for the new to hunting guide

[hunter1989 91]

hi hunters

 

here is some tips and how to choose your rifle when starting the hunting game

 

CHOOSING YOUR AIR RIFLE

 

Things to consider:-

 

Are you fit/strong enough to cock, and cock and cock a springer?

Springers are a little harder to shoot, if you wish to hunt will you get enough practice?

Springer are often heavy, will you have to carry it?

Springers are affected by increased altitude.

Springers are mostly single shot.

Springers tend to be less expensive.

Springers need Air Rifle rated scopes and mounts

Springers are self contained, all you need is a good arm and some pellets.

Springers cannot be totally silenced as the action makes noise.

Springer are the most fun you can get from any air rifle.

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Co2 Power.

 

Things to consider:-

 

Is Co2 available?

Quality Co2 rifles other than dedicated target guns are hard/imposable to get.

Most Co2 rifles are inexpensive.

If you use a lot of Co2 it will become expensive. As much as 4 to 5p per shot in a long barrel Ratcatcher producing 10+FPE but a lot less with a low power fun gun.

 

Is the area you live in warm? Co2 is best at over 70 DegF

Co2 rifle MV’s can change significantly with changes in ambient temperature. A Mil Dot scope can be used to compensate.

Lower power Co2 rifles make fine plinking guns and the custom versions can be made to produce up to 18 or so FPE becoming good moderate powered hunters.

No felt recoil so any Scope/Mount combination should work.

Co2 guns are great fun to customize and work on; from an inexpensive base you can produce a “Silk Purseâ€. NB. This is addictive it cost me £££.

Can be silenced with a moderator or barrel shroud.

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Pre-Charged Rifles.

 

If you want much over 20 FPE PCP’s are the most realistic option. Remember to budget for the rifle, a scope, scope mounts and charging

 

 

Things to consider:-

 

PCP rifles are usually more expensive often running to very high prices.

Capable of higher power (< FPE) with out much increase in weight or difficulty in shooting.

Usually (but not always) relatively light in weight.

Not having any felt recoil these rifles are very easy to shoot with amazing accuracy.

Often fitted with multi-shot magazines - ideal for hunting

Can be silenced with a moderator or barrel shroud, if un-silenced they are often loud.

No felt recoil so any Scope/Mount combination should work.

Not Self Contained.

HPA supply.

Stirrup pumps, these cost less than bottles but every one I know who HAD one has given up and gone for a bottle. Pumps require more effort that cocking a springer.

HPA Bottles, is filling available locally?

 

Bottle/gauge combo – expensive. Filling is usually not expensive £3 would be typical.

Always try to get a 300Bar bottle as it will fill your rifle more times than a lower pressure bottle of the same size.

Carbon Fibre vs Steel. Carbon Fibre bottles have a limited life span of 15 years and are easier to damage than Steel. However they are VERY much lighter and so easier to handle. I prefer Carbon Fibre

 

starting rabbit shooting

The first and most obvious thing you need to think about when hunting small game, is where are they located? You need to watch your surroundings for a few days/weeks and learn where the rabbit/squirrel/etc. is hanging out at. Of course this isn't totally necessary if you have been hunting for a while and can "spot" good locations. Or if you want to have the fun of spending forever finding the animal...if that is fun to you.

 

Another thing to consider is buying hunting dogs if you think you will be doing lots of hunting. These dogs can be trained to do about anything, but they are especially beneficial in squirrel and rabbit. If using a dog hunting squirrel, the dogs will often scare the squirrels causing them to hop from tree to tree...or the other way around, the dog will tree the squirrel and you can shoot it out of its nest, if you find that ethical. The dogs will usually assist in retrieving the downed squirrel. When hunting for rabbits with dogs, the dogs "jump" the rabbits, and cause them to come out of hiding, and good dogs will run the rabbit right to you.

 

Another tip is to think about what kind of weapon you will be using. If you are going to be doing some distance hunting, shooting farther than 25 yards, then a .17 or .22 caliber rifle, would be a good choice. If you are going to be hunting birds especially, or hunting animals within 25 yards, then a .410, .28, or .20 guage shotgun with the appropriate load would be adventageous to your hunt. And for the real challenge, you can use a bow, and eqipt your arrows with small game tips, but you need to be a fairly great archer, or expect to lose arrows.

