elma-fudd 0 Posted March 11, 2007 Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 all right here go s my pup of 9 months will not come close enough to put back on the lead she was getting abit better there but as started playing up again she stays prety close when am out walking ,comes running when i hide,but the minute i put my hand out she shys away like shes going to get a skelp but never does this at home iv tryed treats and the long rope but when shes on the rope she will not leave my side the minute the lead comes out at home she there waiting,has anybody still had this with 9 month old pup she is bull,saluki,grey/deer,grey shes getting abit big not to be coming back but she is very head strong and crabit as f--k somtimes, i can see she will be a machine she has got balls and knows what she should be doing but its realy nippy when she wont go on the lead.am hopeing shes just a late developer other than that shes a great beast. Quote Link to post
jacob 28 Posted March 11, 2007 Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 shes just testing you mate,try sitting down and completly ignoring her ,shell come in ,because somethings different and shell want to know what,you need a bit of patience,when she does come in put her back on the lead,give her a bit of fuss,let her straight off again and walk off for a bit longer then do the same thing again,what youre trying to do is stop her thinking that every time she goes on the lead she has to go home and the funs over.good luck. Quote Link to post
Kay 3,709 Posted March 11, 2007 Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 When i had a lurcher pup if he wouldnt come back i used to walkin the opersite direction & he always came to see why i was going without him i also called him back in a higt pitch voice and that always got his attention, wy not try an extender lead just keep calling him back to you, i know pups can try the patience of a saint sometimes but keep at it Quote Link to post
elma-fudd 0 Posted March 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 When i had a lurcher pup if he wouldnt come back i used to walkin the opersite direction & he always came to see why i was going without him i also called him back in a higt pitch voice and that always got his attention, wy not try an extender lead just keep calling him back to you, i know pups can try the patience of a saint sometimes but keep at it i have tryed that and yes she does come running but the minute i stop she stops behind me and looks very wary of me even tit bits arent working she just comes so close and trys to snatch them i was wondering if theres any of these elcetronic coliers that would aid her progress. Quote Link to post
brokenleg 0 Posted March 11, 2007 Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 Take a kitchen worktop out with you when you go a walk. Leave a ham end/succulent roast duck/bag of pies. If she doesn't come back to you, at least you'll know where to find her. :11: Quote Link to post
elma-fudd 0 Posted March 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 Take a kitchen worktop out with you when you go a walk. Leave a ham end/succulent roast duck/bag of pies. If she doesn't come back to you, at least you'll know where to find her. :11: lmao :11: you know her so well Quote Link to post
skycat 6,173 Posted March 11, 2007 Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 (edited) A shock collar is the last thing to use in a case like this! Are you saying that you have NEVER lost your temper and hit the dog when you do finally get it on the lead? If you haven't then good for you as it always makes things worse. It sounds as if your pup has a real good case of the teenage time: time to wind you up, and its having a ball. A lot of pups go through this time when they try and test you out, pushing the boundaries, trying to be boss. Go back to basics: recall on a long lead, treat every time. Let the dog wander off in front of you then call it in: don't 'ask' or 'plead' with the dog, 'tell 'it to come. Use its name and the word 'come' in a firm no nonsense voice, and reel the dog in GENTLY if you have to: even if you have to pull it in still praise it like mad when it gets to you. You need to 'brainwash' or 'condition' the dog to obey, and using a long line doesn't give it the opportunity to disobey. I stress again, treat and praise every time for a week: and don't let it off the long line during that week. Sorry, just reread your post properly: see you've tried the long line. If she has thrown to the Saluki a lot in temperament, then some are very like that: they do grow out of it eventually, but you will have to be very firm and take no sh*t from her as if you give this sort an inch they will take ten miles! Don't tolerate any misbehaviour either out or at home: absolutely no letting her jump up at you or anyone else. Personally I don't like using food treats as my dogs know what praise is and love it. Another couple of things: does your dog live in or out? If it lives in the house, is it used to getting its won way all the time? Like attention whenever it comes to your