rat poison

[RatSnatcher 0]

not every poison causes secondry poisoning as i was meaning difenacoum which is a multi feed but when you are talking something like klerat [brodifacoum] and storm blocks [flucoumafen] which are both no nos for external use then you can say we are talking crap but yes you are true me and trappa should of explained ourselfs better but if the lad buys it freom the shops they should explain how he should use it

 

 

Have a read Lurchers

 

http://www.redkites.net/section88640.html

 

 

IMPORTANT INFORMATION REGARDING SECONDARY POISONING

 

 

Below is advice issued by the Zoological Society of London (ZSL), who have kindly permitted redkites.net to post the following important information:

 

Red kites and other birds of prey are very susceptible to secondary poisoning as they will eat poisoned rodents and ingest the poisons they contain. These poisons may kill the kite immediately, or they may accumulate in the body and cause eventual death. The so-called ‘second generation’ anticoagulant rodenticides are particularly toxic to red kites and other wildlife and products containing Bromadiolone, Difenacoum, Brodifacoum or Flocoumafen should be avoided if possible.

 

your wrong mate....

Edited July 16, 2009 by RatSnatcher

[lurchers 2,762]

not every poison causes secondry poisoning as i was meaning difenacoum which is a multi feed but when you are talking something like klerat [brodifacoum] and storm blocks [flucoumafen] which are both no nos for external use then you can say we are talking crap but yes you are true me and trappa should of explained ourselfs better but if the lad buys it freom the shops they should explain how he should use it

 

 

Have a read Lurchers

 

http://www.redkites.net/section88640.html

 

 

IMPORTANT INFORMATION REGARDING SECONDARY POISONING

 

 

Below is advice issued by the Zoological Society of London (ZSL), who have kindly permitted redkites.net to post the following important information:

 

Red kites and other birds of prey are very susceptible to secondary poisoning as they will eat poisoned rodents and ingest the poisons they contain. These poisons may kill the kite immediately, or they may accumulate in the body and cause eventual death. The so-called ‘second generation’ anticoagulant rodenticides are particularly toxic to red kites and other wildlife and products containing Bromadiolone, Difenacoum, Brodifacoum or Flocoumafen should be avoided if possible.

 

your wrong mate....

ye but its for in a housing estate.you are not going to get redkites in a housing estate may be sparrow hawks or the odd kestrel.the law is changing to poisons and in the next few years it will beback to traditional methords and if poisons are used once the problem is solved the poison will have to be removed

[RatSnatcher 0]

not every poison causes secondry poisoning as i was meaning difenacoum which is a multi feed but when you are talking something like klerat [brodifacoum] and storm blocks [flucoumafen] which are both no nos for external use then you can say we are talking crap but yes you are true me and trappa should of explained ourselfs better but if the lad buys it freom the shops they should explain how he should use it

 

 

Have a read Lurchers

 

http://www.redkites.net/section88640.html

 

 

IMPORTANT INFORMATION REGARDING SECONDARY POISONING

 

 

Below is advice issued by the Zoological Society of London (ZSL), who have kindly permitted redkites.net to post the following important information:

 

Red kites and other birds of prey are very susceptible to secondary poisoning as they will eat poisoned rodents and ingest the poisons they contain. These poisons may kill the kite immediately, or they may accumulate in the body and cause eventual death. The so-called ‘second generation’ anticoagulant rodenticides are particularly toxic to red kites and other wildlife and products containing Bromadiolone, Difenacoum, Brodifacoum or Flocoumafen should be avoided if possible.

 

your wrong mate....

ye but its for in a housing estate.you are not going to get redkites in a housing estate may be sparrow hawks or the odd kestrel.the law is changing to poisons and in the next few years it will beback to traditional methords and if poisons are used once the problem is solved the poison will have to be removed

 

 

Dream on

 

if poisons are used once the problem is solved the poison will have to be removed

 

That best practice now

 

So its ok to kill the odd sparrow hawk or kestrel

 

I am not replying to this thread for some ego trip but you certainly need educating on the use of rodenticides where are you getting all this bollocks from ffs

[ben2 0]

please dont give advice if you are not trained even if you mean well theres no turning back when you have killed the non target . you could end up in the nick or a bloody great fine. is it worth it.

