BSA Ultra Multishot

[DeerhoundLurcherMan 997]

Hi all, bought a BSA Ultra Multi-shot about 8 months ago, can anyone tell me how to get more power out of it, I'm guessing its nearly 12ftp already? but being a .22 I think it would be much more usable if it had a flatter path of trajectory for longer? will upping the power help this? or should I consider chopping it in for a .177? and advise welcome, thanks in advance.

[Phantom 631]

Wheeeeellllll,

 

If its already close on the 12 you aint gonna get any flatter, unless you have a FAC with a spare slot or two.

 

Anyhow's if you can shoot straight and you are a competant Marksman, you don't need to worry about a flatter trajectory.

 

Phantom

[pianoman 3,587]

Hi DeerhoundLurcherman...!

 

Sorry if I'm wrong but, I get the impression you are not a highly experienced air rifle shot.

 

There's no reason to tune up the power to FAC levels or switch to .177. You just need to understand your pellet's trajectory loop from the power at your rifle's muzzle a bit better. And how it relates to your scope's reticle in the sightpicture. IE, where your shot is actually going under shorter, and over longer ranges than your basic zero.

 

For example, if you zero at 25 yards and you want to be able to hit a target 15-20 yards further on, you need to raise the muzzle a tad in order to extend the range and to lob the pellet onto the target. Or your shot will fall short.

 

You may also have a little left or right drift from zero-centre to take into account. It depends on how accurately you can estimate your amounts of aim-off and hold-over that will determine weather you will hit your target or not.

 

To find all this out needs practice at shooting at targets closer and further than your zero and to develope the ability to shoot accurately outside of the centre-to-centre point of the crosshair. Mildot reticle scopes will help you greatly to determine your pellet's loop trajectory path and establish aim-off points to enable you to quickly calculate where exactly to hold-over or hold-under.

 

I shoot with FAC power rifles and sub 12ft/lb ones in .22. And I zero both to a precise 30-metre zero-range. I soon still found I can miss a target at closer ranges a lot more easier than I can at longer ones. There is still a trajectory to be learned with all types of power levels and calibres with air weapons,because rats and rabbits seldom appear precisely at the range we zero at.

 

Put some range-time in practicing and you'll soon get the hang of what your rifle is doing downrange.

[festa 206]

Hi DeerhoundLurcherman...!

 

Sorry if I'm wrong but, I get the impression you are not a highly experienced air rifle shot.

 

There's no reason to tune up the power to FAC levels or switch to .177. You just need to understand your pellet's trajectory loop from the power at your rifle's muzzle a bit better. And how it relates to your scope's reticle in the sightpicture. IE, where your shot is actually going under shorter, and over longer ranges than your basic zero.

 

For example, if you zero at 25 yards and you want to be able to hit a target 15-20 yards further on, you need to raise the muzzle a tad in order to extend the range and to lob the pellet onto the target. Or your shot will fall short.

 

You may also have a little left or right drift from zero-centre to take into account. It depends on how accurately you can estimate your amounts of aim-off and hold-over that will determine weather you will hit your target or not.

 

To find all this out needs practice at shooting at targets closer and further than your zero and to develope the ability to shoot accurately outside of the centre-to-centre point of the crosshair. Mildot reticle scopes will help you greatly to determine your pellet's loop trajectory path and establish aim-off points to enable you to quickly calculate where exactly to hold-over or hold-under.

 

I shoot with FAC power rifles and sub 12ft/lb ones in .22. And I zero both to a precise 30-metre zero-range. I soon still found I can miss a target at closer ranges a lot more easier than I can at longer ones. There is still a trajectory to be learned with all types of power levels and calibres with air weapons,because rats and rabbits seldom appear precisely at the range we zero at.

 

Put some range-time in practicing and you'll soon get the hang of what your rifle is doing downrange.

you deserve an sp for that simon mate good on you for taken time out to explain

atb gary

[hunter1989 91]

say no more explained brilliant and the best it can be explained

 

spa for me

[DeerhoundLurcherMan 997]

Indeed very helpful, much appreciated!! I think my problem is judging distance! especially at night under the lamp which is more of a beam of light so I cant see what is in-between me and my target.

 

I constantly try to get that bit closer to my 25 yards target, which often ends up spooking any bunny's, I don't like to try anything over 25 yards because my pellets seems to drop very quickly once past this distance, which at night seems impossible to judge and achieve a clean kill.

 

I use a hawke map pro? with the milli dots, will put in the practice, thanks for your advise.

Edited November 24, 2010 by DeerhoundLurcherMan

[rossy08 33]

Indeed very helpful, much appreciated!! I think my problem is judging distance! especially at night under the lamp which is more of a beam of light so I cant see what is in-between me and my target.

