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every week at my forge and workshop(updated)


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ok guys busy week here for me again . lst week mas production this week finnished knives of a slightly higher calibre ! first job of the week socks sent this knife for a refurb . bit of elbow g

Great work Matt, and knives that will last a lifetime with care. Remember lads this is Matts living, not a hobby. Try not to knock him down on price, the knives / blades are worth every penny, and m

boar knife not a true "how to" but just a little write up following the construction of a knife from a file to a "boar knife" i had a similar knife planned but after a pm from a hunting life member

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Here is a little gutting knive Ive made ,P1000474_zpsafcaaf40.jpg It needs metal polishing more ,, To be too the standards of some of the knives on here I only paid for the glue on this knive using unwanted or use metals,I had to grind the blade holes has it was to hard to drill or mill.. sorry if its on wrong post ,I just wanted advice on polishing of metals ..

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Thanks gin .

Mickey polishing that could be really hard now the handles are fitted !

But it could be done , I would wrap the handle in denim and clamp it in a vice that is well secured . Then start with 120grit sand paper with a hard backing , like a file . And work in one direction the hole blade . Aply pressure and get the hole thing flat . I can't stress enough how you really need to keep the direction you work exactly the same . Next move to 240 grit do exactly the same thing but in a totally new direction same rules be strict get it right. . Then move to 400 grit , new direction . It's at this stage you will see any pitting or course scratches , keep going with the 400 grit don't stop even if there it a lot of scratches . When you have done that the bad areas will really stand out so go back over them with 120 untill happy then back to 240 then 400 again . I know it sound crap having to repeat your self undoing hard work but your not each course of papers improves the metal surface ready for the higher grits , and once you have if very flat you will fly through the higher grits and establish the mirror Finnish much faster . Anyway lets say you've gone right through to 400 and its perfect go to 600 in a new direction again and keep going right through to 2000 grit , but from 600 grit do the hole side in sharp dry paper them do it again with the same paper only wet . A little washing up liquid in the water helps a lot with clogging and makes sure the water spreads . New paper new direction so on and so on , then if you have a buffer use green crome polishing compound on a stitched mop , then I unstitched cotton mop with green compound . Then a felt stitched mop with white compound .

That's it perfect mirror finish . If you do your cutting edge to it will be sharper than any knife you have owned before !!!

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Thanks gin .

Mickey polishing that could be really hard now the handles are fitted !

But it could be done , I would wrap the handle in denim and clamp it in a vice that is well secured . Then start with 120grit sand paper with a hard backing , like a file . And work in one direction the hole blade . Aply pressure and get the hole thing flat . I can't stress enough how you really need to keep the direction you work exactly the same . Next move to 240 grit do exactly the same thing but in a totally new direction same rules be strict get it right. . Then move to 400 grit , new direction . It's at this stage you will see any pitting or course scratches , keep going with the 400 grit don't stop even if there it a lot of scratches . When you have done that the bad areas will really stand out so go back over them with 120 untill happy then back to 240 then 400 again . I know it sound crap having to repeat your self undoing hard work but your not each course of papers improves the metal surface ready for the higher grits , and once you have if very flat you will fly through the higher grits and establish the mirror Finnish much faster . Anyway lets say you've gone right through to 400 and its perfect go to 600 in a new direction again and keep going right through to 2000 grit , but from 600 grit do the hole side in sharp dry paper them do it again with the same paper only wet . A little washing up liquid in the water helps a lot with clogging and makes sure the water spreads . New paper new direction so on and so on , then if you have a buffer use green crome polishing compound on a stitched mop , then I unstitched cotton mop with green compound . Then a felt stitched mop with white compound .

That's it perfect mirror finish . If you do your cutting edge to it will be sharper than any knife you have owned before !!!

Cheers for info and your time ,,Knew I should have polished blade before I fitted handles,But anything beats watching soaps ;)

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Thats interesting what you say Matt, about buffing the cutting edge.

I took a blunt opinel to my mates to borrow his "proper" water stones, but they were not needed. He just ran the blade edge under a buffing wheel, and it was RAZOR sharp. I was amazed at how sharp it was and all that was needed was a buffing wheel.

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Yeah it's a magic trick, the buffer !!!! american makers dont like it they like to have a blade with microscopic serated blades , fresh of the grinder or whet stone . i duno why . i duno if folks know this but a steel you a butcher or chef might use is only really polishing a thou of blade beval , you really dont want course steels they do more harm than good !



Here's part two guys

http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?feature=youtube_gdata_player&v=fqgSrJIpWcY&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DfqgSrJIpWcY%26feature%3Dyoutube_gdata_player&gl=GB

 

i hope its worth the effort ? i know its more words than pics or video but its impossible to film stuff and do it on an iphone , so its more a video book artilce .

i like it, i think it puts across the work involved .

the next bit might be more intresting as it will show you guys that buy blanks or want to handle knives how i do it , which is probably different to everyone else i dont know ? its just the way i have diveloped it .

is the music better redpat1 ??

 

 

 

one of the little gutters has come back up for sale nobodys fault but mine , still £25 posted . its this one .2013_012320130011.jpg2013_012320130010.jpg

 

alsothis bad boy 2013_012520002.jpg2013_012520005.jpg

 

 

got some blanks later fellas the ones of the video , fieldcrafter mk11xl which is 1/8th bigger and fieldcrafter bantam 1/4 smaller .

plus the new 3" drop point hunter . they will all be off to laser cutting in the next few months .

all the best , matt

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Good vid Matt, looking forward to part 3. The music was much better, definately dont mind a bit of Ian Brown. You could also have gone for Cuts both ways by Gloria Estefan or anything by the Cutting Crew.lol.

 

Pat

Edited by redpat1
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its good to hear it was worth it ha ha

 

 

ok gents heres a few blanks , im gonna do um cheap because i know tings are tight !!

all made from o1 tools steel , there all heat treated ground etc ready to fit handles on .

 

 

first up is the mk2 feildcrafters , as said above the xl is 1/8th bigger , and the bantam is 1/4 smaller .

2013_0205newbatch0005_zps462adec0.jpg

the middle blank is a mk1 and not for sale just for referance .

2013_0205newbatch0004_zpse7e41739.jpg

iv got pretty big hands and im more than happy to use one of these i can hold it with 3 or 4 fingers . but the mrs its a perfect fit for her hole fist !!

2013_0205newbatch0006_zps21ba1cd0.jpg2013_0205newbatch0007_zps0217987b.jpg

2013_0205newbatch0009_zps92224b70.jpg2013_0205newbatch0008_zps553b1c6c.jpg

and thats the xl pretty nice chunky knife !!

xl £27 posted

bantam£20 posted all recorded first class royal mail

 

 

then i wanted to work on a 3" bladed knife that was no weedy , a sold chunky knife that can do it all but with a blade that is legal or non offencive .

so here it is the 3"drop point hunter .

2013_0205newbatch0001_zpsbfd5e64f.jpg2013_0205newbatch0003_zps2a3b8554.jpg2013_0205newbatch0002_zps9ef1bb16.jpg

 

also £27 posted ..

more in the pipe line guys !!

all the best , matt

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