irishnut 297 Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 well folks i've decided to buid myself a toy, i'm starting a landy project, haven't decided whether to use a 90 truck cab or 110, road comfort or off road bliss, budget means i'll be having pre 1990, obviously with best chassis and bulkhead i can find i'm only interested in converting the engine and box, and uprating the suspension. not gonna be interested in radical stuff like 5"lift with fully rose jointed 3 point linkage. so is there any advice for me, is 200tdi easier to slip in or is it better to get a 300 in. basic plan will be tdi engine and auto box, and new gearbox tunnel electric thermostatically controlled fan with manual over ride 2" lift in suspension, glynn lewis castor correction radius arms and hd trailing arms, old man emu shockers and heavy duty front and rear springs, dis/relocating cones at rear rear disc break axle polybushed mud collection areas will be plated to stop collection on rear x member & out riggers clean, stone chip and waxoyl chassis pump the bulkhead with waxoyl series doors with military tops rock sliders, body rub strips heavy duty front winch bumper and bull bar, x9.5 winch i have 5 of bfg m/t's 265/75 r16 for road use, 5 insa turbo special track in same size for off road safari snorkel with multi direction top, axle and box breathers second alternator and replace both batterys, start with red top, winch with yellow top optima dual fuel tanks, existing tank, and td5 between the chassis legs tank. h4 light conversion chequer plate load liner and double terrier and tool box. diff guards, sump and steering guard, td5 tank guard and regular tank guard(part of tree/rock sliders) 4 6"x4" roof mounted spots, 2 rear cab mounted rotating work lights. swing away spare wheel inside gets subaru impreza bucket seats on normal runners 14" momo steering wheel cd player, 4 speakers in total connected to bluetooth cb, with 4 foot roof mounted spring aerial. centre locking cubby box water tight fuse box under bonnet sound insulation bulkhead,seat box,roof & floor sound mat. plus major service, ie all oils, seals, bearings, axle swivels, belts, water pump, injectors renewed 90% of this stuff i have gathered from other landys over the years or can fabricate. but which engine do i use 200 or 300 tdi. if just down to picking a favorite then its the 300tdi, i'm pretty sure they would fit in just the same, but not 100% Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stiggy 6 Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 300 tdi easier to fit due to location of turbo, 90 or 110?? all the challenge lads seem to have gone 100 inch with auto box and v8. i prefer the 300 in my 110. i used the disco box and moved the sticks back , may go auto in future. for me it was easier to place the transfer box in original position and move engine mounts as the props stay the same. waxoil was a waste of time for me, i used it in chasis but outside it gets rubbed off to easy a small steering wheel can be a pain in the arse, range rover classic ones are ok. if you fit imprezza seats how do you get to batteries? i have thought of this and had a set out of a skyline but stayed original. good luck , take lots of pics!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jordb543 9 Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 sounds like it will be a smart landy mate cant wait to see the pics , from what ive heard the 300 is easier but the 200 will be cheaper, ive never had a 90/110 i prefer series landies, so cant offer any advice but i will be checking here for progress on the project so i can pinch a few ideas for a 109" crew cab project that i may be starting end of this year, good luck mate im sure you will love doing it and driving it when its done whatever you choose Quote Link to post Share on other sites
irishnut 297 Posted February 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 300 tdi easier to fit due to location of turbo, 90 or 110?? all the challenge lads seem to have gone 100 inch with auto box and v8. i prefer the 300 in my 110. i used the disco box and moved the sticks back , may go auto in future. for me it was easier to place the transfer box in original position and move engine mounts as the props stay the same. waxoil was a waste of time for me, i used it in chasis but outside it gets rubbed off to easy a small steering wheel can be a pain in the arse, range rover classic ones are ok. if you fit imprezza seats how do you get to batteries? i have thought of this and had a set out of a skyline but stayed original. good luck , take lots of pics!!!! i'm going belt and braces with stone chip and waxoyl, but things may have changed in last few hours, as the galvanising company just come back with a good price of £250 for chassis and £100 for bulkhead, much cheaper than i thought. i like the smaller wheel, yes its a pain, but i'm allowed to have a ball on the wheel. i'm hoping to move both batteries into engine bay. i forgot to comment last night on the gearbox oilcooler, for this i will be using the bog brush style pipe, but doulbed up, this is a very important part. if i'm honest, the 90 appeals more at the moment purely on looks. i intend to keep a photo step by step, with a digital camera, so i can put it on cd. this will be my 8 landy in 10 years, but this will be finished to a perverted quality as its staying, i want a minimum of 3 years of driving without a leak or squeak, so thats why its getting done perfect to start Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stiggy 6 Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 not sure if you will have room for batteries under bonnet, i used a 300 tdi disco radiator with the intercooler and oil cooler built in , easy fit in the normal space. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