 

Knowing when the prime time to hunt is, will be very beneficial to having a fun hunt, and not a boring day! Most of the time, the best time to hunt small game is early morning, from 30 minutes before sunrise, to about 2 hours after sunrise, and about 1 hour before dark. These are the times of day that I have found to be the best times to hunt small game!

 

Finally, the most important thing you should do, is look up and be aware of your state and local hunting laws. Do not hunt out of season, and make sure to obey all laws.

 

 

 

 

 

 

RABBIT HUNTING

To successfully hunt rabbits you must be of a patient nature, especially if you are using a .22 rifle or air-rifle, the weapons of choice for many hunters especially in the UK.

 

Rabbits are by their nature very wary animals, having so many natural predators has created in them an extremely honed survival instinct, so anything that looks out of place will be avoided for a long time until it becomes part of the natural background. Because of this good camoflague clothing is a must, by being able to blend into the natural vegetation is only to your advantage.

 

Before approaching your hunting area you must first check wind direction, always approach with the wind in your face wherever possible, your smell travels much further than you realise and this will cause your targets to dissapear way before you are anywhere near them. As you get closer to your lying up area you will need to lower your body and create as low a profile as possible, not only will this help you to move closer towards your quarry but will also cause you to slow down your movements, and slow movements are vital to get you as close to the rabbits as possible.

 

OK, you are now in position, your rifle is loaded and you are taking aim, the kill zone of a fully grown rabbit is about the size of a clenched fist so now is not the time to practice getting your marksmen skills. You should by now be able to group at least 5 shots in a 5cm group from out to 25 meters, if not you should not be taking aim at any living creature. If you cannot take a clean shot and achieve a clean kill then keep practicing on paper or knockdown targets until you can.

 

Many times when hunting rabbits you will be taking shots at a grazing rabbit, the kill zone is covered and you cannot guarantee a clean kill, I have found that by making a "tutting" noise the rabbit will raise its head, giving you enough time to take the shot. If you are using an air-rifle you may be able to bag more than one rabbit before the more alert turn and run for home. A rim-fire rifle may create too much noise, but I have known the crack of the shot only raise heads throughout the field before they turn back to nibbling on their grass.

 

When hunting, always remember to gain the landowners permission, a person running about a field in camoflague clothing and a rifle may creat the wrong kind of interest.

Always remember to shoot responsibly, shoot safely and use your marksmenship principles to cause the least amount of suffering to the animals you are hunting.

 

 

hope this out you new ones out

 

atb steve

[Marksman 934]

hi hunters

 

here is some tips and how to choose your rifle when starting the hunting game

 

CHOOSING YOUR AIR RIFLE

 

Things to consider:-

 

Are you fit/strong enough to cock, and cock and cock a springer?

Springers are a little harder to shoot, if you wish to hunt will you get enough practice? Practice is a MUST BEFORE attempting to shoot ANY living thing

Springer are often heavy, will you have to carry it?

Springers are affected by increased altitude.

Springers are mostly single shot.

Springers tend to be less expensive.

Springers need Air Rifle rated scopes and mounts

Springers are self contained, all you need is a good arm and some pellets.

Springers cannot be totally silenced as the action makes noise.

Springer are the most fun you can get from any air rifle.

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Co2 Power.

 

Things to consider:-

 

Is Co2 available?

Quality Co2 rifles other than dedicated target guns are hard/imposable to get.

Most Co2 rifles are inexpensive.

If you use a lot of Co2 it will become expensive. As much as 4 to 5p per shot in a long barrel Ratcatcher producing 10+FPE but a lot less with a low power fun gun.

 

Is the area you live in warm? Co2 is best at over 70 DegF

Co2 rifle MV’s can change significantly with changes in ambient temperature. A Mil Dot scope can be used to compensate.

Lower power Co2 rifles make fine plinking guns and the custom versions can be made to produce up to 18 or so FPE becoming good moderate powered hunters.

No felt recoil so any Scope/Mount combination should work.

