The danger of a dog that bites

[skycat 6,173]

Never underestimate the power of food when training to reward a behaviour. Food is a useful tool to get the dog's attention and reward it for doing what you want; you should reward immediately the dog sits, but as time goes on and the sit is instant, you withhold the food for a second longer, then longer, and make the dog wait a little bit longer each time before you reward it. The dog must sit still and not jump up at all. Take it very slowly at first, especially if you have never trained the dog to control itself like this. Shouting down at it and getting the result you want is not winning the battle if the dog is shaking and desperately wanting to get up and do whatever. Success is when the dog sits or downs and is calm and relaxed in that position. You can make it calm and relaxed by using small food rewards of high value: tiny bit of cheese: pea sized. Be prepared to have a pocket full of treats, and reward each time the dog does what you want. In an especially stressful or exciting situation you can give several of these rewards to let the dog know it is doing really well. Praise in a calm voice at the same time, but the moment the dog leaves the sit you take control hard, with a sharp 'Ah!', followed by the sit command again. Remember, tiny steps, and practice in low excitement situations to begin with, gradually increasing the difficulty.

[WILF 46,684]

anyone wanna just tell me the main point??

 

yeh , i think she is trying to defend dogs that bite .? i think she talks crap. any dog that bites i think should be its last if kids are involved end off. even if its adult the trust as gone, so what good is it to.man .? humans 1st dogs 2nd .

 

What is your thoughts on a dog that is left with a child and the child, not knowing any better, pulls on the dog's tail or the dog has an injury and the child, by accident, catches the injury and the dog turns and bites? Is that the dog's fault for trying to shun the approach as fast as possible just as you would push someone away or lash an arm out as a reaction? Is it the child's fault who either does not know any better or is simply winding the dog and leaving the dog no option? Is it the owner's fault or the responsible adult at the time for allowing the situation to exist?

 

I am simply stating that there is going to be a reason why the dog bit in the first place.

 

Wrong gender by the way.

 

 

I skimmed through your essay and a line at the start had me baffled.....you said the article you write about was " Insulting to dogs"

 

Pardon!!

You can't insult a dog ..........because it's a dog!

 

The rest I am almost sure is just drivel......I don't really care about the reasons, if a dog bites someone other than if they are climbing over your fence to break in your shed then it should be shot....no ifs, no buts....gone!!

 

There is no excuse or reason to keep an animal of any sort that is or has been in any way dangerous to humans.

[WILF 46,684]

One more thing I will say is that certain type of dogs don't belong in social situations, they should just be taken to their work and back to their kennel.....it's up to the owner to recognise these types of dogs.

 

They don't belong in the park on walkers or in the house or walked to the shop....they just belong doing what they do.

 

On the subject of nipping, we are not talking about nipping....get bitten by a dog that means it and you will know there is a whole world of difference

[carp man 1 219]

f**k me when i got to the end off that i forgot what he was on about

[Moll. 1,770]

Ok seeing as this came up I have a slight glitch with my dog

Ive had running dogs all my life, been around since day I was born.

Currently the lurcher I have right now ( just turned 2) there a slight bit of bull in its make up.

Anyway he is an affectionate dog, always pleased to see folk,in fact gets a bit over excited. Now the problem is when he is on that excited state, and you try to force him into the kitchen say , the wee b*****d will face you up. Now I'm not one to lay into my charges, but he caught me in a foul mood one day, And as I tried to push him in the kitchen again he faced me up. So I belted him with my hand. The c**t showed his teeth , do he got slapped again still showing teeth .

Now like I say this is by no means a trait he shows any other time, in fact barring that he is close to one of the best lurchers I've owned. Now partly I blame the bull in him, as I have never had this problem with any other dog , I'll also take blame myself cause I do tend to let them away with more than most would . Mainly because I stay by myself. If I had kids here it would be a different ball game. Just wondering is this a trait with bull crosses ? Like I said never owned one before. Always gabbing your hands when you go to take him out and putting the lead on him or putting your shoes on . Now I don't want any f*****g smart comments like shoot it or get shot of it. So don't bother of that's all you have to add. Under Normal conditions, ie if it's just us in the house he obeys all commands, however someone comes in, and you try And curb his excited state, and he is clearly not happy.