irishnut 297 Posted February 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 not sure if you will have room for batteries under bonnet, i used a 300 tdi disco radiator with the intercooler and oil cooler built in , easy fit in the normal space. the oil cooler from the disco is smaller than i want, i will be doing mostly off roading in this machine, and in terrain that will make the auto box very hot, i had thought to connect a bog brush pipe to underside of the rad your taking about, but its not really compatable or easy to connect them. maybe i'm over engineering, is yours same spec as i'm going for? i'm hoping to get a battery up front on drivers side, and just infront of the bulkhead at nearside, all with some careful wing trimming, i've seen it done already, but unfortunately never took details of the work done Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fidodido 30 Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 well folks i've decided to buid myself a toy, i'm starting a landy project, haven't decided whether to use a 90 truck cab or 110, road comfort or off road bliss, budget means i'll be having pre 1990, obviously with best chassis and bulkhead i can find i'm only interested in converting the engine and box, and uprating the suspension. not gonna be interested in radical stuff like 5"lift with fully rose jointed 3 point linkage. so is there any advice for me, is 200tdi easier to slip in or is it better to get a 300 in. basic plan will be tdi engine and auto box, and new gearbox tunnel electric thermostatically controlled fan with manual over ride 2" lift in suspension, glynn lewis castor correction radius arms and hd trailing arms, old man emu shockers and heavy duty front and rear springs, dis/relocating cones at rear rear disc break axle polybushed mud collection areas will be plated to stop collection on rear x member & out riggers clean, stone chip and waxoyl chassis pump the bulkhead with waxoyl series doors with military tops rock sliders, body rub strips heavy duty front winch bumper and bull bar, x9.5 winch i have 5 of bfg m/t's 265/75 r16 for road use, 5 insa turbo special track in same size for off road safari snorkel with multi direction top, axle and box breathers second alternator and replace both batterys, start with red top, winch with yellow top optima dual fuel tanks, existing tank, and td5 between the chassis legs tank. h4 light conversion chequer plate load liner and double terrier and tool box. diff guards, sump and steering guard, td5 tank guard and regular tank guard(part of tree/rock sliders) 4 6"x4" roof mounted spots, 2 rear cab mounted rotating work lights. swing away spare wheel inside gets subaru impreza bucket seats on normal runners 14" momo steering wheel cd player, 4 speakers in total connected to bluetooth cb, with 4 foot roof mounted spring aerial. centre locking cubby box water tight fuse box under bonnet sound insulation bulkhead,seat box,roof & floor sound mat. plus major service, ie all oils, seals, bearings, axle swivels, belts, water pump, injectors renewed 90% of this stuff i have gathered from other landys over the years or can fabricate. but which engine do i use 200 or 300 tdi. if just down to picking a favorite then its the 300tdi, i'm pretty sure they would fit in just the same, but not 100% sounds very expensive Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stiggy 6 Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 it aint that bad if you can do the work yourself.i have ended up with a 110 7 seater for not a huge amount of money. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
irishnut 297 Posted February 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 well folks i've decided to buid myself a toy, i'm starting a landy project, haven't decided whether to use a 90 truck cab or 110, road comfort or off road bliss, budget means i'll be having pre 1990, obviously with best chassis and bulkhead i can find i'm only interested in converting the engine and box, and uprating the suspension. not gonna be interested in radical stuff like 5"lift with fully rose jointed 3 point linkage. so is there any advice for me, is 200tdi easier to slip in or is it better to get a 300 in. basic plan will be tdi engine and auto box, and new gearbox tunnel electric thermostatically controlled fan with manual over ride 2" lift in suspension, glynn lewis castor correction radius arms and hd trailing arms, old man emu shockers and heavy duty front and rear springs, dis/relocating cones at rear rear disc break axle polybushed mud collection areas will be plated to stop collection on rear x member & out riggers clean, stone chip and waxoyl chassis pump the bulkhead with waxoyl series doors with military tops rock sliders, body rub strips