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Scope working loose on a springer?


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Just wandering if its common or not?

 

Ive got a hatsan mod 60, which Ive only fired about 700 or so rounds through at the range. My last trip was getting really frustrating with having to re zero the scope every 20 shots or so. Just before I was due to go home I realised one of the top clamp alan bolts was missing and all the rest were really loose or about to fall out. I found the missing bolt on the floor and done them all up good and tight, what I wasnt sure about was if this is a likelly effect of the springers recoil and something needing checking regularly or if the shop didnt tighten up the bolts enough when I bought the gun recently?

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Check all your bolts are tight regularly and shouldn't have a problem, I always keep some Allen keys in my gun bag should something come lose

 

OK cool,

 

As long as I know its regular maintenance I can keep on top of it, luckily I had my alan keys with me at the time, but didnt realise I would need to check it over regularly. :icon_redface:

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Make sure you have put the mounts on the right way round, also ensure you have put the arrestor pin in the hole in the top of the action, then the scope will not move. I have a 60S gas ram with a scope on it, mine has not moved at all since it was put on!

Edited by secretagentmole
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There is a another, if drastic alternative way to cure your scope-blues....this is purely a suggestion....You could always fix the scope in the front mount with Araldite epoxy cement....

 

I'm not joking. It may be a drastic solution, but, it holds the scope secure and firm against all manner of heavy spring recoil issues.

 

Assuming your scope needs no further adjustment other than mounting it in the mounts and rings.....

 

1. Mount the scope and level it perfectly to the action and your eye-relief. It must be absolutely mounted perfect because there is no going back once this is done. Tighten up the rear scopemount to keep the scope in perfect position.

 

2. Mark with a pencil around the front mount, on the scope tube, exactly where it is to be cemented. Note and mark exactly where the rear mount is positioned or which backstud arrestor hole you prefer to set on.

 

3. Take the scope off the rifle and remove the front mount. Then where you have your drawn marks, score the surface of the scopetube and inner surface of the mount with a file or anything that will gauge the metal deep enough to make a series of cut grooves for the cement to "key" into.

 

4. Mix the epoxy cement. Re-set the front mount post on the marked position of the scoperail. Apply mixed cement to scope and mounts.

 

5. Set the scope to the rifle by the rear mount and clamp. Set the top ring of the front mount and clamp as normal. The cement excess will oose out but this can be easily cleaned off with a wet/damp cloth. Take the whole scope and mount assembly off the rifle and clean off all trace of excess cement. Be absolutely careful to avoid it getting anywhere else.

 

Remount your scope and leave to set for 16 hours.

 

Now you may pull your hair out at the thought of doing this. But I have actually done this successfully for my Simmons Whitetail Classic scope mounted to my FAC HW80.

 

After over 12 years of continual use, the scope is working absolutely fine, it isn't severely clamped under pressure, yet cannot move under the hefty recoil this rifle dishes out and it holds its zero with absolute precision. It means this scope is perfectly set to this rifle and my eye. Having the rear mount clamped as normal allows the scope to "flex" naturally under recoil and for me to make any sliding adjustment I might need for fine tuning eye relief position as I grow older.

 

There is a downside.

You may find the scope will not transfer to every other air rifle you might have. If there is a slight difference in scoperail width between the rifles. This will cause the scope to cant slightly. And it could make the scope difficult to re-sell if you need to.

 

There may be further issues or problems with this method. But I've not yet encountered them.

 

Like I said. It may sound drastic a measure to take. And I make it only as a suggestion that may work for you. But, from my experience of my own rifle and scope, that's better than the headaches of canting and scope-creep issues to correct every time I go shooting with it.

 

And needles to say. My scope and rifle are never going to be up for sale.

 

Pianoman.

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You're right Skot, generally there isn't usually a problem. But, even with Sportsmatch, ( I refuse to use anything else, by the way) a sharp crack of heavy recoil from a powerful spring can still shift the scope off true. And without an arrestor of some sort. it will creep back mounts and all.

 

This is how I solve my scope issues and it works for me. So might work for our friend here.

 

Regards.

 

Pianoman

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If you don't want to use araldite (which I may do on the pro sport now, thanks for that simon) then some double sided sticky tape on each mount wil do the job nicely, and also stops you from being able to over tighten the mounts and crimping the scopes saddle. Plenty of thread lock, or the wife's expensive nail varnish on all bolts and the jobs a good un. I prefer a one piece mount on a springer, and anything less than sportsmatch is a waste of your money in the long run, in my book.

 

Cheers, wurz

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