Co2 guns are great fun to customize and work on; from an inexpensive base you can produce a “Silk Purseâ€. NB. This is addictive it cost me £££.

Can be silenced with a moderator or barrel shroud.

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Pre-Charged Rifles.

 

If you want much over 20 FPE PCP’s are the most realistic option. Remember to budget for the rifle, a scope, scope mounts and charging

 

 

Things to consider:-

 

PCP rifles are usually more expensive often running to very high prices.

Capable of higher power (< FPE) with out much increase in weight or difficulty in shooting.

Usually (but not always) relatively light in weight.

Not having any felt recoil these rifles are very easy to shoot with amazing accuracy.

Often fitted with multi-shot magazines - ideal for hunting

Can be silenced with a moderator or barrel shroud, if un-silenced they are often loud.

No felt recoil so any Scope/Mount combination should work.

Not Self Contained.

HPA supply.

Stirrup pumps, these cost less than bottles but every one I know who HAD one has given up and gone for a bottle. Pumps require more effort that cocking a springer.

HPA Bottles, is filling available locally?

 

Bottle/gauge combo – expensive. Filling is usually not expensive £3 would be typical.

Always try to get a 300Bar bottle as it will fill your rifle more times than a lower pressure bottle of the same size.

Carbon Fibre vs Steel. Carbon Fibre bottles have a limited life span of 15 years and are easier to damage than Steel. However they are VERY much lighter and so easier to handle. I prefer Carbon Fibre

 

starting rabbit shooting

The first and most obvious thing you need to think about when hunting small game, is where are they located? Disagree slightly here...Do you think you are capable of making a clean kill?? You need to watch your surroundings for a few days/weeks and learn where the rabbit/squirrel/etc. is hanging out at. Of course this isn't totally necessary if you have been hunting for a while and can "spot" good locations. Or if you want to have the fun of spending forever finding the animal...if that is fun to you.

 

Another thing to consider is buying hunting dogs if you think you will be doing lots of hunting. These dogs can be trained to do about anything, but they are especially beneficial in squirrel and rabbit. If using a dog hunting squirrel, the dogs will often scare the squirrels causing them to hop from tree to tree...or the other way around, the dog will tree the squirrel and you can shoot it out of its nest, if you find that ethical. The dogs will usually assist in retrieving the downed squirrel. When hunting for rabbits with dogs, the dogs "jump" the rabbits, and cause them to come out of hiding, and good dogs will run the rabbit right to you.

 

Another tip is to think about what kind of weapon An air rifle is NOT a weapon, as weapon is such defined as to kill or injure humans you will be using. If you are going to be doing some distance hunting, shooting farther than 25 yards, then a .177 or .22 caliber rifle, would be a good choice. If you are going to be hunting birds especially, or hunting animals within 25 yards, then a .410, .28, or .20 gauge shotgun with the appropriate load would be adventageous to your hunt. And for the real challenge, you can use a bow, and eqipt your arrows with small game tips, but you need to be a fairly great archer, or expect to lose arrows.

 

Knowing when the prime time to hunt is, will be very beneficial to having a fun hunt, and not a boring day! Most of the time, the best time to hunt small game is early morning, from 30 minutes before sunrise, to about 2 hours after sunrise, and about 1 hour before dark. These are the times of day that I have found to be the best times to hunt small game!

 

Finally, the most important thing you should do, is look up and be aware of your state and local hunting laws. Do not hunt out of season, and make sure to obey all laws.

 

 

 

 

 

 

RABBIT HUNTING

To successfully hunt rabbits you must be of a patient nature, especially if you are using a .22 rifle or air-rifle, the weaponsrifle of choice for many hunters especially in the UK.

 

Rabbits are by their nature very wary animals, having so many natural predators has created in them an extremely honed survival instinct, so anything that looks out of place will be avoided for a long time until it becomes part of the natural background. Because of this good camoflague clothing is a mustnot always necessary but can be advantageous, by being able to blend into the natural vegetation is only to your advantage.

 

Before approaching your hunting area you must first check wind direction, always approach with the wind in your face wherever possible, your smell travels much further than you realise and this will cause your targets to dissapear way before you are anywhere near them. As you get closer to your lying up area you will need to lower your body and create as low a profile as possible, not only will this help you to move closer towards your quarry but will also cause you to slow down your movements, and slow movements are vital to get you as close to the rabbits as possible.

