'Noose Poles' / Animal Graspers ~ How Do We Make Them?

[witton 6]

Sorry ditch, it was only a suggestion........and im not contemplateing on doing it, i don't do any cage traping and probably never will it doesnt interest me in the slightest.

 

Sorry ditch, it was only a suggestion........and im not contemplateing on doing it, i don't do any cage traping and probably never will it doesnt interest me in the slightest.

 

So the second suggestion is out of the question but what about the first??

[Guest Ditch_Shitter]

First idea? Pinning the mink with a stick? That sort of thing works better in theory than practice, mate To start with, ye'd have to use a ' T ' shaped stick. Then ye'd have to exert so much - constant - pressure, it'd become a throttling. Most of all though, the inherant difficulty of keeping up that right pressure in what would ~ in reallity ~ fast be becoming a High Tension and awkward situation.

 

Think about it; Cage set on some uneven, possibly soft bank side? Ye may be standing badly balanced, due to vegetation or watery footing. It's a recipe for, if not a 'nasty accident' an escaped mink. That'd qualify as a Disaster!

 

No, as I can't just calmly stand back and shoot the damn thing as I've always done in the past, I'm looking for that new way of gaining Total Control of the captive and making the situation as safe as possible before I even contemplate opening that door. See? And that ammounts to having the mink secure and at least one hand entirely free.

 

It's a bugger. But life's like that

[bullsmilk 2]

there you go d.s as you can see my art skills leave a little to be desired but<<<<<<

[bshadle 5]

Here you go, DS. A prototype:

 

..................

 

I just taped it together for show. For real use, I'd drill a hole all the way through the working end, feed the cord through, and secure it with a big ol' knot. I'd pop-rivet the cleat fast, maybe bed it in epoxy for extra strength (I tend to over-engineer). It doesn't show in the picture, but the cord comes out through a slot just in front of the cleat. Drilled three side-by-side holes then reamed into a slot. The pipe is about 20" long, but that's just because that's what I had sitting around.

 

Here it is in use:

 

.................

 

That's as close as I could come to a mink on short notice.

 

Cheers.

[Guest The Shaman]

Here you go, DS. A prototype:

 

..................

 

I just taped it together for show. For real use, I'd drill a hole all the way through the working end, feed the cord through, and secure it with a big ol' knot. I'd pop-rivet the cleat fast, maybe bed it in epoxy for extra strength (I tend to over-engineer). It doesn't show in the picture, but the cord comes out through a slot just in front of the cleat. Drilled three side-by-side holes then reamed into a slot. The pipe is about 20" long, but that's just because that's what I had sitting around.

 

Here it is in use:

 

.................

 

That's as close as I could come to a mink on short notice.

 

Cheers.

 

 

Fooking Hell that is one Mean Pink Panther ( I mean mink) - I nearly God damned wet myself.

 

[Guest Ditch_Shitter]

OoooKayyy ..... Now we seem to be getting somewhere

 

Dawn; Sorry love. I sometimes have all night and a good connection. Others I smash out a word after a glance. Right now it All seems fine That's a fine 'Dog Catcher' ye have there. Wouldn't mind one myself. 'Just Because'. However, it's far too big for my exact purposes and the price scares me to death! If they did a majorly scaled down version? To hell with the cost; I'd buy one!

 

 

Bulls; The whole 'Kleat' idea is definately heading in the right direction. *BING! An idea occurrs!* (More on that in a minute!) Mheanwhile; Invest in a Scanner. Draw what ye mean on a bit of paper. Save as Jpg. Present!

 

 

Bshadle; I'm not clear on why ye'd put a hole at the Noose end. My noose just travels up inside the pipe, to come out the other end.

 

I also - initially - liked the idea of the 'loose ends' coming through a hole in the pipe, to be tied off on the kleat. But I envisage unnecassary friction / wear on the 'cord', due to it being pulled diagonally out, across that hole. With me?

 

So far then, I'm with a straight, pull through tube. Kleat set 1/3 (or there abouts) down from the pulling end. Get the noose over, Pull till secure. Wrap the loose round the kleat.

