help and advice please

[Westy76 546]

Cheers lads,

Ok I'm getting the the impression a pair of jills is the way to go but young kits or a pair that's been started? Also does it matter what colour they are as I pressume albinos would be easy to spot(unless snowing)sorry for the blonde question just thought I'd ask while I can get away with it

So start without locators or not and what's everyone's opinion on the ones on the Market?

Rascal,I'm in billingshurst mate would be great to come out sometime.

Thanks for the help fellas,really appreciated.

[muddy210 34]

colour dont really matter as long as they are from good working stock stay away from those listed as polecats. polecat coloured is a different matter albinos or coloured will do the job albinos as you rightly said easier to se in the undergrowth. mk3m is the only one you can get new know mk1 stopped been produced about 2005 and the manufacturer will no longer repaire them mk3 is good just learn how to use it before you need it lol

[rascal_2005 79]

Mate i got 3 albinos and a sandy/cinimon, all jills, i only have them as they were what came up!

[Westy76 546]

Thanks again guys,

If I get kits what age would you start working them,how long can a ferret work for(how many years) also how often do you feed them and what(BARF v dry)

Thanks again for taking the time to help

Edited October 21, 2011 by Westy76

[Plong 21]

Ferrets can be worked usually upto around 5 years, personally I would go for albinos as like you say they are easy to spot. Your don't really want to be ferreting when your jills will be in season as they will be nests of young rabbits which can be a real pain. You can get young rabbits all year but come spring almost every warren will have them. If you get kits now chances are they will be ready to start working unless they were a late litter. Rabbit heads are good for feeding or full rabbits if you don't want them all.

[Westy76 546]

So if I was to get kits what would I need to do to get them ready to work?

[muddy210 34]

if you have some one to go with follow them let the kits have a run after the older ones, if not just get out and find a small warren 3 -5 holer and let them enter it. dont force them down or drag them out and if poss let them enter on ahole thats level not straight down. let them have a run around some will just hole pop while others take straight to it. just let them do it themselves and let them leave the warren of there own accord dont try to grab the ferret untill it has cleared the hole this may take a while but in the long run its better than having a peekaboo ferret one of which i own and when ya wanna move on its a pain in the arse.

 

keep asking the questions mate and see what books you can get hold of simon whitehead books seem good i have one here that is a good read and explains all the basics well.

 

just be patient and learn everytime you go

[Westy76 546]

Won't the unknown ferrets row if I send kits after the older ones??

How often do you guys/girls feed yours and does it differ for kits- seasoned pros?

How often would you work a pair in a week?

What about introducing unknown ferrets together at home?

Thanks again for taking the time to answer my question

[Plong 21]

Working them 2-3 times a week is fine as long as they dont get injured if they do rest them. It is very rare that they take a bad kick but it can happen that they gat caught in the eye or the odd rat bite. They won't fight when they are working together. I feed every day as I don't really want ferrets that lay up on a kill. Introducing other ferrets is fine as long as you don't keep 2 hobs together as they will fight.

Edited October 22, 2011 by Plong

[muddy210 34]

feed every day bar one. feed them on rabbit and raw meat where poss with dry on back up if needed or during summer when the flies are to much.

 

working them depends on the ground you work and how long the days are i have a team of 4 that may get out 3 times a week if work allows and they show no probs

[Westy76 546]

Cheers again lads,so only keep 1 hob then?

How much do you feed them(raw & dry)

What about worming and fleas especially getting rid of the nasties in there hutch??

Whats the best bedding(with winter in mind) and what do you guys put on the floor in the hutch?

Thanks again

[Plong 21]

Straw for the nest sawdust for bottom of hutch, as long as the bedding is changed often you won't get a problem with fleas in the hutch. Have never personally bothered worming a ferret but do them with flea powder once in a while. If there going to be in the same cage then yes one hob if you put two in the strongest will just rag the other about. Feed wise depends on amount of ferrets but you don't them getting too heavy it's just something you will pick up with time as long as they get a good 5 minutes each feeding you won't be far wrong.

[muddy210 34]

in winter i chuck a rabbit in with my four and refeed when its gone usually a day with dry i keep them topped up on the stuff in the summer then they allways have some food to go at but they can put weight on with it if they do then they are on there leads and marching the streets soon gets them fit and healthy lol.

 

as for fleas and ticks i treat as i find no point in spending money on stuff if not needed also dont like dosing the ferrets withs chems for the sake of it, so i dose when i need to also get yourself a good tick puller in advance the otom ones are the best and a doddle to use frontline spray aswell is good to have on stock not the spot on though

[Westy76 546]

cheers guys for all the replies really helped me out and after a cracking day out ferreting today has made my mind up this is for me,

[muddy210 34]

good stuff mate loads of advice to be had off here when ya start on your own take it slow and steady and let the animals build up sowly never force them down or drag them out then they will learn the rest.

 

atb muddy