 

I constantly try to get that bit closer to my 25 yards target, which often ends up spooking any bunny's, I don't like to try anything over 25 yards because my pellets seems to drop very quickly once past this distance, which at night seems impossible to judge and achieve a clean kill.

 

I use a hawke map pro? with the milli dots, will put in the practice, thanks for your advise.

hi there pal

 

go to hawke optics.com and download there chairgun pro softwear its free and if you enter your data it will show you the filght path of your pellet, i found this very usefull and it has aided me with my shooting no end.

 

just need to work on juddging distances, and as im crap at it i'v got my self a laser and will be zeroing it at 30 same as my scope. then when flicking the laser on, if its bang on the cross hairs then i no its 30. if its over by one mill dot ill no its more like 35-38. again chair gun pro will help you with all this.

 

hope it helps mate

atb

Andy

[markha 99]

I guess as well that you thought your rifle was underpowered because you could see the pellet dropping away drastically in your lamp light? Dont worry about this, we pretty much all see the pellet at night as the skirt catches the lamp light and especially with .22 calibre it looks like the pellet could never punch through a paper bag!

 

Try setting your zero at 35yds and getting some practice on paper targets at that range and also closer.

 

Visit the land you go lamping in, in daylight, then you can work out some accurate distances between objects ie from the gate where you enter to the closest hedge, or nearest fence post etc, so you have a better idea of ranges and landmarks to use at night when wandering around the field boundaries.

 

And dont worry, 12ftlbs is more than enough to do the job, and yes as others have said, the flight path of a .22 pellet is not that flat For example, I zerod at 35yds, now if the target is closer, say 25-30yds then I have to use the mildot above the crosshair centre. If I have to shoot something at 41yds then I have to aim using the 1st mildot under the crosshair centre,basically like this:

 

16yds = 2 mildots above crosshair centre

24yds = 1.5 mildots above

28yds = 1 mildot above

32yds = 0.5 mildot above

35yds = zeroed

38yds = 0.5 mildot Below crosshair centre

41yds = 1 mildot below

44yds - 1.5 mildots below

47yds = 2 mildots below

49yds = 2.5 mildots below

 

Now thats for my rifle and scope, it may well be very different for your gun/scope.

 

 

From the different yards/mildots I mentioned above, you can see that the flight path of a .22 pellet appears to go up as it leaves the barrel, and then starts dropping away.

In truth the real thing that happens is that the pellet starts falling inline with gravity the moment it leaves the barrel< and if we were to try and zero the scope inline with the pellet we would end up zerod on the end of the barrel and thats not great as you wouldnt be able to aim at anything!

 

So what do we do, we zero the scope to a point along the pellets direction of travel. Now if that point is 35 yards away, then you can be assured that the place where the line of sight through the scope ( crosshairs) and the pellets path cross,its going to be a heck of a lot lower than when the pellet left the end of the barrel.

 

Oops run out of time< need to go out, sorry if you knew all that and I have just tried to teach you to suck eggs mate, have a searhc on the forums you will find all you need to know.

[pianoman 3,587]

Gary, hunter1989, Big thanks to you gentlemen for your compliments

 

Simon

[darren watson 14]

i wish someone would've explained all that to me about ages ago! Markha, dont suppose you could work out all the mil-dot compensation for a 25 yard zero with crosman premiers, could you(joke, although feel free if you fancy a challenge)

[fry 209]

well put piano you beat zini to it! distance judging with the lamp is hard i went out tonight missed 2 bunnys and thought my zero had gone out then shot the third one 5mm behind the eye dead as a dodo and out of interest paced out to where it lay 27 yards i zero at 30. its all about judging distance.

[pianoman 3,587]

Hi Fry.

Nice to hear you braved this cold night and got a result for it mate . There's a peculiar effect of light in the dark viewed through the scope when shooting at night I find can be confusing. Even on the lowest mag setting, the sightpicture looks misty and cloudy. It's not an area of shooting I have great experience of but, I practice for it with range practice-shooting at targets under my gunlamp in the dark on my permission. You can annotate all the ballistic data you like but, there is no substitute for practical shooting experience. And that comes with hard practice

 

Simon

[markha 99]

i wish someone would've explained all that to me about ages ago! Markha, dont suppose you could work out all the mil-dot compensation for a 25 yard zero with crosman premiers, could you(joke, although feel free if you fancy a challenge)

 

 

Derren, get a copy of chairgun pro from here clicky

 

Then all you need to do is enter your pellet weight, your guns true ftlbs, you may need a chrono for that, plus you need to measure how high the centre of your scope is above the centre of the rifle barrel.

 

Once you enter all those details Chairgun can then work out all you need to know for each given zero range, you can even print off range cards that remind you what milldots to use at given ranges.

[Metalman2 45]

Of course something else you have to take into consideration, is the gun regged for consistancy, otherwise you have to find the sweet spot to be accurate