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hi lads :) just wondering who uses a range finder ? and how usefull do you find them ? what are the do's and dont's and what ones would you reccomend ? the reason im asking is because im planning on calibrating my mildots on my hawke reflex 3-9x40 and i take it you need a range finder for when your hunting ?.

thank you in advance :victory:

brad

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hi lads :) just wondering who uses a range finder ? and how usefull do you find them ? what are the do's and dont's and what ones would you reccomend ? the reason im asking is because im planning on calibrating my mildots on my hawke reflex 3-9x40 and i take it you need a range finder for when your hunting ?.

thank you in advance :victory:

brad

 

 

hi buddy

i use a guntuff

 

http://www.jsramsbottom.com/products/rangefinders/gtlrf-guntuff-laser-rangefinder-18---400-yard--meter-[cr2-battery-included].html

 

but i think the price has gone up?

i got mine for £89.95

 

any ways you don't necessary need one for calibrating your mildot,s

 

all you have to do is measure out from 8yds/mtrs to 45yds/mtrs and place a target at each 8,10,15,20,25,30,35,40,45 distance.then zero at 30yds if .22 and 35yds .177 fill your rifle up to 170bar and take a shot at each target and make a note(mental,paper) and then you have calibrated your scope to these ranges!

 

then when you get a range finder calibrate your scope to your range finder!! :thumbs:

 

hope this helps

 

regards

 

davy

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its an aas410carbine .22 - so say i had it zero'ed spot on the crosshairs at 30yds ,and then i took at shot at 40 or 45yds with the crosshairs on the bullseye and it hit low.....i then move one of the lower mildots to the bullseye and work it out from that ? so basically you remember what distance is what mildot ,correct? thank you for the link and help btw.

i think i will invest in a range finder after i get some money saved :victory:

thank you

brad.

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its an aas410carbine .22 - so say i had it zero'ed spot on the crosshairs at 30yds ,and then i took at shot at 40 or 45yds with the crosshairs on the bullseye and it hit low.....i then move one of the lower mildots to the bullseye and work it out from that ? so basically you remember what distance is what mildot ,correct? thank you for the link and help btw.

i think i will invest in a range finder after i get some money saved :victory:

thank you

brad.

 

 

hi buddy

yes that's correct!

if your zeroed @30yds then a target at 40yds should be i mil hold over!! :thumbs:

 

regards

 

Davy

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I'm not being funny, Lampingboy but have you ever actually used 'your' 410?

 

You've been asking about lamps saying that you'd not be shooting at 'over 100 meters', mildot scopes, NV and now lazer rangefinders...... :hmm:

 

We've all got to start somewhere and a little range time is a good place to set off from before getting into high tech kit 'cos you don't even seem to understand the very basic fact that you may have to aim a little higher when the range increases....

 

You say you've shot before but not for some time, fair enough but didn't your previous experience even teach you the most basic of basics????

 

Cheers.........

Edited by andyfr1968
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im 15 now and shot from when i was about 8-13 on and off but not very regular,i had my s410 for christmas i think 3 years ago and then focused on my bikes. all i really did before was some target shooting in one of my fields and occasionly went for a bit of shooting with my dad on some permission where my mum used to keep her horses,as i say i dont have any real experience .so im starting new and dont want to pickup bad habbits and want to soak up as much info as i can.obviously i understand at a longer range you have to aim a little higher,but my question was ''how much higher'' i never understood mildots untill now , so if i was going for a long shot on targets i would aim a little higher but never know the correct amount,hence asking information about mildots. Ive also asked about other equiptment ie a range finder as ive seen si use them when using mildots so i was generally gathering knowledge.Also ,most of my shooting is in the evenings and night after school with my mate hence the lamp.

hope this explains a little.

brad

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:thumbs: Fair comment, Brad.

 

The best advice I could give you is to get as much practice on targets as you possibly can before going after live quary.

 

Good on you for asking questions but don't get too hung up on technology before you've got a handle on the basics. Take your time, mate, practice then practice some more.

 

Set up your zero, 25-30 yards is a good starting point then practice at as many different ranges as you can. Your maximum killing range is whatever range you can place pretty much all your shots within around a 20mm circle.

 

Good luck with it, fella :thumbs:

 

Cheers.

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No worries, Brad :thumbs:

 

See if you can find some of Si's (zini) vid's on here or Youtube, they'll help to answer a lot of your questions much better.

 

All I can do is words, Si's vids can take you through it much better than I can :thumbs:

 

Edit to say.... As I've said, don't get sucked in to all the techno stuff, you've really got to get to grips with the basics first... :thumbs:

Edited by andyfr1968
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Hi buddy

if i remember correctly si zeros a 22 cal at 25meters.

Because it is closer to the kill zone. On all distance above 30yard is what i zero at.

 

Also buddy if your out shooting with a friend. Make sure he is 21years old other wise your breaking the law

 

good luck

 

regards

 

Davy

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HI Brad,

 

Regarding your original questions buddy.

 

A good and trailed and tested range finder, used by quite a few of the regular experienced shooters in this section is the GunTuff laser range finder (LRF).

 

I purchased mine form JS Ramsbottom on the internet and got it at the cheaper price like Davy about 2 years ago and it’s still going strong.

 

This range finder is very accurate out to 400 metres, and about 2 weeks ago when Tony (Phantom) was at my house for the week we laid a tape measure out on the ground out to 60 metres and put targets out every 5 metres so that I could self calibrate my mildots on my Ultra.

 

When we had set the targets out I checked them with the GunTuff LRF and it was smack on the button.

 

I find the range finder very useful for day time shooting especially from a hide when you can laze the quarry without being seen or when static hunting and you laze yourself 25 metres (.22 calibre) from the front of the warren (centrally) and then laze the far left and far right of the warren, then the far side (depth wise) of the warren.

 

What this enables you to do is then know exactly what range each part of the warren is. You can then just provide the correct amount of hold over for which ever shot arises making for accurate kills every time.

 

Remember though if a rabbit runs out the warren and towards you, you will then need to apply a slight bit of hold under to bring the pellets trajectory slightly down to meet the scopes line of sight (LOS) at the closer range.

 

As Davy says you don’t need a LRF to go hunting or to calibrate your mildots, and to be honest I have only been using one for about 2 years now. They are a big help though and have definitely improved my overall kill rate to shots.

 

Before I would say that out of every 10 shots I took when hunting I would hit 6 correctly due to poor range estimation. With the GunTuff it’s more like 8 out of every 10 shots taken now.

 

Obviously this only works though if you know your hold over and under points on your mildots.

 

As Andy say, its always better to get the basics of shooting right first before you try something a little more advanced, not that shooting is anything taxing, its really all about practice and gaining experience buddy at all different ranges until you are confident in your own abilities.

 

My final point is about the calibration of your mildots. If you decide to do it please remember this very important fact.

 

Do it on a scope magnification like x6, a magnification that you can use fine for both day and night time shooting.

 

The reason I say this is as soon as you calibrate your mildots on a magnification then change that magnification for another one the mildots will not shoot to what you thought and you will 99% miss the kill zone or the target altogether, usually low as most people always turn their scopes magnification higher.

 

This is due to the lower the mag the less adjustment will be seen on the mildots and the higher the mag the more will be needed. So if you calibrate on x6 then take a shot on the x6 mildot but on x 10 say the pellet will impact low due to not enough pellet lob (hold over).

 

The only thing that will not change when you change the scope magnification is the 2 zero points 1 and 2.

 

They will always be on the cross hair no matter what mag you choose to shoot on.

 

Hope this helps buddy.

 

Si

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