zeroing a 223

[richmcgin 32]

hate to admit it but i think your right deker!!. full agreement.

[richmcgin 32]

Worthy, i think you must have found the perfect combination of barrel and bullet, fair play to you and if your hand loading will you do some for me mate!.

[worthy130 21]

Worthy, i think you must have found the perfect combination of barrel and bullet, fair play to you and if your hand loading will you do some for me mate!.

 

I am not re-loading i am using factory rounds. but yes the rifle-ammo combo is working for me

[jimmy.jim86 1]

I've got a cz .223 best advice I got was zero at 100 go to 50 ten 150 yards a see where t shoots I'm punching 50gr blitz kings in front of 25.2gr of varget. Shoots 1/4 inch diff from 50 to 150 yards.

 

 

Hope this helps. James

[remi700 99]

I've never heard as much shite in me life! Set a rifle at 200 yards if thats where your gona shoot your foxes?? Do you have them on the whistle or somthin? Can you send them back if you get a sly one dukin you at 30 yards? As the first few comments on this stated set 1" high at 100 yards and you wont be far away. Whats an inch in the side of a fox.

[GRAM71 29]

i remember setting up my swede when i got it, after zeroing dead on at 150ish yds, (end of the field) i set some boards out ranging from 30yds out just to see where the bullet impacted at different ranges, you might want to try this

[richmcgin 32]

is that the ol irsh blarney remi!, dont agree zeroing an inch high is of limited usefulness but i gather its fashionable.

Gram71 thats good advise and a very practical lesson for anyone.

i seem to remeber from some testing that the best proformance from a 223 will be gained by zeroing at 175.

[markha 99]

We are not talking about extreme long range shooting with small groups, we are talking genuine hunting distances on fox and vermin.

 

I see no point in the missguided conception of zeroing 1" high at 100m or 100yds, this is a 'cheat' for not zeroing at a longer range for the best point blank range (pbr). It will only work if your rifle/ammo combo matches exactly with that of the factory ammo data, and the only way to know whether your combo matches that is to get over a chrono.

I put some 55gr remmy accutips over the chrono a few weeks ago, they shot at 2975fps as an average, Remington ballistic data puts them at 3300fps in their test rifle, now thats a big difference, so if you thought you could zero to match the factory results you would find you were a long way off! And to me thats irresponsible shooting.

 

Simply zero at 100 (yds/m whatever is your preference) move back or move target to 150 then 200 then 250 and note the drop and any windage. You cant beat your own drop chart.

 

Job done.

[worthy130 21]

Each to their own, the OP was asking for advise and its up to him which of the 2 methods to choose. I did not post my comments for people to turn round and say 'thats not right'. I zero my rifle how i like to zero it, if you don't like my method then thats fine but if you think any of your comments are going to make me change my method then you are sadly mistaken! Too many fookin know it alls on here that think they know best!

 

ATB

[markha 99]

Worthy, did I mention you personally? Nope, Were there a few others who posted the same zero procedure as you? Yes.

Do I give a shit If you zero your rifle at whatever range? No

Did I post my own thoughts like everyone else? Yes

 

Are you suggesting Im a fooking know all who knows best?

[worthy130 21]

I see no point in the missguided conception of zeroing 1" high at 100m or 100yds, this is a 'cheat' for not zeroing at a longer range for the best point blank range (pbr).

 

Well I am misguided and a cheat so think what you like!

[markha 99]

James, You have taken my comments out of context. I am not calling you a cheat, I am saying that the point of zeroing 1" high at 100yds is a cheat for zeroing around the 200yd mark.

This works sometimes but not always and depends on whether your trajectory matches that of the factory ballistics and hence why it is a missguided concept unless your rifle and ammunition match that of the test rifle that the factories used to give their drop data.

 

Dont be touchy, my posted this was not aimed at you (plenty of other posted about zeroing 1" high and they arent jumping on my comments) but I got the feeling your comments were aimed directly at me.

[black lab 3]

Hi Guy's

My pennies worth, tin hat on for flak/bullet's

 

You cannot beat out in the field at your own target's, ie my own are 50-100-150-200yrds

And give it a go in all conditions rain, wind, snow ect.

It help's to get to know your rifle.

My Rifle is zeroed at 100yrds and i know where to aim for up to 200yrds beyond that i just don't shoot live quarry.

 

ATB

Wullie.

[.338LM 10]

To be happy zeroing high at 100m you need to 'prove' the trajectory of your ammo. DO NOT rely on makers claims, they are often way out. By all means zero at 100m, but then prove the drop at 125, 150, 175, 200 and further if you shoot further by shooting at tgts and getting a group.

 

I zero all my rifles at 100m (not yards) and as each of my rifles has its own nirex folder I make 'come ups' for each load. I then prove these come ups by firing each load. That way I know what and where my bullet is doing on its way downrange.

 

A lot of folks use the 175m -200m zero because it allows a greater inaccuracy in range estimation, the skill which I personally think is the hardest to truly master. Each to his own.

[richmcgin 32]

ok i give up whats a nirex folder??