 

ben

[Matt 160]

As Ratsnatcher has pointed out, there is the possiblility of secondary poisoning from all of the current anti-coagulant rodenticides, although there has never yet (to my knowledge) been a case of proven death of a raptor via secondary poisoning.

 

The problem is that dead birds are being examined, and found to contain traces of anti-coagulants in their system.

 

Whatever bait is chosen, the label instructions must be followed to the letter. Gradually, all labels are now changing, and permenant baiting will become a thing of the past. What has changed already is that you now have to remove all bait at the end of any treatment.

 

In terms of the best bait for an ameteur to use, there are plenty to choose from. A professional will (should) choose the most approriate forumulation for the job in hand.

 

The same active ingreadients (and concentrations) that are used by professionals are available to the ameteur market, although sometimes under different brand names, the key is not so much what you use, but how you use it, and that information cannot be learnt on an internet forum.

 

All occupiers of land have a legal responsibility to control rats on their land. Councils often offer free, or subsidised rat control, and if you are on a tight budget, that should be your first port of call.

 

Forget trying to do it yourself for a bit of fun; rat infestations are no fun, and risk the health and wealth of you, your family, your animals and those around you.

 

Do the responsible thing and call in the experts.

[lurchers 2,762]

not every poison causes secondry poisoning as i was meaning difenacoum which is a multi feed but when you are talking something like klerat [brodifacoum] and storm blocks [flucoumafen] which are both no nos for external use then you can say we are talking crap but yes you are true me and trappa should of explained ourselfs better but if the lad buys it freom the shops they should explain how he should use it

 

 

Have a read Lurchers

 

http://www.redkites.net/section88640.html

 

 

IMPORTANT INFORMATION REGARDING SECONDARY POISONING

 

 

Below is advice issued by the Zoological Society of London (ZSL), who have kindly permitted redkites.net to post the following important information:

 

Red kites and other birds of prey are very susceptible to secondary poisoning as they will eat poisoned rodents and ingest the poisons they contain. These poisons may kill the kite immediately, or they may accumulate in the body and cause eventual death. The so-called ‘second generation’ anticoagulant rodenticides are particularly toxic to red kites and other wildlife and products containing Bromadiolone, Difenacoum, Brodifacoum or Flocoumafen should be avoided if possible.

 

your wrong mate....

ye but its for in a housing estate.you are not going to get redkites in a housing estate may be sparrow hawks or the odd kestrel.the law is changing to poisons and in the next few years it will beback to traditional methords and if poisons are used once the problem is solved the poison will have to be removed

 

 

Dream on

 

if poisons are used once the problem is solved the poison will have to be removed

 

That best practice now

 

So its ok to kill the odd sparrow hawk or kestrel

 

I am not replying to this thread for some ego trip but you certainly need educating on the use of rodenticides where are you getting all this bollocks from ffs

if i was you i would be getting onto the bpca thats what they were saying so its no good saying bullshit when you have to sit there course to show you are eligable to use rodenticides

[RatSnatcher 0]

Lurchers, what are the BPCA saying.......

[ellir0305 9]

we always get a small problem with rats after the cider making when all the apple pulp goes into the compost heaps its just one of those things.

 

i always use the fenns to clear up as many as possible but when i stop getting results with them and if there is still rodent activity. we use a hopper style bait tube like the one in the link

 

http://www.killgerm.com/product-group.php?group=528

 

i use diffenacoum (i think thats the right spelling) in this and it allows me to use a small amount of bait at once and to monitor activity and uptake of the bait closely. i check round for dead rats every day or so and when the activity stops all the bait is removed.

 

this is only on a domestic scale like that discussed. but the main focusses are preventing unwanted acces to the bait and checking for bodies to reduce secondary poisoning.

 

this works as a great way to eliminate what is usually a fairly confined population in a short period of time.