or the rest of the family. Do you or the others give it titbits without the dog having to 'earn' them? Does it sleep in your bedroom? If the answer to any of those is yes, then stop doing them right away: give the dog a bed in the kitchen/utility room or whatever: don't give it privileges above it place in your family/pack. Don't let it demand and get attention: ignore it unless YOU call it to you for some attention. Practice ignoring it and see how its attitude changes: but you and the rest of the family have to be consistent, and it takes some doing if you've got in the habit of just giving it a stroke every time it comes and nuzzles you. Don't worry, you won't have to be like this forever: just until it knows it cant get what it wants all the time. Another thing: when you try and get the dog back on the lead when you are out, is this always at the end of exercise? Is this the only time you call the dog back to you, when its time to go home? I make a point of calling my dogs to me several times whilst we're out, and when they are pups, just put them on the lead for a short time then let them off again. This way they don't just associate going on the lead with going back home. Have you tried lying down? I know this sounds daft, but often the dog will come in to see what the hell you are doing: DO NOT try and grab her if she sniffs you, just praise her like mad. It sounds as though you might have a bit of ground to make up as she is now wary of being grabbed and put back on the lead. Another thing: put a very short bit of lead or rope on her collar: not enough for her to stand on a trip up, about a foot long maximum; then once you have got her coming to sniff you, for treats, just start stroking her without grabbing, and then progress to getting hold of the lead once she is coming in well. It will take time, and you need to be able to do all this in a fairly enclosed space: small paddock or somewhere she can't take off. To be honest, it does sound as though she just doesn't want the walk to end. Is she walked every day, and does she get to go off the lead every day? These dogs just need to run, and if she's not getting enough that could also be causing problems. Hope this helps. Edited March 11, 2007 by skycat Quote Link to post
FAJR 0 Posted March 12, 2007 Report Share Posted March 12, 2007 excellent advice from skycat mate. you wont go wrong if you follow wots been said. Quote Link to post
Sorley x 32 Posted March 12, 2007 Report Share Posted March 12, 2007 Brilliant advice from skycat. Practice recall more, and don't let the dog associate recall with home time. One thing you could try, although you might be better enrolling in some dog training before attempting it, is the following. Dogs are pack animals, you are (or should be) the most important person in your dogs pack. Your the top dog, there is no doubt she is testing the boundaries and pushing buttons to see how you react. One thing to try is when you are out walking is to exclude her from your pack. Each time she comes near to you growl at her and chase her out of your 'space'. Use menace but don't overdo it. She must think it is not a game but no more than that. Five minutes of moving her on and chasing her away from you and she will be in a state of confusion and probably fairly apprehensive. When she is at this point drop down and call her in with as much praise and enthusiasm as you can, make a huge fuss over her. YOu will probably noice that as she runs into you (yes runs) she will have dropped her head and tail in a very submissive manner. Basically almost all animals that live in groups will ostracise a member as punishment. Alone the animals are doomed so not being part of the group or the thought that they might not be is scary enough to curb their bad behaviour. BUT I WOULD BE VERY CAREFUL ABOUT EMPLOYING THIS METHOD - PLEASE go and get some pointers from a trainer. Most likely a six week session is about 70 quid, which is peanuts considering theat dog will be a loyal companion for several years. Quote Link to post
Guest ceredigion bull cross Posted March 12, 2007 Report Share Posted March 12, 2007 i have a 5/8 3/8 grey x bull bitch that i bred and she is doing the same sh-t ......personally i have been crouching down when calling her back and this seems to help also if you have another dog or a mate with a dog use that to your addvantage in the way of calling the other dog back first and make a big fuss of it , this will make your problem dog jealous and hopefully return double quick , the main thing is patience , Quote Link to post
elma-fudd 0 Posted March 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2007 thanks for the replys :thumbs-up: Quote Link to post
elma-fudd 0 Posted April 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2007 the saga is just about over ,got a shot of a static correction collar well f--k me for the first time i have a young bitch thats a joy to take out,only had to use the static twice then just used the warning tone thank f--k for that cause she was driving me nutts. Quote Link to post
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