 

The excitability is the bull Scot, they can drive you up the wall, Rudie here literally screams, whole body shakes, when he thinks he is going out. But the aggression is not imo. Even when really driven and worked up, they may go fixed eye and stone deaf, but never turn as you have described.

[stabba 10,745]

Never had a bullx as excitable as that Scott except when the game is on..a dog should be calm and sensible whilst in the house regardless of visitors and such. Infact a good house dog should be seen and not heard except when required imo. As for biting..a meaninful bite and id have no hesitation in havin the dog pts straight away unless it was an uninvited guest so to speak..just a little snippet...ive had plenty of visitors who when arrive are met by the minging shar-pei who has a quick fuss and thats it..as they leave they usually ask about the lurcher of the house(bullx)..i tell them yes she,s in the house then they look amazed..the friggin thing never leaves her chair lol..just how a house dog should be imo..atb stabba

[littlefish 585]

My dogs get put in crates when i have visitors. They like the crates.....that is where they get fed, they don't mind sitting in the crates, it is a positive experience......food comes when they wait in there. Much more pleasant for visitors and less stressful/exciting for the dogs. If I leave the living room door open, the dogs can see the visitors. If children come to visit, the living room door stays shut.

[hedz31 1,308]

Best terrier ive had was a biter if ye stood next to him pegged of at a dig he would grab ye leg and when ye broke through and lifted him he would try to grab ye funnily enough a few bred down from him were the same ive had the odd lurcher that was a biter but only other people never me

[scothunter 12,609]

He does calm down when folk come after 10 mins , it's my own fault really I should have put in the kitchen and shut the door from the start. However I'm gonna put a bit more time into sorting thst out.

 

I take in board what you said stabba and good points, but it's certainly no where best the stage of getting pts , it has never shown any aggression whatsover to anyone else ? Like I said very much the opposite. In fact he pisses folk of more for his constant licking at them.

He ain't bitten me, he has faced me up when I physically force him into the kitchen, only when folk are in. Also it's not an excuse, but he don't wear a collar in the house, so therefore Im literally shoving him by the arse. I guarantee you when I'm alone with that dog, he is obedient to a fault.

Maybe it had it to do with the fact I don't have people constantly coming and going. I certainly take on board what you Abd others have said though. I don't normally hit dogs, he is just one of them dogs that won't be hit maybe.

[bird 9,872]

He does calm down when folk come after 10 mins , it's my own fault really I should have put in the kitchen and shut the door from the start. However I'm gonna put a bit more time into sorting thst out.

 

I take in board what you said stabba and good points, but it's certainly no where best the stage of getting pts , it has never shown any aggression whatsover to anyone else ? Like I said very much the opposite. In fact he pisses folk of more for his constant licking at them.

He ain't bitten me, he has faced me up when I physically force him into the kitchen, only when folk are in. Also it's not an excuse, but he don't wear a collar in the house, so therefore Im literally shoving him by the arse. I guarantee you when I'm alone with that dog, he is obedient to a fault.

Maybe it had it to do with the fact I don't have people constantly coming and going. I certainly take on board what you Abd others have said though. I don't normally hit dogs, he is just one of them dogs that won't be hit maybe.

 

just read that, and i would keep a collar on him, so (if) you do have to grab him you can. If you want to do somthing, put the lead on him and put him in training mode. Ive had bullmastiffs big feckers trying to play up in the past , done as ive said either put them in the down , or took out side donr it there. Never let them on furniture, because it can make them think they are equal to you. Iknow lots of people do and dont get probs, but i dont let them chairs etc. Ive never had probs with none of my 3 bullxs that i had, all new there place. With any dog start as you mean to go on from (8 weeks - 18 months) be the boss. What type of dog you got .?

