carp777 191 Posted December 31, 2009 Report Share Posted December 31, 2009 hi can anybody tell me how big a job is it to put a new clutch in a 53 plate hi lux double cab? cheer's Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bert69 5 Posted December 31, 2009 Report Share Posted December 31, 2009 I take it the clutch has just worn mate? It isn't too big a job but would be made a hole heap easier if you have access to a post ramp otherwise it is doable on the drive but you will struggle. Take the prop off and get it out the way. Undo the chassis cross member but leave it on the bolts as this will support the weight of the gearbox. Undo gearbox mounts and all the bell housing bolts except the top two. Jump in the cab and undo the gaiter around the gearsticks and if possible remove the gear knobs. Back under the truck undo clutch line (i take it that it is a hydraulic clutch not cable?) Support the weight of the gearbox on a trolley jack if you have one then remove the chassis cross member and undo the last couple of bell housing bolts. If you don't have a jack you can support the gearbox yourself if you're strong but you will struggle like f**k laying on your back. Then get the gearbox out the way, change the clutch plates making sure they are the right way round and that the centre splines are lined up, you may need an alignment tool for this. Then basically put your truck back together. Oh and one last pointer, dont buy a cheap clutch (ie from milner off road as they are shit). I know it sounds a lot easier than it is to do but that is basically an outline. It is fairly easy by comparison to say an ordinary car as you dont have any engine mounts or anything to undo, shoguns are a pig too. Hope this helps. Basically get a ramp or a pit to borrow and you will thank the lord for it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
carp777 191 Posted January 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2010 I take it the clutch has just worn mate? It isn't too big a job but would be made a hole heap easier if you have access to a post ramp otherwise it is doable on the drive but you will struggle. Take the prop off and get it out the way. Undo the chassis cross member but leave it on the bolts as this will support the weight of the gearbox. Undo gearbox mounts and all the bell housing bolts except the top two. Jump in the cab and undo the gaiter around the gearsticks and if possible remove the gear knobs. Back under the truck undo clutch line (i take it that it is a hydraulic clutch not cable?) Support the weight of the gearbox on a trolley jack if you have one then remove the chassis cross member and undo the last couple of bell housing bolts. If you don't have a jack you can support the gearbox yourself if you're strong but you will struggle like f**k laying on your back. Then get the gearbox out the way, change the clutch plates making sure they are the right way round and that the centre splines are lined up, you may need an alignment tool for this. Then basically put your truck back together. Oh and one last pointer, dont buy a cheap clutch (ie from milner off road as they are shit). I know it sounds a lot easier than it is to do but that is basically an outline. It is fairly easy by comparison to say an ordinary car as you dont have any engine mounts or anything to undo, shoguns are a pig too. Hope this helps. Basically get a ramp or a pit to borrow and you will thank the lord for it! cheer's mate i take it there's no front propshaft to take off? i've done em on ordinary cars years ago just have'nt been under a motor for year's!!! but i know that a garage will charge the earth because it's a 4x4!! are you suggesting a genuine toyota clutch? or would a motor factor clutch be ok i've been quoted £287 for a non genuine clutch and that's with a 30% discount!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrycatcat 31 Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 (edited) Just reminded me of when I changed the gearbox on Hillman Super Minx layed on the driveway in December with the front wheels on chocks. Mind you I was only 20 at the time, you can do them tricks then. edited to say that when you are layed on your back that Toyota gearbox will be vvverry heavy unless you have a pit or 4 poster as mentioned before. Edited January 2, 2010 by harrycatcat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bert69 5 Posted January 3, 2010 Report Share Posted January 3, 2010 yeah you will have to disconnect the front prop but you shouldn't have to totally get it out the way like i would with the rear as obviously the gearbox comes backwards when you remove it. a motor factor clutch should be fine so long as its not a cheap chinese copy. Toyota parts are expensive mate thats just a fact of life. while you're in there get a new thrust bearing (should come with clutch). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Daks Posted January 9, 2010 Report Share Posted January 9, 2010 top write up lol, instead of buying a clutch alignment tool just take a 3/8 ratchet (metal handle) and once you put your clutch back onto the fly wheel remembering to look at the clutch plate and putting the fly wheel side to the engine stick the ratchet handle in and hold it central tighten the bolts up around the clutch and remove the ratchet it should be centralised now and your gearbox should go straight back in after a few jiggles...atb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bert69 5 Posted January 9, 2010 Report Share Posted January 9, 2010 did you get your clutch done mate? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pigeon640 0 Posted January 9, 2010 Report Share Posted January 9, 2010 also check the spigotbearing in thecentre of the fly wheel and check the surface of the flywheel kirky Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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