Re painting or re staining stock

[chilly 59]

Hi all, I'm thinking about painting or re staining the stock of my springer , as it is quite battered , if any ones got any helpful advice or even any links to a good guide how to go about striping and re finishing the stock ,

 

Or even better if any ones got an old battered hw95 stock lieing around for me to have a go at

 

Thanks

[Ron Weasley 83]

I saw an HW95 stock on eBay for about £25 the other week mate.

 

I refinished mine myself - and it was a bit of a labour of love really. First off, use some paint stripper to completely remove the laquer, then wash it, let it dry, and sand it using very fine wet and dry paper. If it's dented, you should be able to life them out by placing a damp tea towel over the dent and then using a hot iron on it.

 

Think carefully about whether you want to paint it or refinish it to a more classic state. If you want to paint, there are some Plastidip type sprays about that some of the guys on here know a lot more about than me.

 

Personally, I finished mine with a gunstock oil. I think it's meant for walnut, but it bought the beech up really nicely. I gave it several coats. All in all, it took a few weeks, but I did f**k it up a few times.

 

This is how mine looks now; I'm pretty happy with it.

http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/topic/205634-red-hot-springer-action/

[chilly 59]

Looks good mate , did you cover the oil with a laquer to protect it ?

 

What I was thinking if I could get another stock I would do one painted and one stained , plus that way I would still be able to use the rifle while doing one stock

[Ron Weasley 83]

Nope, it's just oiled mate. Several coats of oil. I can't remember exactly the process I used, it was more than 10 years ago now.

[pianoman 3,587]

Hot Iron over a wet tea-towel is still the best method for steam-raising dents and dings out of your Beech or Walnut stock. Do it gradually and one at a time. Nitro-Morse is a very effective preparation for cleaning and preparing the surface of a beech or walnut stock, for oil-finishing.

 

Best way to oil a stock I know, is hand rub it .

 

Use the heel and palm of your bare hand to massage the oil into the wood. This causes better friction that warms the grain and opens the pores of the wood to get the oil worked in. There's lots of good stuff like London Stock Oil Finish and Nickerson's English Walnut Stock Preparation. Never used Tru-Oil before but, it seems to do the job well. There's a bit of preparation work required to get the best results with Tru-Oil, and you can buy a complete stock finishing kit that has all you need, I think.

 

You don't laquer or varnish the oil finish. Building up a gradual oiling by hand leaves a beautiful, natural oil sheen that brings out the full beauty of the wood grain.

 

 

Simon

Edited June 5, 2011 by pianoman

[andyfr1968 772]

Hot Iron over a wet tea-towel is still the best method for steam-raising dents and dings out of your Beech or Walnut stock. Do it gradually and one at a time. Nitro-Morse is a very effective preparation for cleaning and preparing the surface of a beech or walnut stock, for oil-finishing.

 

Best way to oil a stock I know, is hand rub it .

 

Use the heel and palm of your bare hand to massage the oil into the wood. This causes better friction that warms the grain and opens the pores of the wood to get the oil worked in. There's lots of good stuff like London Stock Oil Finish and Nickerson's English Walnut Stock Preparation. Never used Tru-Oil before but, it seems to do the job well. There's a bit of preparation work required to get the best results with Tru-Oil, and you can buy a complete stock finishing kit that has all you need, I think.

 

You don't laquer or varnish the oil finish. Building up a gradual oiling by hand leaves a beautiful, natural oil sheen that brings out the full beauty of the wood grain.

 

 

Simon

 

Use the heel and palm of your bare hand to massage the oil into the wood. This causes better friction that warms the grain and opens the pores of the wood to get the oil worked in.

 

Got me all hot and bothered, that bit!!!

 

Good advice though and as Simon's said, never laquer or varnish over an oil or wax finish, only do that on bare wood

[chilly 59]

Thanks for the advice , how hard wearing will an oil finish be in comparison to a varnished finish ?

 

I've had a little look around e bay for another stock would like to do one in a traditional way and one painted

[andyfr1968 772]

Thanks for the advice , how hard wearing will an oil finish be in comparison to a varnished finish ?

 

I've had a little look around e bay for another stock would like to do one in a traditional way and one painted

 

If a varnished stock takes a hard knock or scratch then it's going to need stripping and re-finishing again to keep it perfect.

 

With an oil or wax finish is far easier to fix the odd bump or scrape. Follow Simon's advice about removing dents and if it picks up a light scratch just very gently rub it down with wire wool or very fine grade emery cloth and re apply some oil or wax to bring the finish back

Edited June 5, 2011 by andyfr1968

[bud 5]

I bought one of the Tru-Oil kits for my S200. To be honest i wasn't overly impressed and found it hard work to achieve a satisfactory finish. Saying that, in the right hands, I'm sure its a brilliant kit and would produce good results, just seemed harder than it should to me. I ended up painting the stock with Plasti-Kote, which took a few coats but i am pleased with the results and think it has improved the look of the gun.

 

Paul.

[Mrs Mole 74]

Apologies if the appears to be a silly question, but I have a few little dents in one of my rifle stocks, I read with interest Simon's advice on ironing these out. Simon could you please tell me what iron temp is best, steam or dry setting? Any advice would be welcomed.

 

Mary

Edited June 7, 2011 by Mrs Mole

[bud 5]

Apologies if the appears to be a silly question, but I have a few little dents in one of my rifle stocks, I read with interest Simon's advice on ironing these out. Simon could you please tell me what iron temp is best, steam or dry setting? Any advice would be welcomed.

 

Mary

 

I don't think it would really matter, as long as it is hot enough to produce steam. The key is the wet towel/cloth as the steam causes the wood fibers to swell. The swollen fibers then need sanding before refinishing. This method can only be used on bare wood though i believe.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Paul.