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As some may know my latest rifle came equipped with a Hawke Map Pro 4-16x50 scope. With my latest add ons (Combro 625 chrono) and Longridge Laser Range Finder I set up on the range today. Now the first thing to do with a combo like this is to get a FPE value, this is because the Hawke comes with free software, that accurately predicts the flight of the pellet. It gives you POI values for all magnifications, this software gives you the point to set your zero at (for mine it was 32 metres). Well set up scope on the range, penny sized grouping at 32 metres. Unfortunately the range is not much longer than 32 metres, so zeroed up and then went to the permission!

 

First bunch of kits were at 56 metres (well outside the range I normally shoot at), using the card I made I checked the mag setting I needed to hit it, x8, dialled it in, the kits head looked as big as a barn door. I carefully aimed at the kill zone, aimed and it went down. This scope, rf and software makes a damned effective outfit.

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If you think a Hawke MAP 6 reticle is lethal moley, try a Hawke SR12 on an accurate .22 with a properly calibrated mildot via Chairgun...JEEEEZ!

 

My HW77 is absolutely deadly with the 6-18x44 SR12 it has, mounted to it.

 

If this rifle deserves a name, I should be calling it "Major Konig".

 

It has a look and handling feel that reminds me of the beautiful Mauser K98 that Ed Harris used in that particular movie!

 

Simon

Edited by pianoman
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If you think a Hawke MAP 6 reticle is lethal moley, try a Hawke SR12 on an accurate .22 with a properly calibrated mildot via Chairgun...JEEEEZ!

 

My HW77 is absolutely deadly with the 6-18x44 SR12 it has, mounted to it.

 

If this rifle deserves a name, I should be calling it "Major Konig".

 

It has a look and handling feel that reminds me of the beautiful Mauser K98 that Ed Harris used in that particular movie!

 

Simon

 

would that be that movie that more four keep over playing by any chance?? :gunsmilie::big_boss::gunsmilie:

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Moley why are you zeroed at 32m? As choosing a kill zone of 1"/25mm in chairgun and adding my pellet weight, fps from my chrono and then letting the software pick the zero range best suited it comes out at 25m and believe me, being zeroed at 25m makes the use of range cards obsolete for airgun ranges as, depending on your magnification you either go up in intervals of 10m or 5 meteres per mildot or tie bar, and that is regardless of reticle holdover bars as they are all pretty similar.

 

Whats your fps and pellet weight?

 

As a side note, yes SR12 is superb,If I had a MAP6 I would sell :thumbs: it as even a generic Mildot is easier to sort out sensible zero and holdover without the need for sniper range cards, just a thought.

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I have a 60 metre range for zeroing and practice sessions with each 5-metre target point carefully measured out. Using Chairgun, my HW77 is zeroed at 25 metres and, using 15 mag, the mildots and tiebar crosshairs are bang on 30-35-40-45-50-55 metres. With 60 metres at the tip of the bottom post.

 

I tighten up my grouping to one hole accuracy by shooting on the 3rd mildot at 35 metres and the fifth mildot tiebar at 45 metres.

 

That brings everything within lethal range to 60 metres.

 

It's all a matter of accurate range estimation after that. Moley, I reckon with your rangefinder and those pcps you are now shooting with, you'd be deadly with this scope system properly profiled to your rifle and pellet.

 

Simon

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The BRC came out with 32m as the zero point, so that is what I set up to using the pellet data for the AAs! I did as the software told me, it works for me! I am using the card as the scope is new to me and I need to learn the hold over points and mag settings, takes me months to remember me own damned mobile number when I change it!

Edited by secretagentmole
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Moley, tell me the following:

 

What is you:

pellet size - 177 or 22

pellet type (pellet weight in gr)

your average chrono of feet per second - or average foot pounds

Your scope height - ie height in MM from centre of scope lens to centre of rifle bore.

 

 

Hawke BRC is not as good as the main Chairgun programme, BRC will not come up with your optimum zero for trajectory.

 

If you bother to come up with the answers for the above questions you can then enter them in the chairgun programme and under the menu button 'tools' a drop down menu appears, choose 'optimize' then 'trajectory'. Set a kil zone of 1" and it will give you the best zero distance to use along with a start and finish distance that you can use the centre crosshairs for ie 8m to 30m for example before any holdover/holdunder is required.

 

Sorry if Im teaching you to suck eggs mate but BRC is just for reticle stickers, not for coming up with a starting point for best zero and magnification options.

 

 

At the end of the day if your doing static shooting at various distances and have all the time in the world to look at range cards for every zoom magnification and distance you will soon lose the will to go out and shoot anything but fixed paper targets.

 

A lot of guys on here use a 30/30 reticle to deadly effect, its even easier wth a mildot once you start setting your sero and zoom level to match the reticle going up in either increments of 5m or 10m, the job is then very easy.

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