disschord 0 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 Hi what range would you zero your air rifle if it was shooting average 570fps with a 16grain .22. I use the rifle for pigeon rabbit squirrel. In the past u have zeroed at 25 yards but I struggle with shots over 30 yards and wondered if I would be better off zeroing further out. Quote Link to post
AirgunGuy 362 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 30 yards as good as anythin :-) Quote Link to post
jonnyboy3 0 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 When i used to own a 22 i used to zero mine at 25 meters as i didn't have to worry about hold under Quote Link to post
zini 1,939 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 (edited) Edited Your optimum, zero range is 26 yards if you are using medium mounts. 28 yards if your using high mounts. Edited December 27, 2012 by zini 1 Quote Link to post
villaman 9,983 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 Hi Si I thought it would be the other way round Quote Link to post
pianoman 3,587 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 (edited) Without knowledge of your rifle type or scope reticle you are using disschord, the general impression of an answer is 30 metres (about 28 yards) is the optimum. But try varying your scope's Mag power over a series of targets to get some clear idea what your pellet's trajectory arc is at 570 FPS up to and beyond 30Ms/28Ys. ranges. It's the height of the reticle above the bore-center of your barrel, as set by the mounts Villaman. Lower the mounts and you get your reticle closer to the bore-center of your rifle and that gives you a clear pattern of what your pellet's trajectory is doing over a series of target ranges. That's why I prefer 40mm scopes for hunting with my spring rifles. They get the reticle closer to the bore-center and help make very accurate combos with accurate rifles. But that's more a personal choice, not a Holy rule! You need to bear in mind you will be likely to be shooting at a rabbit's head or whatever target at varying ranges on your permission or HFT course. So your rangefinding has to be as accurate as you can make it, coupled with how well you know what your pellet's trajectory arc over those distances are. So you need to set up your scope magnification and zero it at a range which gives you the best overall impression of what the pellet is doing. With my HW77 .22 I use a Simmons Whitetail Classic 4.5-14x40mm scope with a 30/30 reticle and set on low mounts, I set the scope on 6xmag and zero the crosshairs at 30 metres. This gives me 40 metres hold over on the point of thick to thin below centre. And 20 metres on the point of thick-to-thin above centre. After that it's simple adjustment but, as I said, range estimation has to be as accurate as you can be with it. If you are using a mildot scope try shooting from a zero of 25 metres then see where the shot falls on your dots on settings around 4x to 8x mag. A lot of guys shoot on max magnification with their scopes, like 16x, 18x or whatever. But you will find greater accuracy with your rifle and scope if you spend time watching how your pellet trajectory performs from all settings on your scope. I find 6xmag at 30metres is a very accurate and very useful hunting setting for .22 pellets at the trajectory by the vellocity you've stated. You'll soon found out what is the optimum for you this way. Pianoman Edited December 27, 2012 by pianoman 2 Quote Link to post
Acuspell 329 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 Have you tried slightly lighter pellet? 28 yards is what I have mine set to, using either Accupell (14.3ns) or Defiants (14gn - awesome long range grouping too!) The slightly lighter pellet will fly a little faster and a little flatter, and you won't lose anything on the impact. Not so you would notice - I wouldn't want to be down range if either of them! However, this is only any good if your rifle likes them. Quote Link to post
zini 1,939 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 Hi Si I thought it would be the other way round Hi VM, You are correct buddy, well spotted mate. I've just seen my mistake and edited it to the correct figures. As Pianoman says though Disschord, I would always advise on keeping the scope centre as close to the barrel centre as possible. This gives you a better chance of hitting targets from the rifle muzzle to your zero range without worrying too much about mildots. This really depends on your scopes objective lens size though mate. To keep within an inch kill zone but extend your point blank range past 30 yards you really need to use a lighter pellet Disschord or learn to use holdover. This is where .22 calibre struggles and .177 excels. Si. Quote Link to post
ghillies 209 Posted December 28, 2012 Report Share Posted December 28, 2012 Hi Si I thought it would be the other way round Hi VM, You are correct buddy, well spotted mate. I've just seen my mistake and edited it to the correct figures. As Pianoman says though Disschord, I would always advise on keeping the scope centre as close to the barrel centre as possible. This gives you a better chance of hitting targets from the rifle muzzle to your zero range without worrying too much about mildots. This really depends on your scopes objective lens size though mate. To keep within an inch kill zone but extend your point blank range past 30 yards you really need to use a lighter pellet Disschord or learn to use holdover. This is where .22 calibre struggles and .177 excels. Si. something i've notised over the years is the first gun you learn seems 'easy' when you get the hang of it, then if you change caliber the other seems harder because its new, but thats for the beginning faize of the ten year curve...could just be me though. Quote Link to post
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