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No Mole ,mole Trap


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The French pro's use virtually nothing else. I have tried them, but revert to Talpex or Duffus as a first resort.

 

The advantages are they are very cheap and can be set and totally hidden from any prying or thieving eyes. Ideal for golf courses or playing fields and also under patios, sheds, etc. In my limited experience they are reliable killers trapping the mole just behind the shoulders.

 

There are disadvantages. You have to link the trigger hoop to the main prongs using chain or string or you will lose them. Replacements are available. You have to set them in pairs and peg the traps down to ensure that the trigger moves and not the trap. And to stop any moles that don't die instantly from dragging them down the tunnel.

 

When you see a French pro' using them he will take out far more soil than we would with our traps. They tend to lift a clod out in one piece using a standard sized spade. Then they clear the tunnel and place the prongs in before staking the trap using welding rod or a wire tent peg. Once the traps have been set they replace the whole clod. How do they know if mole is trapped? Many use dogs to indicate the traps that have moles in them. Funnily enough, my own spaniel automatically does this with my traps. If she didn't I would have to lift the clod out to check each trap.

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The French pro's use virtually nothing else. I have tried them, but revert to Talpex or Duffus as a first resort.

 

The advantages are they are very cheap and can be set and totally hidden from any prying or thieving eyes. Ideal for golf courses or playing fields and also under patios, sheds, etc. In my limited experience they are reliable killers trapping the mole just behind the shoulders.

 

There are disadvantages. You have to link the trigger hoop to the main prongs using chain or string or you will lose them. Replacements are available. You have to set them in pairs and peg the traps down to ensure that the trigger moves and not the trap. And to stop any moles that don't die instantly from dragging them down the tunnel.

 

When you see a French pro' using them he will take out far more soil than we would with our traps. They tend to lift a clod out in one piece using a standard sized spade. Then they clear the tunnel and place the prongs in before staking the trap using welding rod or a wire tent peg. Once the traps have been set they replace the whole clod. How do they know if mole is trapped? Many use dogs to indicate the traps that have moles in them. Funnily enough, my own spaniel automatically does this with my traps. If she didn't I would have to lift the clod out to check each trap.

I haven't used them but I have seen a YouTube video with them. From what you are saying there is potentially a little more to think about but it sounds quite straightforward when you know what you are doing.

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I like them for run ends,they are good but time consuming as with the tunnel traps you can walk along and check them, with the nomol you have to get down and check them, I carry a few all the time they are good traps, but the tunnel traps are more productive from a time point of veiw in my opinion,

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I'm struggling to see any advantage over a Duffus trap.

 

You need two per run, they take longer to set, longer to check, and cost more to buy.

 

Can someone tell me why you would want to use them? Or am I missing something?

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I'm struggling to see any advantage over a Duffus trap.

 

You need two per run, they take longer to set, longer to check, and cost more to buy.

 

Can someone tell me why you would want to use them? Or am I missing something?

 

Matt,

they are cheaper than Duffus traps. Around one Euro each, two Euros per pair. Flatpack traps are more than that.

 

In surface runs they can be set very quickly. It is the deep runs that take the time to sort.

 

The biggest advantage is that you can totally bury them leaving no trace of a trap having been set and no chance of stock putting their feet on a trap. As I said before, I have used them and will still use them. But my first choice would always be a Talpex or Duffus for efficiency. The prong type trap is best saved for under patios or runs next to concrete paths where you can't get a conventional trap to bed down properly.

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I'm struggling to see any advantage over a Duffus trap.

 

You need two per run, they take longer to set, longer to check, and cost more to buy.

 

Can someone tell me why you would want to use them? Or am I missing something?

 

Matt,

they are cheaper than Duffus traps. Around one Euro each, two Euros per pair. Flatpack traps are more than that.

 

In surface runs they can be set very quickly. It is the deep runs that take the time to sort.

 

The biggest advantage is that you can totally bury them leaving no trace of a trap having been set and no chance of stock putting their feet on a trap. As I said before, I have used them and will still use them. But my first choice would always be a Talpex or Duffus for efficiency. The prong type trap is best saved for under patios or runs next to concrete paths where you can't get a conventional trap to bed down properly.

 

Interesting. Thanks for that.

 

The one's that I've seen advertised in the UK are considerably more than one or two euros each.......

 

In all the years that I've been catching moles I've never come across a run that can't be trapped with a Duffus. Ok, sometimes you have to find a better run, but I've used them against patios and concrete paths and had reasonable success by putting them in at an angle.

 

I'm a bit of an old stick in the mud really. I use Duffus traps exclusively, although I have to admit that John Keswick off here did get me 'flirting' with some Talpa traps a few months ago. I can't imagine a time when I open up a mole run and then scratch my head wondering which of the half a dozen different types of trap I'm going to use in that particular run.

 

I think that for the time being I'll stick to what I know works for me; unless I see a compelling reason to change.....

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I'm struggling to see any advantage over a Duffus trap.

 

You need two per run, they take longer to set, longer to check, and cost more to buy.

 

Can someone tell me why you would want to use them? Or am I missing something?

No you are not missing anything,for my money they are no better,than the tunnel / duffus trap and if you dont get the trigger disc the right distance from the jaw end, the mole gets caught too far back and turns around in the trap to face the other way, and the trap becomes hard to remove,but do they catch yes they do and well,once you are proficient with them,like I say I use them in run ends, or if I dig into a three way run, I will use the tunnel trap in the straightest part and put one of them up the third run and it works well, or if I get a mole thats filling traps some times they will end the problem quickly,as the mole has no metal to walk over as the jaws sit tight to the sides of the run,they are another tool thats all the bulk of moles I catch are in tunnel traps,with the odd one in talpex,they are far easier to check,
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Guest clairian09

use them in run ends! surley you should be putting traps in main tunnels along fence lines etc not in amongst the mole hills where you dont get a good tunnel?

or am I doing something wrong?

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you can catch a mole anywhere in its tunnel system,its just some places are better and more consistent than others

spot on, :thumbs: Some times you find the run end, and rather than ignore it I put a nomol in thats all, just my way I am not perfect by no means but it works,my old man and a local farmer taught me where I grew up,I did it for a fare few yrs then stopped,I re started about five yrs ago,and all they taught me still work's I dont advertise its all by word of mouth, and I have plenty to do,
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