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My dog is saluki whippet greyhound 23tts and 19kg she looks well but my wife says she looks underwight what do you lads reckon?

whers ya pick then i can tell ya buddy

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It's all very well talking about running weight, but hard muscled very fit dog might well weigh more than the same dog fat but unfit. Muscle is heavier than fat. There's no point starving a dog to get

cheers bullmastif the top pic is the most resent

My dog is saluki whippet greyhound 23tts and 19kg she looks well but my wife says she looks underwight what do you lads reckon?

whers ya pick then i can tell ya buddy

<a href="http://s1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb462/mikeball1/?action=view&current=IMAG0050.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb462/mikeball1/IMAG0050.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

mikeball1.95710@uploads.photobucket.com

 

Get on with it Michael :thumbs:

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ALRIGHT MATE .

VERY BASIC STUFF ,HALF FEED YOUR DOG FOR A WEEK /DAY 7 SHOW IT THE GOOD,S.

IF ITS ON THE MONEY FEED A WEE BIT MORE IF ITS SHITE .

FEED IT RIGHT UP AND RUN IT 1WK LATER AND SEE HOW IT GOES

IF ITS STILL NOT PUSHING YOUR BUTTON ITS CRAP/GET RID.

IT SHOULD BE AT ITS BEST WHEN LIGHTER.

DEPENDING WHAT IT WAS BRED FOR.

IE BX HEAVIER SALX LIGHTER DEER /HARE/FOX HORSES FOR COARSES :thumbs:

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ALRIGHT MATE .

VERY BASIC STUFF ,HALF FEED YOUR DOG FOR A WEEK /DAY 7 SHOW IT THE GOOD,S.

IF ITS ON THE MONEY FEED A WEE BIT MORE IF ITS SHITE .

FEED IT RIGHT UP AND RUN IT 1WK LATER AND SEE HOW IT GOES

IF ITS STILL NOT PUSHING YOUR BUTTON ITS CRAP/GET RID.

IT SHOULD BE AT ITS BEST WHEN LIGHTER.

DEPENDING WHAT IT WAS BRED FOR.

IE BX HEAVIER SALX LIGHTER DEER /HARE/FOX HORSES FOR COARSES :thumbs:

compleat shite as usuall .anyone who takes this mans advice is as soft as he is :laugh:
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ALRIGHT MATE .

VERY BASIC STUFF ,HALF FEED YOUR DOG FOR A WEEK /DAY 7 SHOW IT THE GOOD,S.

IF ITS ON THE MONEY FEED A WEE BIT MORE IF ITS SHITE .

FEED IT RIGHT UP AND RUN IT 1WK LATER AND SEE HOW IT GOES

IF ITS STILL NOT PUSHING YOUR BUTTON ITS CRAP/GET RID.

IT SHOULD BE AT ITS BEST WHEN LIGHTER.

DEPENDING WHAT IT WAS BRED FOR.

IE BX HEAVIER SALX LIGHTER DEER /HARE/FOX HORSES FOR COARSES :thumbs:

compleat shite as usuall .anyone who takes this mans advice is as soft as he is :laugh:

WHAT WOULD YOU DO BIG RUNNING DOG MAN.

YOU WANT TO SEE THE MONKEY FAST/N/SLOW.

GET A ADULT DOG/BITCH IN YOU WANT TO SEE HOW IT GOES.

REAL DEALS LOOK AT THE ANIMAL AND SEE POTENTIAL.

THEN YOU GO LIGHT /N/HEAVY PLUS DOUBLE WAE A GOOD DOG THEN YOU EVALUATE.

IF ITS SHITE TA/TA,

 

RIO DOG IVE FORGOT MORE THAN YOU KNOW.

BOY :thumbs:

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It's all very well talking about running weight, but hard muscled very fit dog might well weigh more than the same dog fat but unfit. Muscle is heavier than fat. There's no point starving a dog to get it to the 'right' running weight if it isn't fit in the first place. Dogs working very hard need a lot more food than dogs not doing much. They also look very different.