 

One problem: Plastic coated washing line is of the nature to Not wrap well. It'd tend to unfold itself from the moment ye relsease the tension on it! Probably just about as ye open that damn door!

 

 

Enter The " BING! ": I'll now go on my way,considering a shorter length of Para Cord attatched to the loose ends of the Washing Line!

 

This - wouldn't it? - gives us the stiffness of loop and 'Humane Restraint' qualities of the washing line, at one end. At the other, we have something soft and flexible enough to quickly wrap around a kleat and Not come loose half so easily! Are ye all following me on this?

 

All I really need now is a simple and effective way of attatching that kleat. I'm no good at metal work and don't own a Rivvet Gun!

[bshadle 5]

OoooKayyy ..... Now we seem to be getting somewhere

 

Bshadle; I'm not clear on why ye'd put a hole at the Noose end. My noose just travels up inside the pipe, to come out the other end.

 

I also - initially - liked the idea of the 'loose ends' coming through a hole in the pipe, to be tied off on the kleat. But I envisage unnecassary friction / wear on the 'cord', due to it being pulled diagonally out, across that hole. With me?

 

So far then, I'm with a straight, pull through tube. Kleat set 1/3 (or there abouts) down from the pulling end. Get the noose over, Pull till secure. Wrap the loose round the kleat.

 

One problem: Plastic coated washing line is of the nature to Not wrap well. It'd tend to unfold itself from the moment ye relsease the tension on it! Probably just about as ye open that damn door!

 

 

Enter The " BING! ": I'll now go on my way,considering a shorter length of Para Cord attatched to the loose ends of the Washing Line!

 

This - wouldn't it? - gives us the stiffness of loop and 'Humane Restraint' qualities of the washing line, at one end. At the other, we have something soft and flexible enough to quickly wrap around a kleat and Not come loose half so easily! Are ye all following me on this?

 

All I really need now is a simple and effective way of attatching that kleat. I'm no good at metal work and don't own a Rivvet Gun!

 

The hole in the noose end is to secure one end of the line. That way you don't have to run a double line back through the handle. Less clutter inside. This is the end of my longer snare pole for illustration.

 

...............

 

On the prototype, the hole where the cord comes out in front of the cleat is an elongated oval, about 1/2" long. Tried to take a picture of IT, but the d**n camera battery died. The cord comes out at a pretty shallow angle. With the edges of the hole smoothed, not much friction and wear. Certainly no more than regularly bending the line 180 degrees back over the end to tie off at the cleat.

 

The other problem I see bringing the cord out the back end and tieing it to a cleat in front of your hand is that the cord would be laying over top of your fingers if you had your hand wrapped around the pipe for a good grip. Might be uncomfortable, and would definitely let some play in the line. If you wanted the cord to come out the end, I'd put the cleat BEHIND where you intended to grip it.

 

Tieing para cord to plastic clothes line securely would be a tough knot to make. Maybe something like the nail knot you'd use to tie a leader to a fly line might work. I'd have to experiment with that a bit. I think once you wrapped the plastic wash line around the cleat you could keep it from springing free with a finger if the cleat's to the front, or the heel of your hand if the cleat's to the rear. Again, I'd have to fool around a bit.

 

I'd bet that you could hold the cleat in place with some good quality epoxy. Tape or wire it into place until the epoxy sets. I'd use something like JB Weld, not the cheap stuff from the local discount store. Sorry, don't know your brands and store chains there. The fitting on the end of the pipe in the above picture is held in place with epoxy, and you'd need to saw or chisel it off.

[Guest Ditch_Shitter]

Okay. I'm back. I'm half smashed. I'm just Gagging to go to bed ~ picked up another damn Rat Infestation tonight and the guy's screaming for me to get there first thing But I just can't leave this alone either!

 

 

The hole in the noose end is to secure one end of the line. That way you don't have to run a double line back through the handle. Less clutter inside.

 

 

I now see what ye getting at. It also strikes me that one, rather than two bits of 'line running up that tube makes for less of my own feared 'Friction' / drag. Maybe, if I also plug the end of the pipe with some 'Epoxy Putty' (sorry, I don't know your trade names either, but the stuff ye knead untill the colour of two parts becomes uniform) then that should - once I make a smooth pilot hole in it - provide a smoother point of draw. With me?