[scothunter 12,609]

His breeding was

3/4 grey 1/4 collie

3/4 grey 1/4 bull sire.

 

Looks like a well built grey tbh lol 25"

Was just thinking about that bird, the keeping of a collar on him. Think thst might work. Should have thought of that. Silly c**t I am lol

[bird 9,872]

His breeding was

3/4 grey 1/4 collie

3/4 grey 1/4 bull sire.

 

Looks like a well built grey tbh lol 25"

Was just thinking about that bird, the keeping of a collar on him. Think thst might work. Should have thought of that. Silly c**t I am lol

His breeding was

3/4 grey 1/4 collie

3/4 grey 1/4 bull sire.

 

Looks like a well built grey tbh lol 25"

Was just thinking about that bird, the keeping of a collar on him. Think thst might work. Should have thought of that. Silly c**t I am lol

well with the breeding which is most running dog, should not be to bad with the dominance thing, as most greys are easy going temps unless they see a cat or rabbit lol. just do as say with the collar+lead on him in the house , once he knows he as (got) to do it it will get eaiser .

[hutch6 550]

Also it's not an excuse, but he don't wear a collar in the house, so therefore Im literally shoving him by the arse. I guarantee you when I'm alone with that dog, he is obedient to a fault.

Maybe it had it to do with the fact I don't have people constantly coming and going. I certainly take on board what you Abd others have said though. I don't normally hit dogs, he is just one of them dogs that won't be hit maybe.

 

Regardles sof what you have done to the dog in past it is never tool late to start afresh with them and move on.

 

It becomes clearer that the dog doesn't know what to do when there are distractions about as you have stated that it is obedient when it is just you and the dog. No doubt the dog has associated the doorbell or a knock at the door with visitors, excitement and it is as major distraction. If the dog will sit or stay when it is just you in the house then you have a decent foundation, you just need to up the distraction stakes.

 

Get the dog in a sit or stay and walk over to your front door whilst facing the dog - the dog must not move. Walk back to the dog and reward it.

N.B When rewarding the dog with whatever you choose do not make a big fuss or get the dog excited or it will just wind it up. Rewards should be given calmly wether it is a pat on the head, a treat or just a "Good dog". Once the reward is given you should give the release command "OK" or whatever you choose so the dog knows that it has finished the task and there is no point asking a sitting dog to sit.

 

So you can get tot he door without the dog moving. Now get tot he dog and knock quietly on it just once whilst keeping an eye on the dog. If the dog moves you simply don't reward and get the dog to sit gain beofre repeating. It may take a while to get to the point where the dog realises that the knock means nothing at any point during this routine but be patient and allow the dog to work it out itself.

Sit the dog again and repeat the gentle knock a few times until the dog is rock solid.

 

Now you want to increase the volume of the single knock gradually and make sure the dog does not move until you have knocked at the door, returned to it, rewarded it and then released it.

 

Now you have a solid sit or stay at a single knock you then go back to gentle knocks but you do a double knock - always increase the distraction level gradually one loud knock to two loud knocks is jumping the gun. Build up the volume gradually again.

 

Then move to three knocks and build up to the point where you can knock at different rythmns as you would if you were knocking on someone's door.

 

If you have a door bell that folk use now is the time to use it. It may work a bit better if you can stuff kitchen roll inside the ringer box to muffle the sound a bit to begin with but if not just persevere with the full volume - you will need someone to help out with this who doesn't mind being on the other side of the door with a brew and just pressing the bell for you at intervals so you can go through the motions with the dog.

 

Once you can knock or ring the bell without the dog moving you can progress to moving the door handle. Then the knock/bell and open the door slightly, knock/bell open the door with nobody there, knock/bell someobeody there but silent, knock/bell somebody there and a quick "Hello" and then build from there but the dog must not move until you give the release command after rewarding.

