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hard nights lamping


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here you go deerman :thumbs:

 

Wolves are hunters, and they travel far and wide to locate prey. They may travel 50 miles or more each day in search of food, and they are superbly designed for a life on the move. Because their elbows turn inward, their lean bodies are precisely balanced over their large feet. With their long legs and ground-eating stride, they can travel tirelessly for hours on end with no energy wasted. Dispersing wolves, those leaving packs in search of their own mates, have been known to travel hundreds of miles away from their home territory. Satellite and Global Positioning Satellite (GPS) collars allow researchers to document the truly remarkable travels of wolves.

you just got that from tomo post ,so you didnt have no facts before tomo put that up ay?plus if you read it they are not like dogs are they?

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I guess a lot depends on how often you work your dog and it's diet..   A dog can run on empty as long as it has fat reserves to draw it's energy from. If you work your dog often and for extended pe

i think if youve got to put electrolyte or any other supplements in the water before a dog goes out then theres something wrong with the dog as a good healthy dog shouldnt need any extra supplements b

i agree i dont see why you should giv a running dog any supplements before a nights lamping it should be fit and ready, maybe near the end off the night after some hard runs. but thats just my opinion

when humans run,if they run easy they burn fat but if they run hard they burn carbohydrates,as fats need more oxygen to burn,if you burnt fat when you ran hard that meens you could train to run miles flat out,when you have had an hard run your body will start to burn fat when you have finished and resting,(im not sure but i would say dogs are no different to us) when lamping, most dogs run hard so they would be burning carbohydrates not fat

 

:thumbs: Ole Flint, everyone thinks he's crazy but he might just be crazy like a fox. :D

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THE BARE MINIMUM THAT EVERY HUNTER SHOULD KNOW ABOUT HDH:

Hunters who remember and consistently follow the 2 recommendations listed below, should never have to pay a veterinary bill for a dog with HDH, much less have to bury one that dies of it:

 

1. Hunters should always carry a half-pint of corn syrup (or other concentrated source of glucose) in a pocket of their hunting coat or vest. Should your dog become fatigued while hunting, watch him/her closely, and if he/she begins to appear weak or to stagger, stop all physical activity with that dog for that day, administer a couple of ounces of corn syrup by mouth, and feed him/her heavily as soon as possible (in other words, don’t wait to feed your affected dog until you normally feed your other dogs). For all practical purposes, (1) 50% glucose solution (in water), (2) corn syrup (which contains 100% glucose), (3) high fructose corn syrup (which contains 50% glucose and 50% fructose), (4) honey (which contains 50% glucose and 50% fructose) and (5) 100% natural fruit juices (with no artificial sweeteners) are all equally effective for oral treatment of HDH.

 

2. Hunters should also be aware that, on rare occasions, a dog that does not show either stage 1 or stage 2 clinical signs while hunting, may suddenly become severely hypoglycemic, shortly after the end of the hunt. Consequently, even though your hunting has ended and your dog is safely in a box, on a stakeout or in a kennel, your responsibility for the welfare of your dog does not end at that point. You must force yourself to remember to check on your dog 3 more times, at 10, 20 and 30 minutes after the end of the hunt, and be certain that he/she is behaving normally at those times.

 

 

not my own words,but a lesson learned the hard way for many a dog owner.

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THE BARE MINIMUM THAT EVERY HUNTER SHOULD KNOW ABOUT HDH:

Hunters who remember and consistently follow the 2 recommendations listed below, should never have to pay a veterinary bill for a dog with HDH, much less have to bury one that dies of it:

 

1. Hunters should always carry a half-pint of corn syrup (or other concentrated source of glucose) in a pocket of their hunting coat or vest. Should your dog become fatigued while hunting, watch him/her closely, and if he/she begins to appear weak or to stagger, stop all physical activity with that dog for that day, administer a couple of ounces of corn syrup by mouth, and feed him/her heavily as soon as possible (in other words, don’t wait to feed your affected dog until you normally feed your other dogs). For all practical purposes, (1) 50% glucose solution (in water), (2) corn syrup (which contains 100% glucose), (3) high fructose corn syrup (which contains 50% glucose and 50% fructose), (4) honey (which contains 50% glucose and 50% fructose) and (5) 100% natural fruit juices (with no artificial sweeteners) are all equally effective for oral treatment of HDH.

 

2. Hunters should also be aware that, on rare occasions, a dog that does not show either stage 1 or stage 2 clinical signs while hunting, may suddenly become severely hypoglycemic, shortly after the end of the hunt. Consequently, even though your hunting has ended and your dog is safely in a box, on a stakeout or in a kennel, your responsibility for the welfare of your dog does not end at that point. You must force yourself to remember to check on your dog 3 more times, at 10, 20 and 30 minutes after the end of the hunt, and be certain that he/she is behaving normally at those times.

 

 

not my own words,but a lesson learned the hard way for many a dog owner.

alot of people could benifit by taking note of what you have written there vin.