 

Besides which, in lurchers, which can all be very different to each other, even within the same litter, it is impossible to say what weight in kilos or pounds a dog should be. Different dogs have different metabolic rates: one dog which does well on a small amount of food may even look heavy. These are known as 'good doers'.

Give another lurcher of the same height the same amount of food and it would starve: the influences of the various breeds which go into the make up of a dog will affect how each individual uses its food, the amount of energy it expends when working. Temperament plays a part as well. Laid back dogs might well need a lot less food than stressy, highly strung dogs.

 

I let my dogs get a bit overweight, not a lot, during the summer, feed them a bit less as they are doing less, then when they start getting fit before the season, I keep the food the same, increase the exercise, and only increase the food once the dog shows that it has lost that summer weight and is starting to work really hard. I like to see the last 3 ribs in most lurchers: some Saluki types run better a lot lighter, almost like hat racks. Dogs without a lot of Saluki usually do better if you can't see all the ribs, just the last three. But that is only a generalisation. Terrier blooded lurchers shouldn't show too much bony bits as their bigger muscles need to cover the bones more: if you run a heavy built dog too light it will lack power and energy and stamina. It all depends on the make up of the dog and the job you want it to do. Whippety types can lose a lot of weight during a night's lamping, so they need to be carrying enough weight to lose that weight without crashing on you during the night. A very fit dog of any type may look underweight to the untrained eye, but top fitness is only obtained by very careful and prolonged conditioning.

 

I guess what I'm trying to say, is that until you know the dog inside out and have run if for a few months, you can't say what each individual should weigh, regardless of its height. But the dog needs getting fit properly before you test it hard in the field. I've had a 25inch Saluki type which ran well at only 22 kilos, a very light weight at which a more heavily built dog would have keeled over for lack of food and energy. I've also had a 27Inch Saluki type which needed to be a lot heavier pro rata: bigger, punchier muscles. Run him too light and he's slow. Needs the extra weight in the muscles for power. Seen a lot of Sal types run too light: all stamina and no punch: turned into ploddy dogs which just had to run slow to conserve energy. Beef those same dogs up a bit and they ran a lot faster, tighter and better, but it all depends on the individual dog.

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ALRIGHT MATE .

VERY BASIC STUFF ,HALF FEED YOUR DOG FOR A WEEK /DAY 7 SHOW IT THE GOOD,S.

IF ITS ON THE MONEY FEED A WEE BIT MORE IF ITS SHITE .

FEED IT RIGHT UP AND RUN IT 1WK LATER AND SEE HOW IT GOES

IF ITS STILL NOT PUSHING YOUR BUTTON ITS CRAP/GET RID.

IT SHOULD BE AT ITS BEST WHEN LIGHTER.

DEPENDING WHAT IT WAS BRED FOR.

IE BX HEAVIER SALX LIGHTER DEER /HARE/FOX HORSES FOR COARSES :thumbs:

compleat shite as usuall .anyone who takes this mans advice is as soft as he is :laugh:

WHAT WOULD YOU DO BIG RUNNING DOG MAN.

YOU WANT TO SEE THE MONKEY FAST/N/SLOW.

GET A ADULT DOG/BITCH IN YOU WANT TO SEE HOW IT GOES.

REAL DEALS LOOK AT THE ANIMAL AND SEE POTENTIAL.

THEN YOU GO LIGHT /N/HEAVY PLUS DOUBLE WAE A GOOD DOG THEN YOU EVALUATE.

IF ITS SHITE TA/TA,

 

RIO DOG IVE FORGOT MORE THAN YOU KNOW.

BOY :thumbs:

clown ! want to leave the bukfst alone ,and stop talking crap , as you usually do ,i wouldnt trust you with a hampster ; ,never mind a dog now run along ;
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ALRIGHT MATE .

VERY BASIC STUFF ,HALF FEED YOUR DOG FOR A WEEK /DAY 7 SHOW IT THE GOOD,S.

IF ITS ON THE MONEY FEED A WEE BIT MORE IF ITS SHITE .

FEED IT RIGHT UP AND RUN IT 1WK LATER AND SEE HOW IT GOES

IF ITS STILL NOT PUSHING YOUR BUTTON ITS CRAP/GET RID.

