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My first lurcher looking for pup soon


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Hi , I'm looking to get my first lurcher soon , I've convinced the wife but need to do a little work to some kennel space out the garden before I get a pup so there is some where for the new dog and my other one while I'm out ,

 

I'll be honest the dog is not going to see huge amounts of work with me , it's mainly going to be ferreting and day time mooching around, I don't do a lot at the mo but by the time the dog gets to it's first proper working season my son will be in school so will have much more time on my hands to get out and enjoy some work. I don't do any lamp work but will be starting when the dog is ready, as night time will be the ideal time to get out when the family and kids are tucked up in bed.

 

I now some reading this may think that I should not get a lurcher if I can't give it masses of work , but this dog will be living in with the family and my other dog, and will be loved and be as much a pet as my other dog is when not out working .

 

I'm thinking from what in have read that a 1/4 collie 3/4 gray will suet me and my needs , being from what I have read a good choice for a first lurcher , and a good rabbit dog that has the possibility to turn it's hand to other things should my interest change

 

So I am looking for a 1/4 collie x 3/4 gray pup bitch , if any one nows of any litters worth looking at that are on the way or planned please let me now

 

Any info or advice or opinions given will be much appreciated

 

Thanks

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but ant he a old man now he may not work his dog now but back in the day he was out 5 day's a week to whot i have nown as when i got in to lurcher's i looked in to the coliey x i looket at the plummer lurcher and hancock

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Just had a look at his website , first think that I noticed is all his stud dogs are Merls , is this because merl pups sell faster or more expensive ?

 

look at it the way i woud if you have moor than 1 stud dog whot one do you use the best one if its not to close to the bich

 

he runs moor than one line as well ie..border merls line and there is anuther line in the border but cant remember the dog's name then you got you'r berded line

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Just had a look at his website , first think that I noticed is all his stud dogs are Merls , is this because merl pups sell faster or more expensive ?

 

look at it the way i woud if you have moor than 1 stud dog whot one do you use the best one if its not to close to the bich

 

he runs moor than one line as well ie..border merls line and there is anuther line in the border but cant remember the dog's name then you got you'r berded line

WE WAS SUROUNDED BY THE RUBBISH IN B HAM IN THE 80S HE NEVER WORKED THEM BACK THEN . ONLY EVER SEEN ONE GOOD ONE

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Just had a look at his website , first think that I noticed is all his stud dogs are Merls , is this because merl pups sell faster or more expensive ?

 

look at it the way i woud if you have moor than 1 stud dog whot one do you use the best one if its not to close to the bich

 

he runs moor than one line as well ie..border merls line and there is anuther line in the border but cant remember the dog's name then you got you'r berded line

WE WAS SUROUNDED BY THE RUBBISH IN B HAM IN THE 80S HE NEVER WORKED THEM BACK THEN . ONLY EVER SEEN ONE GOOD ONE

 

I'm not trying to stick up for DH as you don't see that many this far North but my mate had a 1st x beardie about 15yrs ago and that was a fabulous worker (though as a 1st x it wasn't the leggiest dog so generally worked on small stuff... 15 yrs ago 'pre ban') and I've yet to see any dog better it at obedience.

 

There's also the law of averages that breed enough dogs and a percentage of them will turn out to be good-uns regardless of them not being from working stock. Obviously good proven stock should give you a higher percentage of good workers so I'd be looking for tried and tested parents! However, that does raise the issue of if you are talking 1st X C/G where will you find tried and tested Collies and Greyhounds these days?

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