 

I have done this with four or five dogs now and each time it takes a while but once the dog gets the idea the steps become quicker and quicker for the dog to grasp and you fly through the increased distraction levels as it becomes white noise to the dog. When I say that it's a bit like moving next to a busy railway line. For the first few days you can't help but notice the train noise but after a while you don't even notice them anymore as they just become background noise - white noise.

 

If you want though you can knock on the door, walk to the kitchn and call the dog, reward when it gets there and build it up so the dog associates having something nice in the kitchen when someone calls and then you just have to shut the door.

 

Good luck.

[stewie 3,387]

Also it's not an excuse, but he don't wear a collar in the house, so therefore Im literally shoving him by the arse. I guarantee you when I'm alone with that dog, he is obedient to a fault.

Maybe it had it to do with the fact I don't have people constantly coming and going. I certainly take on board what you Abd others have said though. I don't normally hit dogs, he is just one of them dogs that won't be hit maybe.

 

Regardles sof what you have done to the dog in past it is never tool late to start afresh with them and move on.

 

It becomes clearer that the dog doesn't know what to do when there are distractions about as you have stated that it is obedient when it is just you and the dog. No doubt the dog has associated the doorbell or a knock at the door with visitors, excitement and it is as major distraction. If the dog will sit or stay when it is just you in the house then you have a decent foundation, you just need to up the distraction stakes.

 

Get the dog in a sit or stay and walk over to your front door whilst facing the dog - the dog must not move. Walk back to the dog and reward it.

N.B When rewarding the dog with whatever you choose do not make a big fuss or get the dog excited or it will just wind it up. Rewards should be given calmly wether it is a pat on the head, a treat or just a "Good dog". Once the reward is given you should give the release command "OK" or whatever you choose so the dog knows that it has finished the task and there is no point asking a sitting dog to sit.

 

So you can get tot he door without the dog moving. Now get tot he dog and knock quietly on it just once whilst keeping an eye on the dog. If the dog moves you simply don't reward and get the dog to sit gain beofre repeating. It may take a while to get to the point where the dog realises that the knock means nothing at any point during this routine but be patient and allow the dog to work it out itself.

Sit the dog again and repeat the gentle knock a few times until the dog is rock solid.

 

Now you want to increase the volume of the single knock gradually and make sure the dog does not move until you have knocked at the door, returned to it, rewarded it and then released it.

 

Now you have a solid sit or stay at a single knock you then go back to gentle knocks but you do a double knock - always increase the distraction level gradually one loud knock to two loud knocks is jumping the gun. Build up the volume gradually again.

 

Then move to three knocks and build up to the point where you can knock at different rythmns as you would if you were knocking on someone's door.

 

If you have a door bell that folk use now is the time to use it. It may work a bit better if you can stuff kitchen roll inside the ringer box to muffle the sound a bit to begin with but if not just persevere with the full volume - you will need someone to help out with this who doesn't mind being on the other side of the door with a brew and just pressing the bell for you at intervals so you can go through the motions with the dog.

 

Once you can knock or ring the bell without the dog moving you can progress to moving the door handle. Then the knock/bell and open the door slightly, knock/bell open the door with nobody there, knock/bell someobeody there but silent, knock/bell somebody there and a quick "Hello" and then build from there but the dog must not move until you give the release command after rewarding.

 

I have done this with four or five dogs now and each time it takes a while but once the dog gets the idea the steps become quicker and quicker for the dog to grasp and you fly through the increased distraction levels as it becomes white noise to the dog. When I say that it's a bit like moving next to a busy railway line. For the first few days you can't help but notice the train noise but after a while you don't even notice them anymore as they just become background noise - white noise.

 

If you want though you can knock on the door, walk to the kitchn and call the dog, reward when it gets there and build it up so the dog associates having something nice in the kitchen when someone calls and then you just have to shut the door.

 

Good luck.

OR keep them in a kennel, like normal people do.....

[WILF 46,684]

Unless you live in a flat huh Einstein ?.......lol lol