IT SHOULD BE AT ITS BEST WHEN LIGHTER.

DEPENDING WHAT IT WAS BRED FOR.

IE BX HEAVIER SALX LIGHTER DEER /HARE/FOX HORSES FOR COARSES :thumbs:

compleat shite as usuall .anyone who takes this mans advice is as soft as he is :laugh:

WHAT WOULD YOU DO BIG RUNNING DOG MAN.

YOU WANT TO SEE THE MONKEY FAST/N/SLOW.

GET A ADULT DOG/BITCH IN YOU WANT TO SEE HOW IT GOES.

REAL DEALS LOOK AT THE ANIMAL AND SEE POTENTIAL.

THEN YOU GO LIGHT /N/HEAVY PLUS DOUBLE WAE A GOOD DOG THEN YOU EVALUATE.

IF ITS SHITE TA/TA,

 

RIO DOG IVE FORGOT MORE THAN YOU KNOW.

BOY :thumbs:

clown ! want to leave the bukfst alone ,and stop talking crap , as you usually do ,i wouldnt trust you with a hampster ; ,never mind a dog now run along ;

YOUR A COMIC MATE,

ENLIGHTEN US WITH WHAT YOU WOULD DO.

GET A DOG IN AND HOW YOU WOULD EVALUATE HOW IT WAS GOODUYN OR A BAD UN.

IVE HAD LURCHER,S GREW,S FOR 40YRS AND I CAN USUELLY TELL WITHIN 10MINS ON A FREE RUN WETHHER THER GOOD OR BAD.

SO WHAT DO YOU DO :thumbs:

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It's all very well talking about running weight, but hard muscled very fit dog might well weigh more than the same dog fat but unfit. Muscle is heavier than fat. There's no point starving a dog to get it to the 'right' running weight if it isn't fit in the first place. Dogs working very hard need a lot more food than dogs not doing much. They also look very different.

 

Besides which, in lurchers, which can all be very different to each other, even within the same litter, it is impossible to say what weight in kilos or pounds a dog should be. Different dogs have different metabolic rates: one dog which does well on a small amount of food may even look heavy. These are known as 'good doers'.

Give another lurcher of the same height the same amount of food and it would starve: the influences of the various breeds which go into the make up of a dog will affect how each individual uses its food, the amount of energy it expends when working. Temperament plays a part as well. Laid back dogs might well need a lot less food than stressy, highly strung dogs.

 

I let my dogs get a bit overweight, not a lot, during the summer, feed them a bit less as they are doing less, then when they start getting fit before the season, I keep the food the same, increase the exercise, and only increase the food once the dog shows that it has lost that summer weight and is starting to work really hard. I like to see the last 3 ribs in most lurchers: some Saluki types run better a lot lighter, almost like hat racks. Dogs without a lot of Saluki usually do better if you can't see all the ribs, just the last three. But that is only a generalisation. Terrier blooded lurchers shouldn't show too much bony bits as their bigger muscles need to cover the bones more: if you run a heavy built dog too light it will lack power and energy and stamina. It all depends on the make up of the dog and the job you want it to do. Whippety types can lose a lot of weight during a night's lamping, so they need to be carrying enough weight to lose that weight without crashing on you during the night. A very fit dog of any type may look underweight to the untrained eye, but top fitness is only obtained by very careful and prolonged conditioning.

 

I guess what I'm trying to say, is that until you know the dog inside out and have run if for a few months, you can't say what each individual should weigh, regardless of its height. But the dog needs getting fit properly before you test it hard in the field. I've had a 25inch Saluki type which ran well at only 22 kilos, a very light weight at which a more heavily built dog would have keeled over for lack of food and energy. I've also had a 27Inch Saluki type which needed to be a lot heavier pro rata: bigger, punchier muscles. Run him too light and he's slow. Needs the extra weight in the muscles for power. Seen a lot of Sal types run too light: all stamina and no punch: turned into ploddy dogs which just had to run slow to conserve energy. Beef those same dogs up a bit and they ran a lot faster, tighter and better, but it all depends on the individual dog.

good post skycat, key word INDIVIDUAL
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