 

hope this helps and doesnt offend anybody

 

rob

[Matt 160]

if i was you i would be getting onto the bpca thats what they were saying so its no good saying bullshit when you have to sit there course to show you are eligable to use rodenticides

 

Lets just clarify a few things about the BPCA.

 

Firstly, I'm not sure what you think they were saying, but I can assure you that the BPCA would not condone the use of any pesticide without following the label instructions.

 

Secondly, you do not have to sit a BPCA course to make yourself eligible to buy rodenticides. The BPCA are just one of the many training providers who will train candidates to sit the RSPH level 2 certificate in pest control, which is now considered to be the 'entry level' qualification for the pest control industry. The law, although a little grey, requires anyone who wishes to use 'professional' use products to be able to demonstrate that they are suitably trained and competent. Many of the suppliers of professional products provide basic training for that purpose.

 

The main problem with modern professional use pesticides is that the conditions of use (searching for bodies, removing baits, maximum baiting periods etc) have and are continually changing, and best practice (which is what any judge will use as a reference point if you are prosecuted) is changing as we go along. That is why CPD (continuous professional development) schemes are so much in favour now. If you got basic training more than two years ago, then a hell of a lot of what you were taught then is out of date. CPD is just a way of demonstrating that you keep up to date with the changing industry, and is now a requirement to work on many sites.

 

 

we always get a small problem with rats after the cider making when all the apple pulp goes into the compost heaps its just one of those things.

 

i always use the fenns to clear up as many as possible but when i stop getting results with them and if there is still rodent activity. we use a hopper style bait tube like the one in the link

 

http://www.killgerm.com/product-group.php?group=528

 

i use diffenacoum (i think thats the right spelling) in this and it allows me to use a small amount of bait at once and to monitor activity and uptake of the bait closely. i check round for dead rats every day or so and when the activity stops all the bait is removed.

 

this is only on a domestic scale like that discussed. but the main focusses are preventing unwanted acces to the bait and checking for bodies to reduce secondary poisoning.

 

this works as a great way to eliminate what is usually a fairly confined population in a short period of time.

 

hope this helps and doesnt offend anybody

 

rob

 

Rob, no offence taken by me; that all sounds like a sensible way of dealing with a regular problem.

 

If I could find anything to criticise there it would only be that I'm not a fan of the 'Rat Eyre' type bait station. The reason I don't like them is that the access holes are large enough to allow songbirds etc to get into them, and also because they are rather 'unstable' and can easily be tipped over causing lots of spillage. They are also not lockable.

 

You should also be quite wary of the quantity of bait they hold. If you check your label on the difenacoum product you are using, you will find that the maximum amount of bait at any one bait point shouldn't exceed 200grams. Those rat eyre tubes hold more than that.

 

If it was me, I'd use a dual purpose wooden bait/trap box. The ones I use can take a fenn mk4 or a tray of bait. You could leave those in place all year round to pick up passing rats, and then switch to bait if you have any rats around.

 

 

Back to the original question; as I suggested in my earlier post; there is no 'best poison' to use. The best bait will depend entirely on the circumstances in which it will be used. The best option is always to get an expert involved.

[ellir0305 9]

cheers bud finally some constructive critisism on this site

 

i will look into making some wooden fenn tunnels which will hold a bait tray too because i usuallly use temporary mesh tunnels.

 

any design tips anybody?

[lurchers 2,762]

if i was you i would be getting onto the bpca thats what they were saying so its no good saying bullshit when you have to sit there course to show you are eligable to use rodenticides

 

Lets just clarify a few things about the BPCA.

 

Firstly, I'm not sure what you think they were saying, but I can assure you that the BPCA would not condone the use of any pesticide without following the label instructions.

 

Secondly, you do not have to sit a BPCA course to make yourself eligible to buy rodenticides. The BPCA are just one of the many training providers who will train candidates to sit the RSPH level 2 certificate in pest control, which is now considered to be the 'entry level' qualification for the pest control industry. The law, although a little grey, requires anyone who wishes to use 'professional' use products to be able to demonstrate that they are suitably trained and competent. Many of the suppliers of professional products provide basic training for that purpose.

