Selvedge

[gollum 1]

F.A.O long net makers.

I'm coming to the end of the body of my first long net.

Question: Suggestions on choice of material and size twine for the selvedge...

 

The net body is spun nylon in 10/6. I have a couple of spools of spun nylon in 10/9 which could be used for the selvedge but I am hoping for advice first.

 

Am I right in thinking that a double selvedge increases friction along the head and foot lines thus helping to reduce the problem of net sliding up the lines in a cross wind? If so, do I need to go up to 10/9 and double that, or would it be as good to use the 10/6 doubled up.

 

I have noticed a couple of posts where spun poly has been used for the selvedge...is there an advantage to this?

 

Any advice on the above much appreciated, I'll put up a few pics when I'm done. (approx a fortnight at current knitting rate)

 

HH all.

 

G.

[Tiercel 6,986]

Gollum,

 

The selvedges on hand knitted nets has a few effects on how the net works.

 

The main one though is that the selvedge twine is stronger than the body of the net to stop the net wearing out. Personally I would go for the 10/9 twine as in my eyes a selvedge of the same twine as the body of the net is made out of, even though it is doubled up, will still wear at the same rate as if there was no selvedge there.

 

As for the friction of doubled up twine slowing a net down when end setting, I cannot say that I have noticed that effect.

 

Another good reason for using a stiffer twine for the selvedge is the way a net is knitted. We knit a net with all the meshes running vertical, we then turn the net 90 degrees to use it so the meshes are then running horizontal. Depending on how stiff the twine in the body of the net is, the net has a memory of the way it was knitted. By adding a selvedge you are negating some of the effect of the net wanting to stretch out horizontaly lengthways.

 

I hope I have made clear what I am trying to say, one thought, have a look at the way the meshes hang on a purse net that has been made out of sheet netting you do not have a true diamond on the meshes because the meshes have been turned 90 degrees to the way they were made. The same happens with a hand made net.

 

I use basically any twine that is heavier than the body of the net. The best twine I have used is a braided nylon it was a bug ger to knit with but does it's job very well indeed. It is a good idea not to go too heavy with the selvage twine as it can cause problems when knotting on to the thinner twine.

 

Hope this helps.

 

TC

Edited January 30, 2010 by tiercel

[The Ferret Tamer 1]

I could not have put it better myself, always use a more robust twine for the selvedge and the net should last you a long time.

 

FT

[gollum 1]

Cheers TC, 10/9 doubled up it will be.

 

HH

 

G.

[Fat-Ferret 857]

Do let us see the finished net, I wish I had the patience to make one...

[andy mecca 5]

Gollum,

 

The selvedges on hand knitted nets has a few effects on how the net works.

 

The main one though is that the selvedge twine is stronger than the body of the net to stop the net wearing out. Personally I would go for the 10/9 twine as in my eyes a selvedge of the same twine as the body of the net is made out of, even though it is doubled up, will still wear at the same rate as if there was no selvedge there.

 

As for the friction of doubled up twine slowing a net down when end setting, I cannot say that I have noticed that effect.

 

Another good reason for using a stiffer twine for the selvedge is the way a net is knitted. We knit a net with all the meshes running vertical, we then turn the net 90 degrees to use it so the meshes are then running horizontal. Depending on how stiff the twine in the body of the net is, the net has a memory of the way it was knitted. By adding a selvedge you are negating some of the effect of the net wanting to stretch out horizontaly lengthways.

 

I hope I have made clear what I am trying to say, one thought, have a look at the way the meshes hang on a purse net that has been made out of sheet netting you do not have a true diamond on the meshes because the meshes have been turned 90 degrees to the way they were made. The same happens with a hand made net.

 

I use basically any twine that is heavier than the body of the net. The best twine I have used is a braided nylon it was a bug ger to knit with but does it's job very well indeed. It is a good idea not to go too heavy with the selvage twine as it can cause problems when knotting on to the thinner twine.

 

Hope this helps.

 

TC

excellent reply