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Dogs prey drive


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Doesn't sound like prey drive just lack of training is he a young dog? Sometimes an inexperienced dog will hunt up it's often referred to deafening out. This can be a nightmare when your lamping. Another way of sorting this out is to try and give him easy runs on squatters etc. They usually learn quickly that all theres more action at the end of the beam. If you do lamp with him and he misses turn the lamp of straight away and try to resist the temtation to keep the lamp on and shining on other stuff. The idea is to get him to come straight back when the lamp goes off. It's a bit more difficult in the day time obviously if the dog is used to running free and gets on a line. As others have pointed out good recall is essential in a dog and can save you a lot of time and shit if he disappears every time your out. These things are always best done as a pup.

 

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It doesn't stop my dog chasing. I call him and if he doesn't respond he gets the warning tone from the collar, if that doesn't work he gets shocked. He's well aware that he's getting punished for ignoring commands, not for chasing. I hardly ever have to shock him these days and him spotting a Deer is no longer the nightmare that it used to be.

 

When used appropriately they are the best tool you can own for a dog. It could stop your dog getting run over, lost or getting attacked/attacking another dog.

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surely zapping the dog when it's chasing something is going to put it off chasing things????

 

Rob...

 

No more than taking a tumble or getting bitten.

 

Like all training, it must be done well.

 

(1) The "zap" should be no more than required. Instructions on the collars that I've seen INSIST that you start the correction level low and work up until you are just getting sufficient reaction from the dog. The dog should NOT react as though it has been struck by lightning, but as tho you have just corrected it hard enough to get its attention. I'll qualify this by adding that some dogs require more to "get their attention" than others and that appears to include some of the bull-breeds. It is possible that an initial harder correction may be required in order for the dog to get the hint, followed by reduced levels of correction as training builds habits of correction.

 

You MUST know your dog well enough to know what level of correction they can stand. Some are as tough as old boots while others go to pieces at a stern word.

 

(2) The training should be sufficiently consistent that the dog does not associate the correction with chasing game, but with ignoring commands. To be done well this will include setting up situations in which the dog may be tempted to run, yet corrected instantly when it does not follow orders, situations that do not involve chasing game.

 

(3) The training must be sufficiently timely that the dog associates dosobedience with correction. That is where the electrical collars shine. A moderate "zap" within 3 seconds of the ignored command does far more to drive the lesson home that a thrashing after the dog has returned to you.

 

It's like all other areas of training. You have to be smarter than the dog.

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Doesn't sound like prey drive just lack of training is he a young dog? Sometimes an inexperienced dog will hunt up it's often referred to deafening out. This can be a nightmare when your lamping. Another way of sorting this out is to try and give him easy runs on squatters etc. They usually learn quickly that all theres more action at the end of the beam. If you do lamp with him and he misses turn the lamp of straight away and try to resist the temtation to keep the lamp on and shining on other stuff. The idea is to get him to come straight back when the lamp goes off. It's a bit more difficult in the day time obviously if the dog is used to running free and gets on a line. As others have pointed out good recall is essential in a dog and can save you a lot of time and shit if he disappears every time your out. These things are always best don

as a pup.

To be fair i got him at 15 months he is my first dog and he's always been the same but has shown improvements, when I put a post on here about a collar people were very quick to judge which put me off, however I have ha him now for about 6 month and it's not long but iv learnt alot but still loads I need to no, if I could sort out the hunting up and recall he would be an awesome dog, lots of folk say get rid an start fresh but I'm to stubborn to give up and I like him... A dog isn't just for x mas lol.

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Right my bull cross has a massive prey drive, what ever he is chasing no matter how big or small, the problem I'm having is he will literally go through anything to catch what he Is Persuing and sometimes dissapears for 20 mins half hour, and il call him and whistle throughout this time and il give up an carry on walking an the dog will randomly appear, exhausted and it's really doing my head in any advice in how to get his attention to come back

The main problem with a high drive dog is that if he doesn't see you as part of his drive process , he sees you as getting in the way of his inbred instincts,,a high drive dog has such a pull to his quarry ,such an attraction its almost magnetic,,and your calling and f ing him out of it cant possibly get a response,

he doesn't see you as part of his hunting group,there is no group mind between you 2, he is probably a terrific dog apart from this,

but once he gets charged either through scent or sight , you dont exist,,because he feels 100,000 volts of prey energy coursing through his body ,and he needs to run that energy out either through catching and destroying something orally or hunting up so that all the energy is used up,,that is the basis of drive,,

basically if you think of what your dog wants to do with quarry is sink his teeth into it , it is such a pleasurable feeling for the dog its all he want to do , its freedom and heaven for your mutt and that why hes drawn to it ,,its like a fix the ultimate high,,

in the off season i channel my dogs drive into pulling and tugging and ball play,,it may seem very simple and not in keeping with lurcher work but it develops a group mind between us , the mutt see's me as a way of using his energy in a group process and plants a seed in the dogs mind that i can become apart of his drive not a barrier to it,,

bull bred animals are ideal for this process,,and their love of a certain item of play can be used as a handle to get them to focus on you,,

i would try and get him more focused on you, get him mad about a toy ,the toy in turn will generate his drive in time,and the positive of that is you then control his drive in that instance,,you then start looking for behaviours from him so he can access what he wants , which in turn can be developed further

You can fry the mutt with a collar all you like , but i would try develop some sort of a bond,,sorry its a bit long winded bud ,best of luck with whatever you do,,

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zapping a dog when its doing something it shouldnt is fine but when its doing something where in another situation it is fine then you have a problem. best not slip the dog if you think there might be a problem. i got a bull x bitch off a lad i know, told it was stock broken found out it wasnt the hard way but after the collar treatment she is good just need to use them correctly. dont zap it for chasing things that normally it would be allowed to.

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