Gaz_1989 9,539 Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 Right, yesterday i was picking everyones brains about drainage. Sorted this out, spoken to the water board and I can crack on, nothing wrong with tapping into the main sewers as long as pipework is on my property, there is a inline trap used (due to the distance im travelling) and its connected and signed off by a qualified plumber. I will be running it all in myself, my mate will just check it and sign it off. Next... Im THINKING about having 3 x Brick walls built, i was going to have all Galv panels but im thinking that if i can afford it then i will have the back wall and 2 sides out of concrete blocks (rendered) and then galv panels to divide the 3 x Kennels and on the fronts. This will not only look better but give alot of protection from the elements i think. The back wall will be 5m x 1.8m and the sides will be 2m x 1.8 m. This will require 170 of the 440mm x 215mm x 100mm blocks at £1 a block so £170 roughly. To do the back and sides with galv panels would cost about £270. Does anyone have an APPROXIMATE idea of what a builder would charge to build these 3 sides onto a concrete base? Also is this likely to require planning permission? 5m x 2m kennel block, 1.8m high with 3 x concrete sides and a galvanised sheet roof? Thanks for any advice, Gaz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malt 379 Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 Are blocks £1 each these days? Last time I bought a load they were only 40 or 50p each.. Builders rates vary everywhere so you might be better off phoning round local and getting a few quotes. On big jobs they usually charge by the block, but on a smaller job like that they might want paying on the time it will take them. It wouldn't take a brickie a day in total to build that lot so it shouldn't cost the earth.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gaz_1989 9,539 Posted October 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 Less than a day? Ok thanks thats good to know! Cheapest ive found them is £1.04 a block but of course i will shop around ;-) Cheers Gaz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gaz_1989 9,539 Posted October 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 Garages, and other ancillary outbuildings to be used for a purpose incidental to the enjoyment of the dwellinghouse can be built in your garden, without the need to apply for planning permission subject to the following limits and conditions; It is not sited on land forward of a wall forming the principal elevation. The building is single storey with maximum eaves height of 2.5 metres and maximum overall height of four metres with a dual pitched roof or three metres for any other roof. Maximum height of 2.5 metres in the case of a building, enclosure or container within two metres of the garden boundary. No verandas, balconies or raised platforms. No more than half the area of land around the ‘original house’* would be covered by additions or other buildings. Within a conservation area it is not sited to the side of the house. Within the curtilage of a listed building it will require planning permission. *The term ‘original house’ means the house as it was first built or as it stood on 1st July 1948 (if it was built before that date). Please see the advice contained under the heading ‘Conservatories and Extensions’ if the garage is to be attached to your house. Building Regulations If you want to put up small detached buildings such as a garden shed or summerhouse in your garden, building regulations will not normally apply if the floor area of the building is less than 15 square metres and contains no sleeping accommodation. If the floor area of the building is between 15 square metres and 30 square metres, you will not normally be required to apply for building regulations providing the building contains no sleeping accommodation and is either at least one metre from any boundary or is constructed of substantially non-combustible materials. It seems that i DO NOT need planning permission. Something else ticked off the list :-) 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chid 6,615 Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 Gaz price up using 6" block It's hard keeping water out of 4" block even when it's rendered , so am told by a building friend 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malt 379 Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 Gaz price up using 6" block It's hard keeping water out of 4" block even when it's rendered , so am told by a building friend How come houses are waterproof then Chid? A good scratch coat and top coat of render with added waterproofer and then painted with exterior masonry paint will keep the water out.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gaz_1989 9,539 Posted October 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 Okay thanks lads. Ive just got a number off a mate for a good builder who will do me a good price. Hes coming round tonight to look at the job. Ive started drainage channel this morning. This is something like what i want... Block on 3 sides, 5cm galvanised bar panels to split the runs, same panels on the front but obviously with doors. Guttering and drainage channel connected to mains as shown. Water supply to tap on side of kennel. Galvanised corrugated sheet roof. What do people think of the sizing? 2m x 1m for terrier and 2m x 2m for a lurcher? Is this a bit on the tight side or more than enough? Cheers Gaz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stewie 3,387 Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 Gaz price up using 6" block It's hard keeping water out of 4" block even when it's rendered , so am told by a building friend How come houses are waterproof then Chid? A good scratch coat and top coat of render with added waterproofer and then painted with exterior masonry paint will keep the water out.. because theres an outer skin of bricks and a layer of insulation............ 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malt 379 Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 Gaz price up using 6" block It's hard keeping water out of 4" block even when it's rendered , so am told by a building friend How come houses are waterproof then Chid? A good scratch coat and top coat of render with added waterproofer and then painted with exterior masonry paint will keep the water out.. because theres an outer skin of bricks and a layer of insulation............ That helps, but if a job's done properly, the only water in a cavity should be condensation from the inside and it should exit at the bottom via the weep vents. If the outside wall isn't waterproof, the water will bridge across the wall ties and cause damp on the interior walls. The insulation is there to stop heat loss, it isn't there for protection against water ingress.. Stick to the scrap and leave the smart arsed comments to those of us who have actually worked in the building trade... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
