ghillies 209 Posted September 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 i will ty... think the spounge wasnt straight on the base tbh... so i got the spounge square in but the bottom runs out.. summut do at the time lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MuttleMcTuttle 21 Posted September 30, 2009 Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 the tamron guy was on some website, used the 18-105mm thingie, a 60 doller lens on other reveiws and forums, sposed to be awful, but he did model shots, and people liked um, the one's i saw were more than ok... the pro togs writing the reveiws in an airgun mag style are the ones.... cleverly worded as to tell all about it, alas any relavence is neather hear nor there, lol.... a sarky apinion maybe but a spades a spade.... ans coment like 'some thing you really need to know...wofle wofle wofle, it's 'called this'...i'm a top pro and my stuff's good' lolol when do they ever get tothe important thing, other than it may exsist? fair do's though, there are a few out there that exsplain it properly.... i'll have a read of those sights, but if its charts of unseable spectrums.... not of that much use without the relative bumf and what it does on a processing program for the follow up. end of the day 0.0002 nanotraniums above the iso metrolatic bar,, followed by ooooo went the crowd means diddley squot lol.... till you take a shot then play with it. well...as a semi newbie that doesnt know yet lol. the key bit is howed you get to know.....2 hour walk or a 2 minute spounge at night when your twitching to photogragh an all time great? sniggers... yu gotta do it haveny yu lol. what are you babbling about now? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MuttleMcTuttle 21 Posted September 30, 2009 Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 hmmm ty Tuttles, thats some of the graghs sorted, but... unless your folking out a few K the test is still put it on and try it.. the fraize 'who cares as long as it does what i want it to' has turned up a few times, but then again after a grand plus i'd want facts abd ficures, and it'd better be better lol... one thing i have noted is that low light bright light tests arent that comon? unless i never found them (that is possable lol).. for example, one lens fails in low twighlite it is very good in high light.. etc.. and as the light changes so does the shutter speed/iso/apature to get a 'look' or 'style' going..(it is posable better lens arnt as 'bad' at variating, then again if they dont get the look because of a lesser set up..then the cheapies are needed to do so etc..i wont know till i get better and use the better stuff i think...) so for the layman maybe it is just take a few..see how it goes, the more progressed like yourself already know the diference having bin there and got the T shirt.. so it's sort of subject to not just whats best but what camera and an individuals skill and understanding. my test still stands, i've had two lenses that didnt show the same as the 'test' pics and comparison, hendse i'm a wee bit distant to those. alas i cant feny the nikon VR's or the canon L's dunt arf do a nice picture...noticabley better at a glance. and of course, as a snap shot, any jpeg will do...as a peace of art or for hi pay it does need more skill on the pc, not just the camera.... lol i'll probably eat my words later down the line...things change as you go dont they lol..... Yes, the best way is to put it on and try it... I'm still not quite sure what you were testing the lens for anyway? If you are concerned that the focus might be out then do a test at a measured distance to check if it's back-focusing. Even new lenses can be wrongly calibrated, and sharpness does depend on the camera too. The same goes for low light capability. Most cheaper lenses suffer from chromatic aberration, few modern ones suffer from vignetting, but there again it depends on the camera. Files from my 5D show a small amount of vignetting if I use the 17-40 at 17mm... sob sob but that's not alens problem. As for distortion, well if a 50mm lens distorts or vignettes you have got a very very poor copy! I don't actually understand lens tests, with all those little graphs and figures. Don't worry too much about sharpness - RAW digital images are inherently soft, Canon images noticeably so, until you apply a little (and I mean a little!) sharpening. As for jpegs, well for busy wedding & press photographers they are a godsend, but you have to get it right in camera. For landscapers who wish to mangle their images beyond recognition (as if I would do that...) RAW is the best format to use. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ghillies 209 Posted September 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 the tests were a see what it does... it's an old pantagon m42 mount lense... it'd been suprising me and harrowing me randomly lol, the brighter it gets the higher the f/ stop has to be or it bleach's a bit, but it poor light it definatly has a quolity about it.. it seams 'heavier' with the image if that makes sence.