 

OK, you are now in position, your rifle is loaded and you are taking aim, the kill zone of a fully grown rabbit is about the size of a clenched fistkill zone of a rabbit is 2.5cm or 1" so now is not the time to practice getting your marksmen skills. You should by now be able to group at least 5 shots in a 5cm grouptry half of that from out to 25 meters, if not you should not be taking aim at any living creature. If you cannot take a clean shot and achieve a clean kill then keep practicing on paper or knockdown targets until you can.

 

Many times when hunting rabbits you will be taking shots at a grazing rabbit, the kill zone is covered and you cannot guarantee a clean kill, I have found that by making a "tutting" noise the rabbit will raise its head, giving you enough time to take the shot. If you are using an air-rifle you may be able to bag more than one rabbit before the more alert turn and run for home. A rim-fire rifle may create too much noise, but I have known the crack of the shot only raise heads throughout the field before they turn back to nibbling on their grass.

 

When hunting, always remember to gain the landowners permission, a person running about a field in camoflague clothing and a rifle may create the wrong kind of interest.

Always remember to shoot responsibly, shoot safely and use your marksmenship principles to cause the least amount of suffering to the animals you are hunting.

 

 

hope this out you new ones out

 

atb steve

 

Nice post Steve, I've just amended a couple of bits I think you may have got wrong though.

If I am wrong I stand corrected

 

Darryl

[salukiwhippet 6]

Ummm, how are springers affected by altitude? And I don't think the bit about bowhunting's very relevant to the UK, with it being illegal and all....

Good effort though!

 

James

[Phantom 631]

Hey Steve,

 

Totally agree with what Darryl has corrected you on

 

Take it you did a copy and paste from some American/Australian site?

The Bow hunting thing was a dead give away and indeed in Australia the KZ of a rabbit is what you say with a "Varmint" tipped or "Broad Head" Arrow/quarrel. But in our kind of hunting, 2.5cm unless you know the anatomy of the bunny inside out and/or have finely honed Marksmanship skills and know all the KZ's

 

Phantom

[ArchieHood 3,692]

So is my Air Rifle not a weapon def: a thing designed or used for inflicting bodily harm or physical damage.I can see the Court Of Appeals going to be busy in the New Year.

[Phantom 631]

So is my Air Rifle not a weapon def: a thing designed or used for inflicting bodily harm or physical damage.I can see the Court Of Appeals going to be busy in the New Year.

 

And that is what I mean Archie they were many decades ago designed for just that, now they are designed for plinking, hunting and small vermin control. So I say they are not weapons as such they are our tools implements or guns Only to the uneducated, anties and people trying to ban them and of course those pricks with ears who would use them for such as you stated; but then a Biro, mans tie, womens tights and a babies feeding bottle can also be used as weapons, by those inclined to do so!

 

I prefer the term Air gun, Air Rifle and Air Pistol rather than weapons because the term "Weapon" gives the impression that we are using them for the purpose of harming another human being.

 

Phantom

[ArchieHood 3,692]

So is my Air Rifle not a weapon def: a thing designed or used for inflicting bodily harm or physical damage.I can see the Court Of Appeals going to be busy in the New Year.

 

And that is what I mean Archie they were many decades ago designed for just that, now they are designed for plinking, hunting and small vermin control. So I say they are not weapons as such they are our tools implements or guns Only to the uneducated, anties and people trying to ban them and of course those pricks with ears who would use them for such as you stated; but then a Biro, mans tie, womens tights and a babies feeding bottle can also be used as weapons, by those inclined to do so!

 

I prefer the term Air gun, Air Rifle and Air Pistol rather than weapons because the term "Weapon" gives the impression that we are using them for the purpose of harming another human being.

 

Phantom

Very good reply mate,I was just pointing out the legal technicality.I would hate to think a numpty would do something daft because "Its not a weapon".

[hunter1989 91]

hi lads

 

yh i copyed asnd pasted it

 

thanks for the editing marksman top bloke

 

atb steve