my bull x is always pulling

[Simoman 110]

Si, I'm sure that info will be valuable to plenty of lads on here, I'd deffo like to know HOW TO STOP THE b*****d DRAGGING ME ACROSS THE FIELDS, IT ANNOYS THE SHIT OUT OF ME!!!!

 

 

Aaron, give me young Spike next time I see you and I'll show you. The idea is to get a 6ft strong lead and collar and have your right hand in the loop (handle) and the left 6 inches from the collar, when the dog surges ahead you drop the lead with your left and about turn without saying anything, the dog reaches the end of the lead and receives a check, you then loop the lead back into position and repeat the about turn when the dog surges in the opposite direction. Its difficult to explain over a pc but give me Spike for 2 minutes when I see you in June and i'll show you a couple of methods that won't hurt/upset the dog and if he isn't walking correctly in that 2 minutes the pub meal is on me, can't say fairer than that

[Strong Stuff 2,171]

Si, I'm sure that info will be valuable to plenty of lads on here, I'd deffo like to know HOW TO STOP THE b*****d DRAGGING ME ACROSS THE FIELDS, IT ANNOYS THE SHIT OUT OF ME!!!!

 

 

Aaron, give me young Spike next time I see you and I'll show you. The idea is to get a 6ft strong lead and collar and have your right hand in the loop (handle) and the left 6 inches from the collar, when the dog surges ahead you drop the lead with your left and about turn without saying anything, the dog reaches the end of the lead and receives a check, you then loop the lead back into position and repeat the about turn when the dog surges in the opposite direction. Its difficult to explain over a pc but give me Spike for 2 minutes when I see you in June and i'll show you a couple of methods that won't hurt/upset the dog and if he isn't walking correctly in that 2 minutes the pub meal is on me, can't say fairer than that

 

MUCH appreciated!

 

But ......... it's only in the dark that he misbehaves .......... so, would you like to come for a walk in the dark with me?

 

 

[Guest joe ox]

Simoman AKA Barbara Woodhouse :11:

[Simoman 110]

Simoman AKA Barbara Woodhouse :11:

 

 

Don't be cheeky or i'll blow up your nose

 

Aaron, I prefer it in the dark

[JordKil 0]

Si, I'm sure that info will be valuable to plenty of lads on here, I'd deffo like to know HOW TO STOP THE b*****d DRAGGING ME ACROSS THE FIELDS, IT ANNOYS THE SHIT OUT OF ME!!!!

 

 

Aaron, give me young Spike next time I see you and I'll show you. The idea is to get a 6ft strong lead and collar and have your right hand in the loop (handle) and the left 6 inches from the collar, when the dog surges ahead you drop the lead with your left and about turn without saying anything, the dog reaches the end of the lead and receives a check, you then loop the lead back into position and repeat the about turn when the dog surges in the opposite direction. Its difficult to explain over a pc but give me Spike for 2 minutes when I see you in June and i'll show you a couple of methods that won't hurt/upset the dog and if he isn't walking correctly in that 2 minutes the pub meal is on me, can't say fairer than that

 

Have you been watching Dog Borstal by any chance Sinoman? I believe I seen them do that on there. It works a treat though

[Simoman 110]

No shows like that wind me up, full of numpties. Funnily enough when I worked for my friends training company we trained a women and her dog in tracking/manwork/obedience and less than two years later she weas offered a job as one of the trainers on dog borstal

[Simoman 110]

One of the best books on obedience is by Bill Kohler, its probably 50 years old but is still relavent today. Bill trained all the movie dogs..................

[skycat 6,173]

The problem is the same whether its a dog or a horse pulling: the more you pull the more the dog pulls and vice versa.

 

The trick is not to pull against the dog pulling: like S. says: that is the best method but one that you need to be committed to working on ALL THE TIME. Most people who have got into the habit of letting their dogs pull are hardly aware of it when the dog isn't pulling hard, so its very difficult to constantly about turn when the dog pulls.

 

I've included myself in the above scenario as when I'm out on exercise I too find it hard to remember to about turn every time the dog pulls: and if I went 100 yards it would take me 20 minutes using this method!!

 

When you have a hores that pulls you never pull steadily back on the reins, but you give little jerks, light jerks to remind the horse that you are there on the other end of the reins.

 

The same thing applies to dogs: by giving light flicky, jerks back on the lead you are constantly reminding the dog that YOU are the one that is holding the lead, and YOU are in control, not the dog.

