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every week at my forge and workshop(updated)


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ok guys busy week here for me again . lst week mas production this week finnished knives of a slightly higher calibre ! first job of the week socks sent this knife for a refurb . bit of elbow g

Great work Matt, and knives that will last a lifetime with care. Remember lads this is Matts living, not a hobby. Try not to knock him down on price, the knives / blades are worth every penny, and m

boar knife not a true "how to" but just a little write up following the construction of a knife from a file to a "boar knife" i had a similar knife planned but after a pm from a hunting life member

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Thanks gin .

I have 4 more of the little utility stag handle blades I will be grinding and fitting handles to today , if I'm good the leather will be done tomorrow so late tomorrow early Wednesday there will be some more . I think I have enough materials to make a couple with plain carbon blades to ..

All the best , Matt

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i thought i better use this section as its intended and show some picks of things being made .

very brief pics really but its hard to do it all solo with one hand (wait for it)

ok i made 3 axe heads but 2 where scrap so ended up with one good one iv killed of the pics of the scrap so there might not be as much info in the pics but i will explain as i go ..

 

materials for this small light bearded axe are mild steel for the socket and substraight and high carbon spring steel , the steel is reclaimed leaf spring from a mitsubishi L200 pick up . spring steel is nice because it more flexable and wear risistant than a standard tool steel , which is pretty important in the cutting edge of an axe .

 

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mild steel forged over to make a sandwich of steels .

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time to get it hot , welding temp is reallu hot , i cant remember how hot any more as i judge by the colour of the steel and the way the flux moves on the surface. wikipidia will hace the anser for forge welding temp of ferrous to non ferrous steel im sure (if you care)

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the above pic is deceptive , that pic is tyaken after the first course of welding blows , so cooled dramaicaly from where it would be to weld\fuse to become one .

3 more welding courses follow this one , thats light over l;apping blows with a 2lbs hammer this forces out scale and inperfection and gently brings the steels togeather to be come one .

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now one piece of steel so i can start forging to shape a little , the idea here is to shape to 65%-75% then grind to final shape.

 

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ok now i have to keep the socket open as i go , so used this old mandril , its bloody old and i have to grind about 30 years worth of surface rust off it before using it . so im forging the shape and keeping the socket right as i go , im telling you its a bitch to do !!

 

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thats all i have for pics im afraid on this one ...

 

 

looks shit , right ?

 

turned out great tho :)

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there is still some "evidance of construction" on the steel , some hammer marks , a little blistering from the welding , and the line where mild steel over lapped the spring steel , personaly i love it and wouldnt change it .

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next some pattern welded steel for the little batch of utility knives .

its made of 15n20 and o1 tool steel . and i went for 150 layers in total .....

 

now just have a think about it , each layer of the original billet is enough for one knife . so its waistfull thing to make , i could have made 25 knives for the 4 blades i got !!! madness really.

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in the middle is the original billet , ignore the big old knife and axe , the axe is scrap and the big knife is a work in progress so be patient:)

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the billet welded up and drawn out , this will be cut and stacked x3

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that makes 75 layers , once welded again i patern the steel (the second sign of waisting steel after all the scale )as the grooves are from removing metal to expose layers with a grinder.

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draw that out into a bar , cut it in half weld it up. 150 layers i reckon ? no pics sorry ....

 

then again i cut a patern into the steel .

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draw that out and for a tang .

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i for a tang then hot cut the blade section on an angle for beval forging , this curves the blade up as one side is thinner .

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85% to finnished shape . surface ground to see pattern quality .

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turned out nice ???

ps i lost one of the 5 blanks as it was flawed so more scrap !!!!

all that work and steel for 4 under 2.5" blades ....

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    • By GruffaloGriff
      This blade is made from motorbike chain hand forged on to a leaf spring core. I have experimented a few times with chain Damascus but this is the cleanest weld yet, not perfect but it has character. Very hard to eliminate all the voids in the chain beating it by hand...even though i spent probably half a day hammering away on it.... I will make a press one day.
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