zeroeing bsa meteor with essential scope

[ngbacon 0]

can anybody offer me help on zeroing a bsa meteor at 25yrds with a bsa essential scope. i keep trying but the clusters never seem to move.

any tips? thx

[Sweeney-Todd 208]

can anybody offer me help on zeroing a bsa meteor at 25yrds with a bsa essential scope. i keep trying but the clusters never seem to move.

any tips? thx

 

 

Hiya Buddy.

 

Check that you have not over tightened the the scope mounts, you may have crushed the tube and damaged the reticle.

 

Or could be the scopes knackered anyway, try another scope on the rifle and try again.

Just a thought.

 

 

 

 

Good luck.

 

 

 

 

Bill.

[Phantom 631]

Another thought for you to try is to 'Optically Centre' it then fit it to the gun and start from there, Its a pain in the ass to do but usually very effective.

Buster did a hell of a write up on how to do it correctly I'll see if I can find it for you.

 

Another way would be to turn the turret to the very top, then count how many clicks it takes to get to the bottom, then do the same with the windage turret and divide both and set your starting point at exactly halfway between the number of clicks. Again a pain in the ass, but its a good starting point.

 

Also bring your target (or move closer to it) to about 10 or 15 yards/metre's whatever you like, once zero is achieved, move away target by another 5 and re-zero. Repeat until desired distance is achieved

 

Phantom

[Phantom 631]

Couldn't find Busters thread on here so went to another source (a text file in my archive of usefull info).

 

Here's his write up

 

 

Optical Centering

 

To get the best performance from a scope, its adjustment knobs need to be in the optimum range, which is very close to the scope's optical center.

 

What is the optical center of a scope?

The optical center refers to the reticle and the field of view. An optically-centered scope shows zero reticle movement against a distant backdrop when the scope tube is rotated in a complete circle. Theoretically, that's possible to achieve. The best I've heard of is a reticle that moves about a quarter inch against a target 20 yards away when the scope tube is rotated in a complete circle

 

 

I suppose you could rotate the scope in its rings if the rings' top caps (the top half of the rings) were removed and the turrets would clear the top of the gun when they came around, but there is another method.

 

With a small box sitting on a shooting bench, cut two v-shaped slots into the top edges and rest the scope on those two slots. Once the scope is focused on the target (which is 20 yards away), look through the scope and put a dot or mark on the target close to where the crosshairs are. It helps to have two people when you do this - one looking through the scope without moving it and the other downrange to draw the mark.

 

Rotate the scope tube around a complete circle and watch how the center of the crosshairs moves against your mark. It will probably move several inches at first. Figure out which adjustment knob to move and make your correction to reduce reticle movement against the target. This takes some time.

 

Remember, it's almost impossible to remove the last bit of movement out of the reticle. Both the windage and elevation knobs will probably need some adjustment.

 

DO NOT think you can count the clicks of adjustment between lockup and complete spring relax and go to the center of that number for the optical center. It sounds good, but that way never works. Optical center is more precise than the center of the click adjustment range.

 

Once the scope is optically centered, put it in an adjustable mount and use the mount's adjustments to zero the scope and gun. Once you're zeroed, you'll still have all the scope's best range of adjustments remaining.

 

You can just mount a scope and use it without going through this drill. But, if your scope runs out of adjustments or if you find yourself shooting to the right of the target at close range and to the left at long range, centering will cure the problem.

 

 

 

Now there`s food for thought , now go and check your scopes

 

ATB , Bust

 

 

Phantom

[ngbacon 0]

Another thought for you to try is to 'Optically Centre' it then fit it to the gun and start from there, Its a pain in the ass to do but usually very effective.

Buster did a hell of a write up on how to do it correctly I'll see if I can find it for you.

 

Another way would be to turn the turret to the very top, then count how many clicks it takes to get to the bottom, then do the same with the windage turret and divide both and set your starting point at exactly halfway between the number of clicks. Again a pain in the ass, but its a good starting point.

 

Also bring your target (or move closer to it) to about 10 or 15 yards/metre's whatever you like, once zero is achieved, move away target by another 5 and re-zero. Repeat until desired distance is achieved

 

Phantom

 

thx i think ill go for the last one