 

The main problem with modern professional use pesticides is that the conditions of use (searching for bodies, removing baits, maximum baiting periods etc) have and are continually changing, and best practice (which is what any judge will use as a reference point if you are prosecuted) is changing as we go along. That is why CPD (continuous professional development) schemes are so much in favour now. If you got basic training more than two years ago, then a hell of a lot of what you were taught then is out of date. CPD is just a way of demonstrating that you keep up to date with the changing industry, and is now a requirement to work on many sites.

 

 

we always get a small problem with rats after the cider making when all the apple pulp goes into the compost heaps its just one of those things.

 

i always use the fenns to clear up as many as possible but when i stop getting results with them and if there is still rodent activity. we use a hopper style bait tube like the one in the link

 

http://www.killgerm.com/product-group.php?group=528

 

i use diffenacoum (i think thats the right spelling) in this and it allows me to use a small amount of bait at once and to monitor activity and uptake of the bait closely. i check round for dead rats every day or so and when the activity stops all the bait is removed.

 

this is only on a domestic scale like that discussed. but the main focusses are preventing unwanted acces to the bait and checking for bodies to reduce secondary poisoning.

 

this works as a great way to eliminate what is usually a fairly confined population in a short period of time.

 

hope this helps and doesnt offend anybody

 

rob

 

Rob, no offence taken by me; that all sounds like a sensible way of dealing with a regular problem.

 

If I could find anything to criticise there it would only be that I'm not a fan of the 'Rat Eyre' type bait station. The reason I don't like them is that the access holes are large enough to allow songbirds etc to get into them, and also because they are rather 'unstable' and can easily be tipped over causing lots of spillage. They are also not lockable.

 

You should also be quite wary of the quantity of bait they hold. If you check your label on the difenacoum product you are using, you will find that the maximum amount of bait at any one bait point shouldn't exceed 200grams. Those rat eyre tubes hold more than that.

 

If it was me, I'd use a dual purpose wooden bait/trap box. The ones I use can take a fenn mk4 or a tray of bait. You could leave those in place all year round to pick up passing rats, and then switch to bait if you have any rats around.

 

 

Back to the original question; as I suggested in my earlier post; there is no 'best poison' to use. The best bait will depend entirely on the circumstances in which it will be used. The best option is always to get an expert involved.

i no all rodenticides have a statuary box on them to tell you what to wear,were it should be used[indoor or out door]but what i was saying all pest control companys have to go through the bpca now to show you that you can use poisons proply and they were saying in the next few years they are looking at going back to tradidional methods instead of using poisons 1st as all that people who work as a pest controller only get shown how to deal with the problem using poisons not traditional methods.but like every thing else theres always somebody on here who knows everything

[Matt 160]

i no all rodenticides have a statuary box on them to tell you what to wear,were it should be used[indoor or out door]but what i was saying all pest control companys have to go through the bpca now to show you that you can use poisons proply and they were saying in the next few years they are looking at going back to tradidional methods instead of using poisons 1st as all that people who work as a pest controller only get shown how to deal with the problem using poisons not traditional methods.but like every thing else theres always somebody on here who knows everything

 

Yet more rubbish!

 

Lets clear a few things up:

 

1. Pest control companies do NOT have to 'go through' the BPCA. It is becoming a more common requirement that any technician holds the RSPH level 2 qualification (or an equivelent), but that is nothing to do with the BPCA.
   
2. The requirement to 'use the least toxic option' is part of CoSHH (the Control of Pesticides Regulations), which have been in force since 1986.
   
3. I've been involved with training for a number of years, and non-toxic methods of control have been trained and examined for a long time. The fact that most professionals choose to use rodenticides is irelavant; the non-toxic options may also be used. To suggest that professional pest control technicians know nothing about non-toxic methods is silly.
   

 

You may well think that there is 'always someone on here who knows everything', but there are far more who know very little, as your posts demonstrate.

