carpentry timber from logs

[john b 38]

Has anyone on here successfully produced own sawn timber from their own logs ?

I have been given a couple of pieces of walnut and I'm trying to work out if I should 'cut then season' or 'season then cut'.

 

Any experience out there ?

 

Thanks

John

[riohog 5,725]

Has anyone on here successfully produced own sawn timber from their own logs ?

I have been given a couple of pieces of walnut and I'm trying to work out if I should 'cut then season' or 'season then cut'.

 

Any experience out there ?

 

Thanks

John

cut then season 3to 4 ins planks seperate planks with spacers in the log ..well ventelated ,undercover and paint the end of the planls to minimize splits

[borderboy 80]

check out Arb Talk Theres a sub forum on there called "Alaskan mill", it covers chainsaw mills and timber milling, which should give you most of the information you will need....

[moxy 617]

Season then cut. to answer.

 

The timber will be harder to cut when seasoned, but in short lengths you will struggle to keep it from splitting and miss shaping and warping.

A tightgrained hardwood is less prone to split and warp but if it dries too fast it certainly will.

 

If you have a good length with bark still on, cover each end with candle wax to stop moisture escaping. This will ensure that the ends dont split as it dries. If you notice a split occouring after waxing, re-wax and seal to stop the split progressing.

Store your length( )in a sheltered but yet aired place outside, but off of the floor, this will enable it to dry slowly.

 

Depending on the size and girth you are trying to dry, a 4' length by 8-10" dia could be ready to cut in 6-9 months.

 

Once satisfied its dry its important that once you cut it you must aclimatise your cut blank, stick it under a bench in the shed/garage for a week or so, eagerness to work your newly cut blank in your nice warm workshop may end in upset as it splits.

 

Hope this helps, if you need any more info pm me

[john b 38]

Moxy

Thanks for that - very helpful.

 

The two pieces I have are quite small and still with bark on.

The largest is likely to be the most useful and is 22in long by 7in diameter.

There is a second, much smaller piece 18in long and only 4in diameter.

 

From what you've said it seems by best option with these is to wax the ends and season them as they are.

 

Would you agree ?

 

thanks, John

[moxy 617]

I would say thats the way to go john, i use this method with all flavours of hardwoods.

If you cut before seasoning, the fresh timber is prone to splitting, warping and gathering mould. You will have to remove more of the material with a planer/thicknesser to achive a good workable blank.

 

When seasoning make sure your timber gets plenty of air, the more wind the better, it will dry in no time.

[DUCKWING 302]

ALL GOOD TIPS

 

 

ONE THING I WOULD ADD IS TO ADD WEIGHT TO THE TOP OF STACKED LUMBER ..... 5 GALLON DRUM FULL OF WATER DO THE JOB NICELY

 

WAX ADDED THE ENDS SHOULD HAVE A BIT OF PARRAFIN OIL ADDED AS IT MAKES THE WAX LESS LIKELY TO CRACK UNDER THE MOVEMENT OF THE DRYING PROCESS .........

 

ALL THE BEST

 

DUCKWING

[Strong Stuff 2,171]

Sorry to tell you this John but it's no good to you ............

 

Maybe I can help :

 

 

http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=156364&st=0&p=1579793entry1579793

 

 

:laugh:

[john b 38]

Strong Stuff, you're not burning my walnut. Although I might burn it myself if it turns out rubbish.

 

In the meantime I have waxed the ends of my logs and shall store them in a dry and breezy spot.

 

In the interests of common learning here are some photos of my efforts. No laughing

 

Melting the wax over water

 

 

 

Adding the wax with a spoon.

 

 

 

Finished result. Looking at the pictures now I've probably not gone out to the edge far enough - I imagine I should have gone to the edge of the bark.