slingshot82 32 Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 I am moving into my new house in the next month or so, and will be applying for my shotgun certificate, the problem being the walls are not brick. When the house went up it was timber and sterling board then the bricks were put up afterwards. So how do I secure my cabinet to the wall? Thanks in advance for replies Kyle Quote Link to post
shotgun tim 27 Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 up in the loft to an outside wall big screws into the framing and to the joists they shouldnt be a problem just think how many timber frames are out there now!! Quote Link to post
paulus 26 Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 drill through from the outside then put threaded bar with a nut on the top through form the outside and embed into the brick, cement over the top. i did this a good number of years ago for someone. Quote Link to post
chimp 299 Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 only brick wall in my place if the fire and chimney , mine has to go up against that Quote Link to post
Lab 10,979 Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 I am moving into my new house in the next month or so, and will be applying for my shotgun certificate, the problem being the walls are not brick. When the house went up it was timber and sterling board then the bricks were put up afterwards. So how do I secure my cabinet to the wall? Thanks in advance for replies Kyle Find a joist and bolt it to that. Also bolt it to the floor. If it doesn't budge you'll be fine, they wont ask if its into brick. Quote Link to post
provarmint 25 Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 Chapter 19 HO firearms guidance, floor and roof joist fixing Ok, coach screws at least 3/8" diameter and at least 2 1/5" long. Unfortunately that means horizontal fixing. Quote Link to post
slingshot82 32 Posted September 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 drill through from the outside then put threaded bar with a nut on the top through form the outside and embed into the brick, cement over the top. i did this a good number of years ago for someone. Hmmm, I doubt I will be doing that to a brand spankin new house lol. Thanks for the reply though Quote Link to post
PLEDGEY 496 Posted September 17, 2011 Report Share Posted September 17, 2011 Grip Fill Quote Link to post
matt_hooks 188 Posted September 17, 2011 Report Share Posted September 17, 2011 drill through from the outside then put threaded bar with a nut on the top through form the outside and embed into the brick, cement over the top. i did this a good number of years ago for someone. Hmmm, I doubt I will be doing that to a brand spankin new house lol. Thanks for the reply though Might be the only way to do it. If the brick infill isn't secure, then you'll need to fix to the beams, and the floor. I know people who have had to steel plate a wall to get the required strength, that mainly where all walls are plasterboard, or where and external wall insulation build has been used. Quote Link to post
Millet 4,497 Posted September 17, 2011 Report Share Posted September 17, 2011 Can it not be layed down on a concrete floor and rawl bolted.. Quote Link to post
matt_hooks 188 Posted September 17, 2011 Report Share Posted September 17, 2011 Can it not be layed down on a concrete floor and rawl bolted.. If there's an area of concrete floor big enough, that's always a possibility. Takes up a hell of a lot more space though. Quote Link to post
Big_Al 5 Posted September 17, 2011 Report Share Posted September 17, 2011 I would worry about condensation on the floor so becareful Quote Link to post
Millet 4,497 Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 I used to keep 2 big bag's of silica gel in the bottom of my cabinet to combat any moisture issues Quote Link to post
PLEDGEY 496 Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 I would worry about condensation on the floor so becareful Place the cabinet on top of a piece of 3oomu visqueen PIFA grade DPM(damp proof membrane) or a nice thick piece of plastic. Drill through the membrane but some silicone sealant under the cabinet, only by the holes, before you do the bolts/nuts up. When fixed cut off any membrane that is still showing. I keep a couple of Napier pouches in my cabinet. It stops any moisture getting in. Quote Link to post
tanktfb 2 Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 phone your local firearms office and ask them would be the easiest solution they will tell you exactly what you need to do Quote Link to post
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