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the art of zeroing


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ive heard alot of stories regarding this

do you take all day on a cold zero or do your best in a few hours

a guidence please as myself and 2 others would like to know as some of us are not that loaded with money and would like to do it very efficient

thanks

bore sighting a must then whats your game ?

cheers lee

Edited by cassshantia
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I normally set up my bipod with a rear bag, remove the bolt from the rifle, centre the bore on the target adjust crosshair to match this. You should then at least be on the paper at your chosen distance, I then fine tune the adjustments. Hope this helps.

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bore sighting will help.

overdo the fist adjustment(if not known at the range shot) and make a note of how many clicks made what difference.

you should be on target with 3-5 shots. a five round group to confirm.

atb waidmann

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gotta say I reckon the calmer the day the easier it is to zero as well. Iv been zeroing my gun in a number of ways in the last month at 52 yards using Federal hollow points. Another must I found is to stick to the same bullet make and model as each different bullet type and manufacturer have different zero points which I found out the hard way!

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ive heard alot of stories regarding this

do you take all day on a cold zero or do your best in a few hours

a guidence please as myself and 2 others would like to know as some of us are not that loaded with money and would like to do it very efficient

thanks

bore sighting a must then whats your game ?

cheers lee

 

 

days? hours? really? should not take you more than 10 mins lol .. easy way to get scope close to centor would be to wind it all the way down and all the way left or right..

now wind all the up and count how many turns same for left/right ie if its 12 up and 12 left half wide 6 back try a shot and 99% of the time your pritty close. then just adjust as needed. ( tip ) take the bubbles out of a cheap lvl mount your rifle and get it flast as pos. mount your scope and using a second bubble get this lvl also. both your rifle and scope are 100% lvl so when you do take a shot and need to adjust you wont get unwanted movement ie if u go up 10 it gos up 10 and not up 10 and left 3 or what ever..

 

get it zeroto the point that the round just starts to drop off. then your ready just dial in your ranges and off ya go.. 99% of scopes will have a guid what to dail in for what ranges but this is mostly a ruff guid at best. Easy thing to do it Right all your ranges down on your ammo box's. Or i just cut some paper put in on the inside of my rear scope cover and there always there ready for me if i need em ..

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I normally set up my bipod with a rear bag, remove the bolt from the rifle, centre the bore on the target adjust crosshair to match this. You should then at least be on the paper at your chosen distance, I then fine tune the adjustments. Hope this helps.

 

 

As above but add in a couple of up clicks and you will be almost there.

 

Then after you have got your zero to the range that you want to shoot at RESET the turret reading to zero, NOT the turrets, just the dial reading the zero. Then you have your scope zeroed and can dial in up or down for different ranges and return to your zero every time.

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Its also a goot idea to use a target that has the 1" square patten, take average of 3 shots once you're on the paper and then use the squares to accurately dial the moa adjustment on your scope ie 1/4 click at 100 yards (or double adjustment 1/8 at 50). Once your happy go have a cuppa, fag, pot-noodle :whistling: and do another 3 shot group when the bore is cold - then you'll know for sure :yes:

 

http://www.targetz.com/targetzlib/10058.pdf

 

:thumbs:

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I normally set up my bipod with a rear bag, remove the bolt from the rifle, centre the bore on the target adjust crosshair to match this. You should then at least be on the paper at your chosen distance, I then fine tune the adjustments. Hope this helps.

 

 

Thats exactly how i do it :thumbs: , i tend to do this first at bout 75yrds than move back to my chosen "Zeroing" distance.

 

Other thing i tend to do is move the crosshairs in relation to the impact hole. i.e I aim for the centre of the target, if the bullet impact is nowhere near the centre i will set the rifle steady on the bi-pod and rear bag aim exactly where i was aiming with the initial shot (at the centre of the target) and then dial the crosshairs until they meet the initial point of impact. When doing this you must be sure that the rifle is not moved. Also that methord will save you a few bullets. :yes:

 

 

hope this helps

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I just set up ready to shoot, assumeing ammo is known etc & this is for a scope swop zero not a new rifle set up.

Settle down & shoot 3 rounds while aiming at the bull.

Adjust & try again.

Not much help ?

Well perhaps the method info is lacking but I'll tell you to take your time, blating ammo down range to zero is considered a waste of ammo so the quicker you can do it with as few shots as possible the better.

or you can do a no rush job & use every shot as a practice to kill shot as well, every shot aim for the bull, the POI group should still be tight.

A quick 3 or 5 shot blast to get an average is a waste, a slow I'm going to be spot on shot is useing the ammo, not wasting it to zero.

I don't care if it takes me ages, I don't care if It takes 50 shots in total.

As far as I'm concerned every shot taken is a one shot "kill" shot.

I'll also add some scopes I've tried didn't seem to adjust even though I'd gone mad with the turret turning.

I often found If I stopped & went back another day the scope did move after a shot or two, internals sticking ?

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ive heard alot of stories regarding this

do you take all day on a cold zero or do your best in a few hours

a guidence please as myself and 2 others would like to know as some of us are not that loaded with money and would like to do it very efficient

thanks

bore sighting a must then whats your game ?

cheers lee

Well, for a start it depends what you a zeroing, a .22 rimfire or a .50BMG?

I take it you are probably on an Airgun or a Rimfire.

Firstly make sure your scope is RIGHT, that is the cross hairs are 'straight' and the eye relief for you is OK and comfortable, the screws are 'nipped up'

but not murderously tight. I have seen some real cock-ups with the above, so if your not sure get someone who knows what they are about to help you.

Now put up a paper target at least 2 feet square with a 2" black circle in the middle (black felt pen is ideal), then set it up ONLY 20 yards'ish away, rest

your rifle and shoot aiming at the centre of the 'black', unless your are vey unlucky a hole will appear 'somewhere' on the paper, then it's just a case of

up/down left/right on the turrets until you are 'in the black, now make a second target the same as the first and ste it up at the range YOU think you will

be shooting your quarry at (50 to 75 yards with a rimfire), now repeat he process until you are 'in the black' again, job done.

By the way, time spent shooting paper and practicing is not 'wasted ammo' you need to practice and gain realtime experience.

Have Fun!

AndyF

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By the way, time spent shooting paper and practicing is not 'wasted ammo' you need to practice and gain realtime experience.

 

You also need to know what sort of groups you can shoot and where the group will end up at differant ranges, they start low, cross zero then go high, cross zero again and drop more and more from there. With a 22 air rifle I like to shoot test targets every 10 yards upto 50 (I'm loosing it after 40 but I wouldn't know if I didn't keep going.)

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andyf, on 21 March 2010 - 08:51 PM, said:

 

By the way, time spent shooting paper and practicing is not 'wasted ammo' you need to practice and gain realtime experience.

 

What about if your out on a hunting trip and say you knock the scope or drop your gun? whats the answer, go home? if you know how to zero your rifle efficently then there is no need to go and let off 20 rounds. :whistling:

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