Kay 3,709 Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 I am struggling with this camera & the settings, i took some pics of the birds today & most of them came out white , i just dont understabd this white ballence thing, what does it have to be on when your taking pics on a sunny day & on water & in the sky v most came out like this , what the hell have i done to it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dawn B 212 Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 (edited) CAn you give us the settings you used Kay, the EXIF is missing. What program, ISO, Shutter, aperture etc.. Edited July 10, 2009 by Dawn B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kay 3,709 Posted July 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 CAn you give us the settings you used Kay, the EXIF is missing. HWat program, ISO, Shutter, aperture etc.. this is what i got when i checked it , hope it helps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SEAN3513 7 Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 aperture is wide open kay...........the lower the number the bigger thr apperture and the iso is ........(very slow) i would increase the aperture to around f12 and the iso to 200.....and see what happens what is happening is the lens is wide open ( which is letting in loads of light) and the iso is vert clow which is bleaching out white/bright areas. hope this helps kay ask more if you need to cheers sean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kay 3,709 Posted July 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 Thanks Sean its this iso & white ballence thing i just dont get , i am trying to find a few tutorials on line to try to get my head round what it means I wil see if i cant set the camera to the setting you sugest & try it in the morning i was spitting venum as i could see a swan & a cygnet riding on its back through the view finder & then i looked at the preview & could have cryed The dam thing wont beat me if its the last thing i do Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SEAN3513 7 Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 (edited) keep at it mate you WILL get there i will have to dig out those books i promised you !!! if all else fails stick it in auto mode.....then you wont miss any decent pics atb sean Edited July 10, 2009 by SEAN3513 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
land rover 0 Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 Hi Kay, I don't know what camera you have, but I have a bridge fuji camera, and I went on to the faqs section by ian b and there is a good tutorial for a 350d and 400d canon. Even though we may not have the same camera, I found it useful for the basic settings. Since reading it I hardly ever use the auto settings on my camera. just thought this might help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kay 3,709 Posted July 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 Hi Kay, I don't know what camera you have, but I have a bridge fuji camera, and I went on to the faqs section by ian b and there is a good tutorial for a 350d and 400d canon. Even though we may not have the same camera, I found it useful for the basic settings. Since reading it I hardly ever use the auto settings on my camera. just thought this might help. Hi there Thanks for that , this is an old Olympus , basically a bridge camera i am slowly getting my self sorted , all i needed was to understand this aperture thing which i think i do now at least the basic concept of it anyway Its really hard being used to a point & shoot & just clicking away , cant do it with this , very much a learning curve , I am not sure if this camera has an auto setting to be honest , probably better if it dosent as i need to do it the hard way to learn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ghillies 209 Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 (edited) ISO is the 'speed that film devolopes', the lower the iso number the longer it takes (better the image quolity). shutter speed is how long the shutter opens for, the faster the shutter goes the less light goes in.(to fast it goes black,to slow it goes all white. apature is like an iris like your eye ball has, have you notised peoples puples dilate in dark rooms(the black bit gets bigger) or then close in bright light..... same on a camera, if the iris is wide open it'll let the most light in, but, more importantly, the wider it is the least will apear in focus.. so gigerivly talking if your on f/1 looking at a face, the nose will be in focus and the rest will blurr a bit (be out of fucus), the smaller the iris, like say f/22 all the head the foreground and the backound will all be in focus..just as an example like... now then... higher the iso, the more noise, most camera's go to 400 iso, some point and shoots take luvery sharp images at 800 iso, a hi shutter speed and a wide open apurture, they're letting most light in the bigest iris, with a fast iso speed so the shutter speed is really fast.... least motion blurr but, theyre sometime shit as far as image quolity..(hi iso so noise pears, fast shutter so there wasnt much image data and the highest aprture means least in focus.... narmaly..or 9 times out of ten the lower the iso the better the image quolity.(unless its too dark, or stuff is moving or both then you have no choise if you want a picture) shutter speed... heres the bit your looking for lol.... but.. it's all a blance between the three, a 'perfict' exspose (exsposure being the right shutter speed and aperture for a particular ISO that you want to make an image look like what you want) you need to jugle the settings. e.g. a bright sunny day...shutter speed 500'th of a second (fast), apature f/11 (a middle number), and iso 100 may give the perfict image quolity, but things are moving a bit and it blurrs(or too dark)... so, we need the 'film' to devolope quicker to stop the blurr..(or make it lighter) you could turn the iso up to 400.. but because the iso is now higher theres too much lite getting in(the image blows out and goes white), so you'd have to turn the shutter speed to an even faster time to stop as much light going in, or make the apature smaller, or both...(blancing the three settings, iso goes up, the image developes faster so you need less light, change the f/ to a smaller hole(bigger number) so less light gets in at the the particular shutter speed.. the faster the time for the shutter to open and close the less light goes in......if its dark then the shutter speed slows down to let more light, its open longer).) or if it sudenly went dark, a dirty big cloud came over... you'd either turn the iso up, turn the shutter speed down(to say 40'th of a second) or open the iris up a bit(a lower f/number), or basicaly, one two or all three would change. in the proper dark of night shooting a small light in the distance a 3 minute exspose isnt that long...as in the shutter stays open for three minutes, you'll defo need a tripod lol..i can hold at about 8'th or 6'th of a second shutter speed, but sheeesh the amount of blurry pics yu get.....a 3 minute shutter speed you get blur everytime without a tripod. the problem is some times you get the right exsposure but the image is a little dark or a little bright so you have an AV adjustment, usuly plus or minus 2 or 3 in steps from 0... 