bird 9,864 Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 the bottom line is you (carnt) make them retrieve if they dont want to. And even if they like dummy work, when they go on a live rabbit ,all that training can go out of the window. What ive done with all my lurchers over tha last 25 years, is (dont) make a big deal over it. Make the dummy work fun, throw it then run off they will bring it back to you. If they are droping short, dont stand still when they come back with it, keep moving it will then try to get close to as it can. Regards rabbits, do the same its (only) a rabbit, when they catch move off . If the pup or dog wants to be with you, they will want get by you. just think like this if you got )good) recall , it dont matter whats in its mouth it should come to you, so keep working on its recall. Bryn last week Quote Link to post
sean925 2 Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 My whippet bitch done the exact same thing I think it came from early treat training. She would drop dummy/ rabbit skin for treat at an early age on retrieve. Then when treats stop she still retrieved everytime but would drop at my feet. Then when live rabbits came into play she dropped and the first one or two took of again she soon clicked she now 16 months still retrieves lth so I was lucky enough may work for u but if the dog kills the rabbit after the strike this method obviously not gonny work Quote Link to post
Casso 1,261 Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 I started to train my first lurcher I got her at six months old she had no work done with her.I got some great tips from a friend and i have her doing everything excepet retreiving to hand.She drops the dummy at my feet or a couple of feet past me.Any suggestions? as the man said , dont make a big deal of it, the dummy shouldn't be the main focus of desire, playing with you should be the deal for the dog, it has to be fun , if it becomes a chore for the dog , he'll opt out and find something else to do, the pup is coming to a stage where her drive is kicking in, use it to your advantage, tease her with the dummy and then hold it away from her , get her to jump up , plenty of physical contact ,it works wonders on the bond between you, run off let her chase and bump into you, then throw the dummy then run away from her, you see its not the dummy that should be important its running back with something to play with you that really cements the bond, Quote Link to post
J Darcy 5,871 Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Personally I don't think food/treats are in any way beneficial to gaining a polished performance on the retrieve.... I don't want the retreive to be a 'game' or 'fun', I want it to be a 'conditioned act' But, we each have our own methods Good Luck....JD Quote Link to post
bulls4life 2 Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Thanks for the reply but dont think ill be giving tha a go he's a big strong dog and wouldt realy wana run tha chance of my pinkys being in the way [bANNED TEXT] he trys gerring a better grip because of me trying to separate his jaws with my hands thanks any way taffyboi thumb and finger each side of the jaw fela saves those pinkys and gives you a hand free Quote Link to post
Catcher 1 639 Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 No matter how mutch you train them on the dummy to retreive to hand.A lot of young dogs will drop a live rabbit at your feet.Why they do this i havent a clue.I find after the dog has to chase again and lose a few.They soon learn not to let go until they are told.atb. Catcher. Quote Link to post
Phil Lloyd 10,738 Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Nice picture JD... Quote Link to post
Catcher 1 639 Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 CHALKWARREN mosts of my lurchers are reteiveing woodpigeon/magpie/squirrel.Long before the see a rabbit, Quote Link to post
redbull1 0 Posted March 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Personally I don't think food/treats are in any way beneficial to gaining a polished performance on the retrieve.... I don't want the retreive to be a 'game' or 'fun', I want it to be a 'conditioned act' But, we each have our own methods Good Luck....JD I agree she,s doing everything just droping it short or droping it behind me.She still young jd. Quote Link to post
redbull1 0 Posted March 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 the bottom line is you (carnt) make them retrieve if they dont want to. And even if they like dummy work, when they go on a live rabbit ,all that training can go out of the window. What ive done with all my lurchers over tha last 25 years, is (dont) make a big deal over it. Make the dummy work fun, throw it then run off they will bring it back to you. If they are droping short, dont stand still when they come back with it, keep moving it will then try to get close to as it can. Regards rabbits, do the same its (only) a rabbit, when they catch move off . If the pup or dog wants to be with you, they will want get by you. just think like this if you got )good) recall , it dont matter whats in its mouth it should come to you, so keep working on its recall. Bryn great pics thanks last week Quote Link to post
vld 62 Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 I started to train my first lurcher I got her at six months old she had no work done with her.I got some great tips from a friend and i have her doing everything excepet retreiving to hand.She drops the dummy at my feet or a couple of feet past me.Any suggestions? Teach it to hold the dummy on the command "hold" by placing the dummy in its mouth and gently hold it shut, saying hold, keep doing this until it holds on command it works, then when retrieving as it comes in say hold, until you are ready to take it off it and use another command for release, dead or ta, whatever. Good luck. I,ll give it ago thanks.that sounds good. all of the above sound credible techniques redbull,heres one that has worked for me in the past......on the retrieve,hold the bunny and with your free arm place it under the dogs waist an raise its back end up off the floor,normally the more stubborn the dog the higher the lift,but on doing this pick a command as stated before an stick with it,there is something about the imbalance that feels strange to the dog and it should drop what is in its mouth as a reaction.....then hopefully every time it hears this command it associates it with the wierd feeling of being imbalanced.........hope you solve it mate,all the best an good luck sorry red bull my reply was meant for taffyboi....my mistake Quote Link to post
J Darcy 5,871 Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Nice picture JD... It would have been if i had got the bloody thing in focus! I think I need a refresher course in photography! Quote Link to post
Simoman 110 Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Not all dogs will retrieve, some are never taught but do it naturally, when i was training competition dogs I saw many dogs taught the "forced" retrieve, not particually pleasent but very effective..... Quote Link to post
artic 595 Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Personally I don't think food/treats are in any way beneficial to gaining a polished performance on the retrieve.... I don't want the retreive to be a 'game' or 'fun', I want it to be a 'conditioned act' But, we each have our own methods Good Luck....JD What big hands you have, all the better to................. Quote Link to post
J Darcy 5,871 Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Personally I don't think food/treats are in any way beneficial to gaining a polished performance on the retrieve.... I don't want the retreive to be a 'game' or 'fun', I want it to be a 'conditioned act' But, we each have our own methods Good Luck....JD What big hands you have, all the better to................. Pick my big nose with!!! (thought i had better get that in before some other barsteward did!) Quote Link to post
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