T10 magazine

[kpr1969 7]

little bit of zeroing on the t10 last night.

topped it up, loaded up the mag and 1st shot 2 pellets were fired...

carried on and everything was ok, except that it seems when i'm getting to the end of the mag the 9th/10th pellet will fire just air, no pellet, it will fire on the next attempt though...

I'm thinking a drop of oil wont do any harm but where should I apply the oil?

it is one of the older magazines and i'm aware there are faults with them so will a drop of oil do the trick or will a new mag (which aint cheap) be the best solution?

also the issue of 2 pellets on the 1st shot was a bit of a worry...anybody offer an explanation for that?

[bigmac 97kt 13,816]

hi mate had more or less the same problem with the mag in my t10 the best bet is just get rid of the old mag and get the new up grade mag once i did this i had no bother with mine the new mags do away with the indexing pin witch the old mag needs to turn the mag to your next shot check the teeth on your mag and see if they are worn down this can make the wheel jump and check the o rings if these are worn the pellets will fall through hope this helps atb mac

[Acuspell 329]

YOU DON'T NEED TO GET RID OF THE MAGAZINE AT ALL.

 

Turn the mag upside down in your fingers, with it loaded. Underneath you will see a little "tab" that lies flat with the bottom of the side plate of the mag and drum. With your thumb nail, just press this tab in and se if the magazine drum unwinds one turn. Each time you press the tab the magazine drum should go one pellet chamber. If that works happily, then there is NOTHING wrong with the magazine.

 

Now, when you load the magazine into the rifle the first pellet should be in line with the probe. Remember to close the magazine holding latch (the front slide on left of the barrel, where the barrel meets the action). Shoot the first pellet. BEFORE YOU WORK THE BOLT, ensure you have pulled the trigger all the way back. I bet the trigger let off is less than the magazine indexing requirement, that is all - so shoot normally, after the shot and follow through (which is where you watch the shot through the scope without moving the rifle - a good technique used to ensure you don'tmove the rifle as the shot goes through the barrel) Once you are satisfied with the shot, PULL THE TRIGGER ALL THE WAY BACK, you will hear a muffled "click", that is the magazine indexing link from the trigger pressing that tab, just like you did with your thumb. The magazine will index perfectly when you work the bolt. That is all there is to it.

 

The old style magazines index on the TRIGGER,not on the bolt.If you haven't worked the trigger enough to release that magazine drum catch, it will not revolve and you will work the bolt but get no pellet. Provided yo have pulled the trigger all the way back, the magazine will revolve happily. The new type magazines with the ridged drum do not index on the trigger, but on the bolt, so they are less finicky.

 

Hope that helps.

[kpr1969 7]

Excellent stuff Accuspell, very handy stuff to know.

I wonder how many others reading this thread will be solving their indexing headaches using this pearl of wisdom about the trigger?

Also solves the 2 pellet initial shot mystery.

On reloading a full mag dont touch the bolt before taking the 1st shot.

 

Thanks Accuspell, possibly saved me the cost of a new mag

[Acuspell 329]

Excellent stuff Accuspell, very handy stuff to know.

I wonder how many others reading this thread will be solving their indexing headaches using this pearl of wisdom about the trigger?

Also solves the 2 pellet initial shot mystery.

On reloading a full mag dont touch the bolt before taking the 1st shot.

 

Thanks Accuspell, possibly saved me the cost of a new mag

 

Correct. You already worked the bolt to cock the hammer when you pulled it back to get the magazine out. When you slide the magazine back into its resting place the first pellet is there, staring at the probe waiting to be pushed home. As you close the bolt the pellet is breeched. When you change magazines you are going through the exact same procedure as between shots, the only difference is the refilling the holes bit....think about it, you fired the shot, pulled the trigger back, then pulled the bolt back to allow the magazine to come out...all you have to do to complete the cycle is push the bolt forward. Good to go.

 

Glad to have helped.

[kpr1969 7]

seen in a review on another BSA multi-shot where the owner claimed that same 2 pellet thing had happened to him and that firing 2 pellets had completely wrecked his barrel requiring a £120 repair.

put a fair few pellets through since this happened with me, all went pretty much exactly where I wanted them to, user inaccuracy being the only real problem.

seems I have gotten away with that.

[Acuspell 329]

Soft lead wrecked a BSA barrel from the same barrel maker that makes those used for .22LR rifles? I doubt it very much.

 

FORCING a second pellet in, might.

 

If anything doesn't feel the same as it should - STOP. Examine what might be occuring, but for pete's sake, don't carry on and just hope it will work itself right again. Double loading, you should be able to feel the difference in resistence, that should be enough to rouse your suspicions.

Edited February 22, 2012 by Acuspell

[kpr1969 7]

to be fair this guy was the only one who damned the R10 on the review centre site...

worst gun he has ever owned apparently. (check it out, i think he's the 1st review)

 

I had a few mags last night and your tips have eliminated the problem totally.

Also fitted the new silencer (twink II from davyt63, excellent) and bipod...

tis one sweet machine now.

a bit of plinking and paper punching and I'll be ready to bother people for trips out..

[Acuspell 329]

Amazing how understanding what is going on can help to make things work as they should!

 

Glad you are sorted. The Scorpion is a great rifle, but just too compact for me. Mine was making one ragged hole groups with Defiants (lead pellets, 14g, so light but not too light) at 50 yards. They need to be the large head size (there are 3 different head sizes for different barrels, the BSA barrels all prefer the 5.52, because that is the English standard bore size - some heavily choked barrels prefer the smaller ones). BUT, the barrel will need to be cleaned out for them to work correctly. The best way to do this is to simply let pellets scrub the bore to their own liking,but generally people get bored and give up before their barrel is properly aclimatised to the new pellets. Mine took the best part of 50 shots before the 2" groups at 30 yards started to tighten up. Persever and all will come good - it might take over 100 shots before they will work, and every time you put a different pellet down, takes you back again! Buy a box (650) and use it purely as a test box. I bet you'll have 500 dead on pellets in that box, the other 150 can be regarded as preparation pellets. From then on though, you have 650 usable pellets in each box. No, they are not cheap, but neither is missing - how much does a wasted journey cost? I don't think people ever take that into consideration. The difference PER PELLET is probably 1p...I will happily give you 1p to hit rather than miss.

Edited February 23, 2012 by Acuspell