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A few questions for the more experienced snerpers


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I am thinking of putting together two traditional 50yard webs out of sheet netting for solely for netting at night, i am thinking of using two and an eighth mesh in either 4z or 6z which do you old hands recommend. And what size mesh either two or two and an eighth, also i will be using hazel wands so what is the ideal length and thickness for these. Can someone also explain why the top and bottom lines have to be free running in the net and end pins, when i would of thought when you run the web out and start pegging up you are actually tie,ing the head and foot lines in. Last question what is selvidge or what does it mean ? I look forward to your answer. ATB Gents

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I am thinking of putting together two traditional 50yard webs out of sheet netting for solely for netting at night, i am thinking of using two and an eighth mesh in either 4z or 6z which do you old hands recommend. And what size mesh either two or two and an eighth, also i will be using hazel wands so what is the ideal length and thickness for these. Can someone also explain why the top and bottom lines have to be free running in the net and end pins, when i would of thought when you run the web out and start pegging up you are actually tie,ing the head and foot lines in. Last question what is selvidge or what does it mean ? I look forward to your answer. ATB Gents

 

I would recommend 4z...Its holds the rabbits well :victory:

 

For the mesh size, I would choose 2 1/8 giving you 4 1/4 on the diamond...Its up to you

 

For Hazel wands, a good estimate would be as thick as your index finger, they look light when your cutting them, but they will season up well.

 

As for the mesh free running on the lines, if I understand you properly, yes you tie hitch them onto your pegs, but in between they run free, it needs to be like this to and have some slack / bag to catch and hold the rabbits...

 

A selvedge is on the edge of the net, similiar to the mesh only doubled...Its doubled as a single line wouldnt stand up to the movement and therefore heat of the mesh rubbing on the head and foot lines and would eventually fall apart through damage.

 

Good luck netting

 

Daynet.jpg

Edited by Fat-Ferret
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My pegs are from my armpit to the end of my fingers (almost) i set my net 18/20 inch but i like extra lenght on the peg if the ground is soft so i can push it in to the ground a little deeper.

 

the rest is as above

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Thanks fatferret and smithie for your speedy reply, would you suggest 10 pegs for a 50 yard web and also working solo would you suggest two 50 yard webs or a 50 and two 25 yard webs or what combo would be best. I am a little bit concerned about using 4z as i am worried maybe to light for a novice and tangle and pic up crap on the drop, your thoughts on this please gents ? ATB

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Thanks fatferret and smithie for your speedy reply, would you suggest 10 pegs for a 50 yard web and also working solo would you suggest two 50 yard webs or a 50 and two 25 yard webs or what combo would be best. I am a little bit concerned about using 4z as i am worried maybe to light for a novice and tangle and pic up crap on the drop, your thoughts on this please gents ? ATB

 

Cut yourself 2 dozen pegs, and practice, you may find you need ten, you'll probably find you need a few less, its what suits yourself. The rest you will always have for when you loose one or maybe break one.

 

As for nets, its a personal choice thing, 2 x 25yards would be easier to work, but more pins, possibly more pegs as well.

 

If it was me, I would go for 2 x 50 yards and practice a lot in the day time hours, if you find them awkward you can cut them down

 

Dont be concerned about 4z - Its not too light for you, it will lift a little more nonsense from the ground, but the lighter weight is worth it, in my opinion anyway.

 

:victory:

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The reason for the lines needing to be free flowing through the end pins is, when pegging up you use more line on the head line than on the foot line.

 

When you peg the net down you use a single turn on the foot line and a clove hitch on the head line. But, in turn if you did not have the lines free running through the end pins over a couple of drops it would put the net out of sync if the lines were tied onto the end pins and not allowed to ajust themselves as they do with the free running lines.

 

As for the rest fat ferret and smithie are spot on.

 

TC

Edited by tiercel
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