refurbishing a stock

[jimmy boy 79]

hi all, i have a .410 3 shot norica and the stock is a bit tatty i was thinking could i rub it make to the bare and re varnish it i have quiet a good idea what to do , just i dont want 2 start it and it goes tits up anybody else done this? some info and pics would be much appreciated.

[SEAN3513 7]

ive done a couple ( no pics sorry)

 

if you are going to strip it to bare wood you will need a sealer and filler (liquid) which will make the stock really smooth and not "furry".

 

then a stain , or not if the stock is nice enough as it is just leave it.

 

if the gun is being used a lot i would reccomend oiling the stock or waxing rather than varnish.

 

varnish makes it very slippy and can chip easily, if you wax or oil ( walnut oil) small areas of damage in the future can be easily repaired by re-waxing or oiling, if it was varnished and got chipped you would have to start all over again.

 

the BIRCHWOOD CASEY range of stock finishing products are very good and not to expensive.

 

this is just my opinion

 

hope it helps

 

atb

 

sean

[jimmy boy 79]

cheers mate

[waidmann 105]

the only problem i had was with the cutting of the chequering. so i left it as it was and sanded down the rest of the wood.ironed out any deep dents and applied stock oil( with a red tint) with a soft cloth every day rubbing untill dry. after about half a bottle the shaft looked great.

i then polished the side plates with a dremel( polishing bit) and some metal polish and the gun was in real good shape.

a little time and the gun will look good mate.

atb

[cyclonebri1 8]

Try and steam out any dents 1st, should save having to remove too much material. Put a wet cloth over the affected area then iron it for a minute to force steam into the grain. Alternatively just leave a small sponge or wet rag sat on the damaged bit for a while.

[410phil 4]

This is my fn19 hawk that I recently re-furbed

The only thing I would say is do not use sand paper to start stripping it use nitromors varnish and lacquer remover using an old toothbrush or scrubbing brush to work it into the chequering and when its blistered ind the old varnish starts to scrape off easily use a rag soaked in white spirit to wast the thing down and if needs be give it 2 or 3 goes with the nitromors.

Sorry there are not many pictures but there isn't enough file space to allow me to upload them all.

If you would like to see them all send me your e-mail and I 'll send them to you hope this gives you some idea of what can be done on the cheap and with just a few hours work.

All the best 410 Phil

[cyclonebri1 8]

Not a bad looking job at all well worth doing

[RicW 67]

hi all, i have a .410 3 shot norica and the stock is a bit tatty i was thinking could i rub it make to the bare and re varnish it i have quiet a good idea what to do , just i dont want 2 start it and it goes tits up anybody else done this? some info and pics would be much appreciated.

 

Have a look at the pinned site at the top of this forum on refurbishing stocks!

Ric

[halloween man 12]

This is my fn19 hawk that I recently re-furbed

The only thing I would say is do not use sand paper to start stripping it use nitromors varnish and lacquer remover using an old toothbrush or scrubbing brush to work it into the chequering and when its blistered ind the old varnish starts to scrape off easily use a rag soaked in white spirit to wast the thing down and if needs be give it 2 or 3 goes with the nitromors.

Sorry there are not many pictures but there isn't enough file space to allow me to upload them all.

If you would like to see them all send me your e-mail and I 'll send them to you hope this gives you some idea of what can be done on the cheap and with just a few hours work.

All the best 410 Phil

nice job

[justin 2]

lovely job that...what process did you go through after it had been nitro morsed and white spirited ???what did you use to get that type of finish ???

[410phil 4]

After the stock had dried I used fine wire wool and then used tru oil 8 coats applied by hand and each coat left to dry for 24 hours and rubbed down with 0000 grade wire wool between each application.

410 PHIL