heavy duty front winch bumper and bull bar, x9.5 winch i have 5 of bfg m/t's 265/75 r16 for road use, 5 insa turbo special track in same size for off road safari snorkel with multi direction top, axle and box breathers second alternator and replace both batterys, start with red top, winch with yellow top optima dual fuel tanks, existing tank, and td5 between the chassis legs tank. h4 light conversion chequer plate load liner and double terrier and tool box. diff guards, sump and steering guard, td5 tank guard and regular tank guard(part of tree/rock sliders) 4 6"x4" roof mounted spots, 2 rear cab mounted rotating work lights. swing away spare wheel inside gets subaru impreza bucket seats on normal runners 14" momo steering wheel cd player, 4 speakers in total connected to bluetooth cb, with 4 foot roof mounted spring aerial. centre locking cubby box water tight fuse box under bonnet sound insulation bulkhead,seat box,roof & floor sound mat. plus major service, ie all oils, seals, bearings, axle swivels, belts, water pump, injectors renewed 90% of this stuff i have gathered from other landys over the years or can fabricate. but which engine do i use 200 or 300 tdi. if just down to picking a favorite then its the 300tdi, i'm pretty sure they would fit in just the same, but not 100% sounds very expensive it sounds very expensive, because it could be , as i say i have 90% of the fittings, only bits missing are truck, engine and gearbox, insa turbo tyres. new swivels. all work is done by myself. total cost will be less than £2500, if it was a manual it would be less than £2000(based on experience), but i can't take an auto box apart myself to recon it, so i'm sending it away, he told me £500 was worst case senario Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Clark 7 Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 (edited) That sounds like one fun project, and expensive. The galvanising sounds good, a lot of people say doing the bulkhead is a pain because the steel is quite thin in a lot of places and in fairly large unsupported sheets which tend to wrinkle. Not that is stops people getting them dipped. If you are going down that route I'd get them both dipped in de-ruster so any areas of tin worm can be sorted before they go for galving. One thing to be aware of is which type of vehicle to donor engine is coming from. The 200 & 300 tdi when originally fitted to the Defender have the turbo mounted high on the near side of the engine bay but they were fitted low down on Discos. I know a lot of people had problems fitting Disco engines into pre-Fender 90/110 because they had not been aware of this, but there are plenty of manifolds about so all you'd have to do is get hold of the right one. But why not go totally overboard and get something like a Cummins 6BT or GM 6.5TD, ok you're going to need entirely new transmission from drive members up to cope with the torque, but it would be fun. Knowing the size of the engine bay on my landy and the size of the 200 tdi that resides therein I doubt you'll get the batteries in with the engine. I can see the attraction in moving them but the near side is full of intake & exhaust manifold, washer bottle, air filter and cab heater. The only place is if you fabricated a bridge between the off side wing and the engine but even there you are covering up things like the injector pump and lift pump and the coolent expansion tank will get in the way. I would just beef up the box under the passenger seat and put them in there, it isn't as though there isn't room for two batteries in there. (Talking of which, I need to rebuild the battery box on mine, tin worm is attacking) Any way, best of luck with the project and have fun. Edited February 16, 2011 by Alan Clark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chid 6,542 Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 just a question.... why do you need to move the batteries? even if you fit you impreza seats you could still have them underneath... just wire a plug what bolts to seat base/battery box and then make your self a set of jump leads with the plug on one end and croc clips on the other if you need a jump start ... wont need to get to the batteries unless they need changing , which for how often that will be ,taking the seat out aint to much hasall ... this is what we had on our tow truck at work so we wasnt feckin about trying to connect jump leads to the battery everytime we needed to jump someone Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chid 6,542 Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 alan i have worked on many cummins 6bt engines and i think you'd be asking alot of a landrover to take one in weightwise and roomwise , but sure if you put your mind to it , you'd get it in lol... btw the cummins 6bt engines are crackers very hardy engines that can take abuse and they aint alot what goes wrong with them Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chid 6,542 Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 well the cummins engine does fit in and here is a link for you irishnut .... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=23202 get it done lad you know you want to Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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