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MuttleMcTuttle 21 Posted September 30, 2009 Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 the tests were a see what it does... it's an old pantagon m42 mount lense... it'd been suprising me and harrowing me randomly lol, the brighter it gets the higher the f/ stop has to be or it bleach's a bit, but it poor light it definatly has a quolity about it.. it seams 'heavier' with the image if that makes sence.. No, it doesn't make sense I think you'll find with all lenses that in bright light you'll need a smaller aperture (or faster speed) or things are gonna get over exposed... Although you get most depth of field at the smallest aperture, a lot of lenses are at their sharpest around f8 aperture, so this is the setting often favoured by portrait photographers. The modern zooms are excellent, but I don't think you can beat a decent prime lens for sharpness at all f stops. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ghillies 209 Posted September 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 (edited) the tests were a see what it does... it's an old pantagon m42 mount lense... it'd been suprising me and harrowing me randomly lol, the brighter it gets the higher the f/ stop has to be or it bleach's a bit, but it poor light it definatly has a quolity about it.. it seams 'heavier' with the image if that makes sence.. No, it doesn't make sense I think you'll find with all lenses that in bright light you'll need a smaller aperture (or faster speed) or things are gonna get over exposed... Although you get most depth of field at the smallest aperture, a lot of lenses are at their sharpest around f8 aperture, so this is the setting often favoured by portrait photographers. The modern zooms are excellent, but I don't think you can beat a decent prime lens for sharpness at all f stops. in my limited exsperience i'd aggree with prime any day lol.. theyre the dogs ganglies. edit.. but sheesh isnt a zoom handy for composing... ohhh..almost forgot, the graghs on that link, they measure the photo with a program, if two bars together(blue and yellow) are the same height thats good,(the higher the bar height the better) the more they difer the worse the lense is at that particular focal legnth... hense theres a few bars in pairs... they then draw a line over the top as an 'average' so a straight line average would mean the lens was best all the way through... and the price would go through the roof.. or, as usual the peak of the line accross the top is the best part the lens for an even picture from center to 75% the way out from the center. Edited September 30, 2009 by ghillies Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MuttleMcTuttle 21 Posted September 30, 2009 Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 the tests were a see what it does... it's an old pantagon m42 mount lense... it'd been suprising me and harrowing me randomly lol, the brighter it gets the higher the f/ stop has to be or it bleach's a bit, but it poor light it definatly has a quolity about it.. it seams 'heavier' with the image if that makes sence.. No, it doesn't make sense I think you'll find with all lenses that in bright light you'll need a smaller aperture (or faster speed) or things are gonna get over exposed... Although you get most depth of field at the smallest aperture, a lot of lenses are at their sharpest around f8 aperture, so this is the setting often favoured by portrait photographers. The modern zooms are excellent, but I don't think you can beat a decent prime lens for sharpness at all f stops. in my limited exsperience i'd aggree with prime any day lol.. theyre the dogs ganglies. edit.. but sheesh isnt a zoom handy for composing... ohhh..almost forgot, the graghs on that link, they measure the photo with a program, if two bars together(blue and yellow) are the same height thats good,(the higher the bar height the better) the more they difer the worse the lense is at that particular focal legnth... hense theres a few bars in pairs... they then draw a line over the top as an 'average' so a straight line average would mean the lens was best all the way through... and the price would go through the roof.. or, as usual the peak of the line accross the top is the best part the lens for an even picture from center to 75% the way out from the center. um... yeah, something like that... zooms are well handy, can't beat something that can go from short to long in the blink of an eye... You can get some nice zoom burst effects too, just like your avatar pic! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ghillies 209 Posted September 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 ahh well i hd that done while posing for a profetional..ty lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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