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I guess a lot depends on how often you work your dog and it's diet.. :hmm:

 

A dog can run on empty as long as it has fat reserves to draw it's energy from. If you work your dog often and for extended periods, it's fat reserves are going to be at a minimum so it will need something to draw it's energy from. However, if your trips out are infrequent and short, a dog should have sufficient fat reserves for the work it's doing without being fed before working.

 

PS. When I'm talking about fat reserves, I'm not on about overweight, flabby out of condition dogs. :thumbs:

 

Interesting topic. :good:

when humans run,if they run easy they burn fat but if they run hard they burn carbohydrates,as fats need more oxygen to burn,if you burnt fat when you ran hard that meens you could train to run miles flat out,when you have had an hard run your body will start to burn fat when you have finished and resting,(im not sure but i would say dogs are no different to us) when lamping, most dogs run hard so they would be burning carbohydrates not fat

 

 

..but all fat consists of is stored carbohydrate.. It's glucose converted to glycogen by the liver? When an animal has no carbohydrate in it's digestive system and blood to draw on, it starts to convert the fat back into carbohydrates. :yes:

 

In your case, your dogs are worked hard and often, so they won't have the required energy stores (fat) to draw on, so will need feeding before being worked. Other dogs not worked so hard or as often will not need feeding and will in fact benefit from being ran on an empty stomach.

 

I'm not saying you're wrong, far from it. Just trying to make the distinction between the different types of work dogs do, and the different methods. :thumbs:

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i feed my dog at 10pm unless im going out that night then i just feed when i get in,dogs digets food at different rates than us so you cant compare them to ourselves.also if you look at wild dogs and wolves you wont find them feeding then running around again six hourrs later.whos comparing them to out selves?so your saying its wrong to give them a little somthing in afternoon before that night lamping?

so your saying its wrong to feed them a little somthing at 4/5 ish before a nights lamping?if so why?whos comparing a dog to a human with slower digest as surely even if this is true ,they would get benefit half way through night ?

just thinking lads i always thought the reason for not feeding the dogs before running is that it can cause a twisted gut

anyway i always feed mine after working them

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My understanding (from Field Trial and Competitive Sled Dog people) is that a dog runs best on an empty stomach and that you want about 24hrs between it's last meal and the heavy work.

 

To avoid Gastric Torsion aka 'bloat' (from Field Trialers and Vets), feed no later than two hours before work and no sooner than one hour after work.

 

Never run a lurcher so I don't know if it's an apples to apples comparison. However my Bird Dogs have always run hard and well following the above rules. Pretty much every other person's Bird Dog I've seen run is spent in two hours or less. Mine go hard 5+hrs.

sounds about right to me :thumbs: all this bollox comparing dogs to marathon runners :blink: theyre dogs ffs not humans :thumbs:

i can see you have never seen a dog to a proper hard nights work.

i can see you lack intelligence and youve no idea what your talking about

never as the name trigger seemed so appropriate :blink:

:laugh:

I AM RIGHT THEN.

 

you can keep your so called intelligence. i will stick to common sense which you seem to be lacking.

listen,i aint getting into a petty argument with some know nothing keyboard hunter who doesnt know when to feed his own dogs :blink: as for intelligence and common sense,it seems to me that you couldnt pour piss out of a boot....with the instructions written on the heel, :feck:

do you piss in boots do you, thats intelligence for ya. i piss in a toilet thats common sense for ya.

 

just as well he doesnt piss in your boot because you wouldnt know how to pour it out, even with the instructions on the heel.

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My understanding (from Field Trial and Competitive Sled Dog people) is that a dog runs best on an empty stomach and that you want about 24hrs between it's last meal and the heavy work.

 

To avoid Gastric Torsion aka 'bloat' (from Field Trialers and Vets), feed no later than two hours before work and no sooner than one hour after work.

 

Never run a lurcher so I don't know if it's an apples to apples comparison. However my Bird Dogs have always run hard and well following the above rules. Pretty much every other person's Bird Dog I've seen run is spent in two hours or less. Mine go hard 5+hrs.

sounds about right to me :thumbs: all this bollox comparing dogs to marathon runners :blink: theyre dogs ffs not humans :thumbs:

i can see you have never seen a dog to a proper hard nights work.

i can see you lack intelligence and youve no idea what your talking about

never as the name trigger seemed so appropriate :blink:

:laugh:

I AM RIGHT THEN.

 

you can keep your so called intelligence. i will stick to common sense which you seem to be lacking.

listen,i aint getting into a petty argument with some know nothing keyboard hunter who doesnt know when to feed his own dogs :blink: as for intelligence and common sense,it seems to me that you couldnt pour piss out of a boot....with the instructions written on the heel, :feck:

do you piss in boots do you, thats intelligence for ya. i piss in a toilet thats common sense for ya.

 

just as well he doesnt piss in your boot because you wouldnt know how to pour it out, even with the instructions on the heel.

ARE YOU TAKEING THE PISS

 

lol

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Guest joely b

my dogs always get a liitle breakfast , raw tripe. then feed when get back in from a good nights lamping raw tripe agian , i do vairy there diet . meal twice aweek . then tripe again i up it more on these colder nights works for me and the dogs are jumping

Edited by joely b
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