0 being the narmel midle setting, plus it by 1 the image is a fraction brighter, minus it by one a little bit darker(incase the picture is too bright)...(sometimes called brightnes control..or what ever, its the little dial that goes plus one plus two three..or in half numbers. the white balance, theres usuly settings like sunny, cloudy, tungston lighting, floresent lighting or auto, and some cam's have a custom setting. as far as i've got it the WB (white balance) compansates the colour affects, for instance you get your exsposures right, right but theres like a green all over the image.. thats a weird bulb in the room making the senser see a funny colour, so you have a weird green on your picture, most programs have something like Temperature and tint, or Kelvin or tones.thing that'll sort it very easily and you'll have a really good image quolity. however..set it to say cloudy and its a sunny day, euwwwwww what pukey image colour/tone look.. yu cant always sort it out on the pc for that one.. some timez you can, some times not... AUTO settings do like an 'average' setting for 'average' conditions.... like your kids birthday, in a room..or the average day in the park with the sun out, or night times(the flash pops up automaticaly what ever you do lol)..... problem is to get the best image or get arty with it changing the f/ or the shutter etc gets what you want, and not the every day standard isue snap shot. they always go to the highest iso, fastest shutter and largest apature.....(least the ones i've seen have). yeh its a picture...and yeh looks 'ok'... till you proses a few images. Kay, you were on 'manual' no probs there but you have to set the shutter and aperture (that gives the best image for the iso), so for what you were doing, if you left the iso and f/ as they were (the f/ giving the bit thats in focus) then you'd turn your shutter speed up, as the shutter went faster to say 250 you'd notise a bright picture but more detail actuly there (because it stopped blowing out white) then as you got to say 320 it starts to look really good.. then at perhaps 500 it's start getting darker shadows, at 600 start to get too dark till att 1000'th of a second it'll all apear black, sort of the oposite to the white blow out but its black.(if its a darker day the shutter speed numbers get smaller..like 8... instead of 250) sometimes you can twiddle a dark image and get something visable(the darker it was the shittier it'll look) but you cant get anything back out of a 'white out' because theres no image there at all..as in it's blown out (all over exsposed to the point it all burnt away). or if its just a bit to dark, turn the AV up a little bit...plus 1 plus 2 etc...but thats just a minour adjustment in comparison to the shutter speed going up or down a few 'stops'... it just tweeks or adds too the esposure settings(shutter and apature for the iso you chose). dun editing...oops. Edited July 11, 2009 by ghillies Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MuttleMcTuttle 21 Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 Ok Kay - I've Read Ghillies' advice, and there is some sense lurking in there somewhere, but unravelling it is a different matter... Basically, something has gone very wrong with your first pic, and it looks like it may be a camera malfunction on the processing side of things... The other pic is horribly over-exposed. Looking at the exif, you have a slow shutter speed and very wide aperture, so you were letting far too much light into the camera. Remember that the bigger the aperture, the smaller the number, so f2.8 is a very wide aperture, for dim light, and f16 is small, for bright light. An old guideline is the "sunny 16" which more or less states that on a sunny day you can use f16 aperture, 1/125 shutter speed, 100 ISO, and assuming your lens is around the 50mm focal length, the exposure will be adequate for most purposes. 100 ISO is a good starting point, dial it up to 200 in dim conditions, 400 if it's quite dark and you can put up with the noise. The lower the ISO number the more light you need, the higher ISOs are for shooting in the dark. White balance will not affect the exposure, just the colour tones. Setting it to "cloudy" will tend to warm the pic up a bit and is useful for landscapes, but on the whole auto or the presets usually work, unless you do test shots with an 18% grey card and set the WB manually. I tend to just let my camera get on with it. So, in a nutshell, best to set your camera to either aperture or speed priority rather than full manual. If you want pics of moving subjects you will need a fast shutter speed, but for landscapes you will probably want a small aperture with a greater depth of field to get all of the shot in focus. Let the WB sort itself unless you are shooting in weird light (fluorescent etc) & use the lowest ISO you can get away with for good image quality. HTH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MuttleMcTuttle 21 Posted July 12, 2009 Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 If you have half an hour to spare you will find some excellent advice here - photography tutorials Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Scuba1 Posted July 13, 2009 Report Share Posted July 13, 2009 Here is another one to think about. If you take photos with a open aperture and short exposure times you tend to get less depth of field as opposed to using a smaller aperture and longer exposure times. Using this can put the sharp bit of the picture on the main element of the shot and leave the rest a bit fuzzy If used correctly. ATB MIchael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kay 3,709 Posted July 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2009 Thanks to everyone who has taken the time to point me in the right direction i have been practicing today at a few close ups Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ghillies 209 Posted July 13, 2009 Report Share Posted July 13, 2009 http://www.ephotozine.tv/video/Aperture-Pr...w-it-works-1265 http://www.ephotozine.tv/video/90-second-d...d-tutorial-1264 nice pics again...think your getting it lol. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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