bristol tim 135 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Whats the score with cavites lads, would you recommend 70mm cavity or 100mm, also what thickness of kingspan/celotex 50mm or 75mm? This is for converting a garage, as its single leaf, although it could be studded, I think the double leaf is a better option, for mounting stuff,etc. comes down to money once again, id rather have a warmer house than a cold one, any cavity insulation can come in different sizes 50mm 75mm 100mm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
drummer-ben 0 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Ian, the minimum cavity size is 100 mm now. I think £18000 is a good price, pending they do a good job etc.. "Pay peanuts get monkeys" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MUDD 374 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Cheers lads il ask for few more prices..... MUDD do you think that price is ott then? Can find clay wothin 3 foot here mate as I found out while doing dogrun drains! Sounds rough to me mate I'd want it painted, floored kitted out with a 50" tv on the wall and change in the pocket for that price ffs. It's only an extension. Ud get it dug out and concreted in a day. A day for the founds and any half decent brickies would have that slapped up in about a week. You'll only be into a few grand at that stage and the biggest part is already done. the materials will be the dearest though the way tradesmens prices are low at the minute due to the competition because off lack off work, I find it hard to believe that it would cost that amount off £££s. if you get mates in a day rate then you will save,but you need to be ordering and calling round for everything,people piss me off saying its f...k dear...at the end of the day you have a possibility of getting your money back and more if you sell later....what can you buy and use in luxury then sell and get all or more back...spend 50 grand on a new bmw and sell 2 yrs later ..thats a loss of thousands . Your right there. Seeing I'm a brickie I'd do it myself and everything else would be done by close friends in every other trade that I would need to finish it. The cost off materials would be my main issue. Plus if you havnt a clue what your doing you're likely to get a contractor in to do the job. So it's all down to them to do it right and sort the shit out, but that's maybe why I find the quote high !! The contractor needs paid and that'll not be cheap on top off the rest off the costs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SEAN3513 7 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Whats the score with cavites lads, would you recommend 70mm cavity or 100mm, also what thickness of kingspan/celotex 50mm or 75mm? This is for converting a garage, as its single leaf, although it could be studded, I think the double leaf is a better option, for mounting stuff,etc. Is it for living in Ian or for a workshop ?? If you build the inner,leaf with thermalite blocks and use 50 mm kingspan that should be ample , or you can use thermolites with kingspan already attached. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IanB 0 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Alright Sean, just spoke to the Architect , he said 100mm block 100mm insulation is recommended, or he said you could use 75mm cavity with insulated plaster boards.. Probs go for the 100mm thermalites and 100mm kingspan... I was told to stud it out, but better to be safe than sorry and use a cavity.. It will be a garage conversion to make a bigger kitchen and utility room mate.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BigRed1 26 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 far cheaper to get the cavity pumped an youl get a lot more block built Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SEAN3513 7 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Alright Sean, just spoke to the Architect , he said 100mm block 100mm insulation is recommended, or he said you could use 75mm cavity with insulated plaster boards.. Probs go for the 100mm thermalites and 100mm kingspan... I was told to stud it out, but better to be safe than sorry and use a cavity.. It will be a garage conversion to make a bigger kitchen and utility room mate.. i forget the u value of thermalites but they are far better than standard blocks , and far more solid than plaster board and stud , when using thermalites building control usualy allow a 75mm cavity (insulated) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnny 2 367 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Alright Sean, just spoke to the Architect , he said 100mm block 100mm insulation is recommended, or he said you could use 75mm cavity with insulated plaster boards.. Probs go for the 100mm thermalites and 100mm kingspan... I was told to stud it out, but better to be safe than sorry and use a cavity.. It will be a garage conversion to make a bigger kitchen and utility room mate.. Are you sure he said 100mm king span? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IanB 0 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Ah that would be better... I'll try getting in touch with a BCO. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rob84 112 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Alright Sean, just spoke to the Architect , he said 100mm block 100mm insulation is recommended, or he said you could use 75mm cavity with insulated plaster boards.. Probs go for the 100mm thermalites and 100mm kingspan... I was told to stud it out, but better to be safe than sorry and use a cavity.. It will be a garage conversion to make a bigger kitchen and utility room mate.. Todays regs on insulation for a garge conversion, would be 60mm celotex with a minimum clear cavity of 50mm. the inner wall could be block with the insulation tight on the block cavity side or wood/ metal stud. to save on space wood or metal stud is best as the celotex is put in the stud saving you around 4"/100mm right round. Your probabily looking at least -90mm celotex for the floor, need to work out the P/A calculation. and the roof round the 300mm of rockwool. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IanB 0 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Alright Sean, just spoke to the Architect , he said 100mm block 100mm insulation is recommended, or he said you could use 75mm cavity with insulated plaster boards.. Probs go for the 100mm thermalites and 100mm kingspan... I was told to stud it out, but better to be safe than sorry and use a cavity.. It will be a garage conversion to make a bigger kitchen and utility room mate.. Todays regs on insulation for a garge conversion, would be 60mm celotex with a minimum clear cavity of 50mm. the inner wall could be block with the insulation tight on the block cavity side or wood/ metal stud. to save on space wood or metal stud is best as the celotex is put in the stud saving you around 4"/100mm right round. Your probabily looking at least -90mm celotex for the floor, need to work out the P/A calculation. and the roof round the 300mm of rockwool. If its going to be habitable I was told 100mm or 75mm cavity if its insulated plaster to achieve the required U value.. Also 100mm kingspan with the 100 cavity...just what I was told. Not sure if theres any standards on the net. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Qbgrey 4,159 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 (edited) you cant use celotex on a existing brick skin cause you have to build blockwork first,then celotex gets clipped to back of blocks with a air gap between celotex and brickwork,,,so its not do able,unless you timber stud and celotex between. if you want to block up a internal skin you better check the footins are wide enough,you wont be allowed by bco to go off slab in normal circumstances.its usually 100m cavity batts then 100mm solar blocks and to 100mm under concrete or screed,so means breaking up garage floor in most cases .and to insulate roof is normally 100mm celo between rafters and 25mm over then plasterboard if its a single story garage Edited June 8, 2012 by Qbgrey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rob84 112 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 I work as a building control officer, always better to have a greater cavity width to stop any moisture traking over, with the current regs which changed last october the minium requirement for walls is 60mm celotex/ kingspan their all the same bar the name! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bobajob 56 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 do what the hell you like , slip the building control, a brown envelope and hel pass anything , Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest cookiemonsterandmerlin Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Thats a cracking price I would be wary of anybody saying than can do it cheaper than that ,also make sure you pay in parts with the last payment on completion. ATB Cookie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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