Zeroing in new scope

[marlin14 0]

just bought my first rimfire with a new scope and want to know the best way to zero it in.Most of my shooting will be done between 75-110yds mainly on rabbits , any help appreciated.

Edited February 27, 2011 by marlin14

[dave1372 83]

....rather than write some long speil check out youtube there is tons of stuff on there.

Edited February 28, 2011 by dave1372

[marlin14 0]

  On 27/02/2011 at 20:39, dave1372 said:

....rather than write some long speil check out youtube then is tons of stuff on there.

Thanks Dave , have done , good advice cheers

[RicW 67]

I'm not coming the old acid here mate, but if you're new to shooting, over 100 yds is a long shot at a rabbit with a .22lr. Better to keep below odd until you're used to the drop.

 

Ric

[kingnewport 19]

  On 27/02/2011 at 15:53, marlin14 said:

just bought my first rimfire with a new scope and want to know the best way to zero it in.Most of my shooting will be done between 75-110yds mainly on rabbits , any help appreciated.

 

should if got a HMR then really

[Deker 3,478]

  On 01/03/2011 at 07:26, kingnewport said:

  On 27/02/2011 at 15:53, marlin14 said:

just bought my first rimfire with a new scope and want to know the best way to zero it in.Most of my shooting will be done between 75-110yds mainly on rabbits , any help appreciated.

 

should if got a HMR then really

 

 

Most people tend to zero their .22lr around 60 yards, 75-110 is certainly capable for the .22lr, but personally I too would suggest that distance spread is better suited for HMR or WMR (sorry, I can't bring myself to say HM2).

 

For those calibres zero half way, around 90-95 yards and then all you have to do is point and shoot, if you miss it is your fault and not the tool!

 

ATB!

[kingnewport 19]

I alway shot my .22 , say 75 yards max really . That's why I went for a hmr for the longer shot. A 22 is always handy tho cos there sor quite

[allydog 4]

65 yard zero wid winchester subs then learn your distances anything up to 100 yards should be easy enough

[chickenman 4]

Remember to centre the turrets first, count how many clicks there are then half, gets you the centre. Then mount the scope loosely and bore sight( do a search) you may need to shim the scope with VERY thin slivers of plastic, negatives are good for this. Once its pretty near to zero by eye..(looking through the bore )....then you can use the turrets to fine tune. Then take it shooting and do a final zero. This way you will not put excessive strain on the scope and will have lots of free play on the turrets as sometimes you will run out of 'play' on the turrets with cheaper scopes.

[Deker 3,478]

  On 01/03/2011 at 23:27, chickenman said:

Remember to centre the turrets first, count how many clicks there are then half, gets you the centre. Then mount the scope loosely and bore sight( do a search) you may need to shim the scope with VERY thin slivers of plastic, negatives are good for this. Once its pretty near to zero by eye..(looking through the bore )....then you can use the turrets to fine tune. Then take it shooting and do a final zero. This way you will not put excessive strain on the scope and will have lots of free play on the turrets as sometimes you will run out of 'play' on the turrets with cheaper scopes.

 

 

Seems I am back to this a bit late, but if you have to shim your scope or run out of adjustment play at .22lr distances you seriously need to throw away the scope and start again!

[dadioles 68]

  On 11/03/2011 at 17:46, Deker said:

  On 01/03/2011 at 23:27, chickenman said:

Remember to centre the turrets first, count how many clicks there are then half, gets you the centre. Then mount the scope loosely and bore sight( do a search) you may need to shim the scope with VERY thin slivers of plastic, negatives are good for this. Once its pretty near to zero by eye..(looking through the bore )....then you can use the turrets to fine tune. Then take it shooting and do a final zero. This way you will not put excessive strain on the scope and will have lots of free play on the turrets as sometimes you will run out of 'play' on the turrets with cheaper scopes.

 

 

Seems I am back to this a bit late, but if you have to shim your scope or run out of adjustment play at .22lr distances you seriously need to throw away the scope and start again!

 

You are spot on chickenman. Set the scope turrets to their centre position and use thin plastic shims to get close. Some scopes just don't have enough adjustment in their turrets and you can never be too sure how things will line up. A scope adjusted so that its "springs" are near centre works better.

The Nikon Monarch series are pretty good scopes but you run out of clicks really quickly if it is not setup properly in the first place.

[Deker 3,478]

  On 11/03/2011 at 21:24, dadioles said:

  On 11/03/2011 at 17:46, Deker said:

  On 01/03/2011 at 23:27, chickenman said:

Remember to centre the turrets first, count how many clicks there are then half, gets you the centre. Then mount the scope loosely and bore sight( do a search) you may need to shim the scope with VERY thin slivers of plastic, negatives are good for this. Once its pretty near to zero by eye..(looking through the bore )....then you can use the turrets to fine tune. Then take it shooting and do a final zero. This way you will not put excessive strain on the scope and will have lots of free play on the turrets as sometimes you will run out of 'play' on the turrets with cheaper scopes.

 

 

Seems I am back to this a bit late, but if you have to shim your scope or run out of adjustment play at .22lr distances you seriously need to throw away the scope and start again!

 

You are spot on chickenman. Set the scope turrets to their centre position and use thin plastic shims to get close. Some scopes just don't have enough adjustment in their turrets and you can never be too sure how things will line up. A scope adjusted so that its "springs" are near centre works better.

The Nikon Monarch series are pretty good scopes but you run out of clicks really quickly if it is not setup properly in the first place.

 

 

The Nikon Monarch is/was available in an air rifle version, that means you will be unlikely to make it work over long distances without shimming, etc.

 

If you have a problem making ANY scope work at .22lr distances without shimming you have the wrong scope.