every time. 'fixed' PA is usualy fixed at 100 yardsany way so isnt actualy getting any use this side of 60 yards.. adjustable AO..yeh it has a use but probably better set at 25-35 so the blurr starts at your near poi on the cross hair so at your furthest 50-55 is still in focus, so you'll end up with two white liquid paper marks on your bell end.. scope! lol, one for near and one for 'far'..higher the mag the less in focus basically, but on mine 9x mag is plenty for the two mark system. 4x mag is a case of put on 35 yard and leave it thre, its a distraction to your fluidity for hunting..unless your at distance on higher mags/dialing in sniper style. Quote Link to post
Craig Fosse 286 Posted February 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 I only hunt up to 40 yards especially other getting back into it so searing tomorrow at 30 yards I hold have itmon 25 then all ranges up to 30 yards I just leave it there ?? Quote Link to post
Craig Fosse 286 Posted February 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 And phantom yer mate I think mine is second I get that the mill dots change with mag but I just wanted o know if adjusting the ao to make it clearer changed your zero, basically if I aim at a target at 20 yards and I took two shots one with the ao set to 15 and one with it set at 25 technically the pellet should be on top of each other because adjusting the ao doesn't affect the zero ? Quote Link to post
gurtwurz 792 Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 Yep it should mate. Basically, the adjustable objective is a focus adjustment, so if you set the parallax at 25yds on a 9x zoom you'll find that everything nearer than 20 yds will be blurred, getting more blurred the nearer to you your target is, which is where you may want to use it to sharpen the picture and give yourself a rough idea of what range it is. And the same for anything 30-35 yds onwards, again the further from your zero the more blurred it'll be so by adjusting it you'll be able to get a rough idea of how far away it is and a clearer sight picture. The ao itself won't change your zero or where your aim point on the reticle at that mag is. Cheers, wurz 1 Quote Link to post
Craig Fosse 286 Posted February 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 Lol cheers got there in the end, thanks for the input chaps ! Unfortunately being probably the not airgun hunter in jersey I'm a bit out in the woods, this p,ace has helped me loads to answer the questions I can't 1 Quote Link to post
Craig Fosse 286 Posted February 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 Only* Quote Link to post
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