[stubby 175]

but what i was saying all pest control companys have to go through the bpca now to show you that you can use poisons proply

 

 

fraid not, our night team consists of 6 tech's, only three of us have the BPCA, the rest have just been trained "in house"

[ben2 0]

pest controllers also use traps ,cages etc as often there is to much free food to get the rats feeding on your bait.

 

ben

[RatSnatcher 0]

if i was you i would be getting onto the bpca thats what they were saying so its no good saying bullshit when you have to sit there course to show you are eligable to use rodenticides

 

Lets just clarify a few things about the BPCA.

 

Firstly, I'm not sure what you think they were saying, but I can assure you that the BPCA would not condone the use of any pesticide without following the label instructions.

 

Secondly, you do not have to sit a BPCA course to make yourself eligible to buy rodenticides. The BPCA are just one of the many training providers who will train candidates to sit the RSPH level 2 certificate in pest control, which is now considered to be the 'entry level' qualification for the pest control industry. The law, although a little grey, requires anyone who wishes to use 'professional' use products to be able to demonstrate that they are suitably trained and competent. Many of the suppliers of professional products provide basic training for that purpose.

 

The main problem with modern professional use pesticides is that the conditions of use (searching for bodies, removing baits, maximum baiting periods etc) have and are continually changing, and best practice (which is what any judge will use as a reference point if you are prosecuted) is changing as we go along. That is why CPD (continuous professional development) schemes are so much in favour now. If you got basic training more than two years ago, then a hell of a lot of what you were taught then is out of date. CPD is just a way of demonstrating that you keep up to date with the changing industry, and is now a requirement to work on many sites.

 

 

we always get a small problem with rats after the cider making when all the apple pulp goes into the compost heaps its just one of those things.

 

i always use the fenns to clear up as many as possible but when i stop getting results with them and if there is still rodent activity. we use a hopper style bait tube like the one in the link

 

http://www.killgerm.com/product-group.php?group=528

 

i use diffenacoum (i think thats the right spelling) in this and it allows me to use a small amount of bait at once and to monitor activity and uptake of the bait closely. i check round for dead rats every day or so and when the activity stops all the bait is removed.

 

this is only on a domestic scale like that discussed. but the main focusses are preventing unwanted acces to the bait and checking for bodies to reduce secondary poisoning.

 

this works as a great way to eliminate what is usually a fairly confined population in a short period of time.

 

hope this helps and doesnt offend anybody

 

rob

 

Rob, no offence taken by me; that all sounds like a sensible way of dealing with a regular problem.

 

If I could find anything to criticise there it would only be that I'm not a fan of the 'Rat Eyre' type bait station. The reason I don't like them is that the access holes are large enough to allow songbirds etc to get into them, and also because they are rather 'unstable' and can easily be tipped over causing lots of spillage. They are also not lockable.

 

You should also be quite wary of the quantity of bait they hold. If you check your label on the difenacoum product you are using, you will find that the maximum amount of bait at any one bait point shouldn't exceed 200grams. Those rat eyre tubes hold more than that.

 

If it was me, I'd use a dual purpose wooden bait/trap box. The ones I use can take a fenn mk4 or a tray of bait. You could leave those in place all year round to pick up passing rats, and then switch to bait if you have any rats around.

 

 

Back to the original question; as I suggested in my earlier post; there is no 'best poison' to use. The best bait will depend entirely on the circumstances in which it will be used. The best option is always to get an expert involved.

i no all rodenticides have a statuary box on them to tell you what to wear,were it should be used[indoor or out door]but what i was saying all pest control companys have to go through the bpca now to show you that you can use poisons proply and they were saying in the next few years they are looking at going back to tradidional methods instead of using poisons 1st as all that people who work as a pest controller only get shown how to deal with the problem using poisons not traditional methods.but like every thing else theres always somebody on here who knows everything

 

 

Lurchers there are a hell of a lot of pro pesties on this forum who are reading this, I have no problem with you but quit while your behind