moonlighter 1,164 Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 It might take more than a day, as there is a limit to how high they can build in one day, as the weight of the bricks pushes out the wet cement at the bottom. Again get a builder to give you a price. Good luck with your project mate. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stewie 3,387 Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 Gaz price up using 6" block It's hard keeping water out of 4" block even when it's rendered , so am told by a building friend How come houses are waterproof then Chid? A good scratch coat and top coat of render with added waterproofer and then painted with exterior masonry paint will keep the water out.. because theres an outer skin of bricks and a layer of insulation............ That helps, but if a job's done properly, the only water in a cavity should be condensation from the inside and it should exit at the bottom via the weep vents. If the outside wall isn't waterproof, the water will bridge across the wall ties and cause damp on the interior walls. The insulation is there to stop heat loss, it isn't there for protection against water ingress.. Stick to the scrap and leave the smart arsed comments to those of us who have actually worked in the building trade... true mate but if its a single skin of blocks where will the cavity be.......... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stewie 3,387 Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 Gaz price up using 6" block It's hard keeping water out of 4" block even when it's rendered , so am told by a building friend How come houses are waterproof then Chid? A good scratch coat and top coat of render with added waterproofer and then painted with exterior masonry paint will keep the water out.. because theres an outer skin of bricks and a layer of insulation............ That helps, but if a job's done properly, the only water in a cavity should be condensation from the inside and it should exit at the bottom via the weep vents. If the outside wall isn't waterproof, the water will bridge across the wall ties and cause damp on the interior walls. The insulation is there to stop heat loss, it isn't there for protection against water ingress.. Stick to the scrap and leave the smart arsed comments to those of us who have actually worked in the building trade... true mate but if its a single skin of blocks where will the cavity be.......... nice edit malt............ "Don't matter. If a job's done properly, the only water in a cavity should be condensation from the inside and it should exit at the bottom via the weep vents. If the outside wall isn't waterproof, the water will bridge across the wall ties and cause damp on the interior walls. The insulation is there to stop heat loss, it isn't there for protection against water ingress.. Stick to the scrap and leave the smart arsed comments to those of us who have actually worked in the building trade... " Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malt 379 Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 It might take more than a day, as there is a limit to how high they can build in one day, as the weight of the bricks pushes out the wet cement at the bottom. Again get a builder to give you a price. Good luck with your project mate. That's why I said a day in total. A good blocky could lay 170 blocks before dinner time but as you say you can only go up about 5 courses at a time before they have to stop.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gaz_1989 9,539 Posted October 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 It might take more than a day, as there is a limit to how high they can build in one day, as the weight of the bricks pushes out the wet cement at the bottom. Again get a builder to give you a price. Good luck with your project mate. Thanks mate. Im gonna put some progress pictures up when we are halfway there. Gaz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malt 379 Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 Gaz price up using 6" block It's hard keeping water out of 4" block even when it's rendered , so am told by a building friend How come houses are waterproof then Chid? A good scratch coat and top coat of render with added waterproofer and then painted with exterior masonry paint will keep the water out.. because theres an outer skin of bricks and a layer of insulation............ That helps, but if a job's done properly, the only water in a cavity should be condensation from the inside and it should exit at the bottom via the weep vents. If the outside wall isn't waterproof, the water will bridge across the wall ties and cause damp on the interior walls. The insulation is there to stop heat loss, it isn't there for protection against water ingress.. Stick to the scrap and leave the smart arsed comments to those of us who have actually worked in the building trade... true mate but if its a single skin of blocks where will the cavity be.......... nice edit malt............ "Don't matter. If a job's done properly, the only water in a cavity should be condensation from the inside and it should exit at the bottom via the weep vents. If the outside wall isn't waterproof, the water will bridge across the wall ties and cause damp on the interior walls. The insulation is there to stop heat loss, it isn't there for protection against water ingress.. Stick to the scrap and leave the smart arsed comments to those of us who have actually worked in the building trade... " Twat.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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