AR177 588 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 Hello all. Im currently sanding down my S10 stock it looked like this - And after a bit of elbow grease and sandpaper it now looks like this Let me please point out i am in no way anywhere near finished with sanding!! However i have hit a stumbling block.... the chequering ... what do i do to that?? I have sanded upto the edge but what should i do about the chequering itself? i dont want to lose any of it ... any advice would be very much apreciated .. if i cant think of anything im just going to sand round the edge and leave it as it is.... ill just have to coat over/around it ATB Adam Quote Link to post
milegajo 595 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 I'd leave the chequering myself. Nice work so far... Quote Link to post
Smokey 1 56 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 I am nearly finished on a friends BSA 308 stock, it has similar checkering to yours. I just masked the area off and sanded toward it. Then when applying the stain I removed the masking tape, this gives a good indication of the amount of stain needed. If your using Tru-Oil to finish the stock don't worry about going over the checkering I have just put ten coats on and there is still ample grip there. I started off with 120 grit and worked down to 320, apply white spirit between sanding and dry it off with a hair dryer. This will help to lift the small fibers and make them curl so you can sand them off with the next grit, do the same with three grades of wire wool and your stock should be super smooth. Masked off and sanded, you can see the tape has worn a little but nothing to worry about And this is the tenth and final coat, going to leave it now for two days then polish for a satin look. Smokey Quote Link to post
stealthy1 3,964 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 I used Nitromors on my chequering, then used wire wool to remove the lifted varnish Quote Link to post
AR177 588 Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Thanks guys I think I am just going to mask round it like smokey said, I started with (there were a few big chunks I had to iron out). I then used white spirit to show areas I needed to work on, then I broke out the 120. I also have 240 a 300 something paper and a 600 paper, then ill start to look at the wire wools. Damn it takes ages though! But it will all be worth it in the end. ATB Adam 1 Quote Link to post
Smokey 1 56 Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 (edited) Thanks guys I think I am just going to mask round it like smokey said, I started with (there were a few big chunks I had to iron out). I then used white spirit to show areas I needed to work on, then I broke out the 120. I also have 240 a 300 something paper and a 600 paper, then ill start to look at the wire wools. Damn it takes ages though! But it will all be worth it in the end. ATB Adam Your not wrong, it has taken me eight hours to sand down that BSA stock after that it is just waiting for the oil to cure. I would not bother going down to 600 sand paper as the wire wools are around the same grade, they say to use 400 grit in between oil coats and I found that to be too abrasive, so just stick with super fine wire wool. This guys video's are very helpful, you will find the other parts on the right hand menu [media=] [/media] Smokey Edited June 5, 2012 by Smokey 1 Quote Link to post
AR177 588 Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Cheers smokey ill keep that in mind when I eventually get to the oiling stage haha ATB Adam Quote Link to post
Metalman2 45 Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 I used Nitromors on my chequering, then used wire wool to remove the lifted varnish I did the same only used an old toothbrush Quote Link to post
Manco 16 Posted June 10, 2012 Report Share Posted June 10, 2012 Hope you used the wife's toothbrush - not your own! LOL Quote Link to post
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