 

Incidently; Tip from 'our own' Mr Waters; A hammered on Nut, either side of the pipe there, would hold the static end of the 'line in place, just as well as anything .....

 

I now get ye point about the way the upper hole's made. But, way I envisage it, there should, as yet, be no problem tugging the loose end and then swinging a bit of Para Cord round a kleat. However:

 

 

Tieing para cord to plastic clothes line securely would be a tough knot to make.

 

Bugger! Would it? I'm just thinking on my feet (arse) here and hadn't really considered that far ahead yet. Ye right; Same nature of plastic coated line that'd make it Drag through holes etc. would also make it stiff / elasticly 'slow' enough to become a problem when speed is of the essance That'll need some more thinking about. For sure.

 

I'd bet that you could hold the cleat in place with some good quality epoxy.

 

What - in uk - we knew as " Araldite ". I seldom had much use for the messy, sticky, stringy stuff myself. Thus I never really used it. I wouldn't mind betting, these days, though that there's a more user friendly version available? I'll have a word in the Hardware Store in town

 

 

I'm forming an ever more solid picture of the end product here. I just need more time to mull it over in my head as I go about my business. I'm sure we'll end up at the 'Perfect' tool for the job. Heh! Then we just need sort out the US and European Patents on the damn thing!

 

 

Christ almighty; Why won't they just trust me with my customary .22 Air Pistol, over here? Save all this grief!

[bshadle 5]

Christ almighty; Why won't they just trust me with my customary .22 Air Pistol, over here? Save all this grief!

If you wanted to do the job right, you'd use the pistol on the antis and a 3" conibear on the mink!

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Body-Gripping-Trap...8QQcmdZViewItem

 

I think body-gripping traps are illegal there, aren't they?

[Guest Ditch_Shitter]

BodyGrippers? Largely thanks to the efforts of our own Phil Lloyd, they're allowed to us a couple of sizes of those (110 and 116, I believe) in UK. People do use the little 50's, on rats. British law, ragarding rat traps, is worded in a strangely open ended way and no one's yet tried a Test Case to see how, within reason, one may or may not rid oneself of rats.

 

Trouble britain has is coming up with a viable Fox Trap. Obviously, you and I know a 220 would take care of tricks. But it'd equelly take care of 'Trixie'! I know I certainly feel a lot happier, knowing none of my Dogs is ever likely to walk into someone else 220!

 

There is a well proven design available. A Foot Snare with a special type of loop, which takes fox and even badger. Holds them completely unharmed. However, the brit govt's been shilly shallying over that one for years now. They're scared to death of liscencing it; Because to do so would be to permit people to rid their land of the Gray Plague. Bring back in legalized badger removal and that could bring down a government!

 

Anyway, I'll be off into town again today. I'll call by at the Builders Merchants and check out what ever Epoxy stuffs they have there

[bshadle 5]

Know what you mean about Trixie. I don't like the larger ones myself for anything other than a water set for beaver, and then with the trigger slid to the side to make it less likely to bycatch.

 

Snares of any type just recently became legal here for a few species, and then you need a special course and certificate to use 'em. Go figure.

[bullsmilk 2]

All I really need now is a simple and effective way of attatching that kleat. I'm no good at metal work and don't own a Rivvet Gun!

use a jubilie clip mate

[daunker 0]

Why not use snare wire for the noose - much better than just string. Make a loop on one end and have prefered rope/string for kleating/wrapping up tied to it.

 

oops just seen already been said above...

Edited December 29, 2006 by daunker

[borderboy 80]

Edited February 2, 2007 by borderboy

[Guest Ditch_Shitter]

Out of a cage trap, into a body gripper trap?

 

" In Canada, one test mink passed under a 110 body grip trigger 33 times before setting the trap off " (Schmitt Enterprises Inc. 2005 - 2006 season catalogue. Page 30)

 

Bottom line is; I'm a Pest Controller. Not a gambler