 

As I exercise young dogs when out with the older dogs the young ones have to be on the lead sometimes so they don't do too much, so my life is made doubly difficult by the fact that the young dogs want to be off with the older ones.

 

As I jerk the lead back (not a hard whole arm movement but a wrist flicking action) I say "Heel", and gradually we get there, the really good part being when the dog responds by looking up at you as though to say "OK boss"

 

I'm not saying that this is the proper way to do things, but it works for me, including with the Airedale who has a tendancy to pull like a train unless she is doing proper heel work. On her own she walks perfectly but when there's other dogs about she wants to get ahead of them.

 

I use voice a lot to get the dogs to respect me and my wishes: saying "heel" in a really savage voice, then praising in a soft voice when the dog obeys teaches the dog what you want it to do.

 

IMO far too many people don't speak to their dogs enough when they are training or working them. A hunting dog out hunting, whether lamping coursing or whatever is bound to be gee-ed up to the maximum and your voice will remind the dog that it is there working with you and not doing it for itself. Stating the obvious here: a good relationship at home with the dog is essential. You can't expect to pay the dog no attention at home then take it out and expect it to pay attention to you when its surrounded by game in the field.

 

A dog in that situation simply sees you as a nuisance that is holding it back from doing what it wants to do: establish a partnership between you and the dog before going out in the field.

 

Like has been said: get a slip rope lead and fix it with the toggle right up behind the ears and give little jerks on the lead to get the dog back to you. DON'T yank the dog hard when the lead is in this position or it will really hurt it: your'e pressing on nerves when the lead is in this position.

 

I find that all my young dogs settle down by the time they are 18 months to 2 years old and are working regularly: a dog that is working regularly won't be so hyped up as one that seldom sees game, and that includes all types of dog, big, small, Bull, Saluki: everything.

[richard25 0]

I think them Kohler books are abit outdated now although i totally agree with the techniques you suggested though & i totally agree about dog borsal lol what a load of ,,,,, i just think Kohler is typical of the "old" style of dog training and one of the reasons the police in the country had alot of dog abuse cases at there kennels in the 90's, in one of his books i read he suggest grabbing your dog & lifting it in the air by its lead & letting him choke until his nearly fainted lol and thats suggested for a aggressive dog lol. i was really looking forward to reading his books and they were a real let down for me ( his a hollywood dog trainer lol ) and difinatly no Ivan Balibanov or cesar millan

 

You have been give some good advise on this thread though, so i would stick to that.

 

A couple of pointers though

 

1) make sure the collar is on properly something most people dont even think about but theres a reason show dogs have there collar really high & thats for control so make sure your dogs collar is right at the top of the neck.

2) start you walk or outing properly with the dog, dont leave the house or kennels until he is calm & submissive even if it takes fifteen minutes wait

as patience really is a virtue needed with strong willed excitable dogs lol

3) when trying to correct your dog pull up with the lead or straight across in a jerking motion but match the dogs intensity in the correction you make.

4) never walk him with tension in the lead & make sure theres slack on the lead as after a while if you are allways pulling your dog they get conditioned to feeling the lead with tension & it starts to become just part of there normal life & when you do eventually give them some slack on the lead they will pull again just so they can feel the tension

 

Couple of other things to try even nothing works.

 

Everytime he goes to pull turn around & walk in a different direction, you may end up walking around in circles for afew minutes but he will get the point quite quickly ( this is how i taught my dogs ) also if you have the patience just stand still everytime he gets ahead or tries to pull & just n wait for him to calm down ( you need alot of patience for that method lol )

 

So good luck & stay calm and consistant

 

Goodluck

[shaun dee 7]

Shorter slip leads available from tomorrow!

 

Will give that a try, my shoulder is sore as feck today after a good few hours out last night.

 

Mines spot on road walking, but gets a bit excited when out lamping ..........

 

thats what hees like he gets the idea when walking arround the streets but when we go up the local quarry its different

[shaun dee 7]

he dose rabbits and rats and also whatever we see out there if you know what i meen

[shaun dee 7]

welcome to the world of bullxs mate,,, what do you expect iv been pulled and pulled and in the end feked em off then you end up with a rabbitin dog that wont do rats horses for courses mate, love em or hate em, never seen a bull x walk at heel on the field thats why they drive the fields fed up with being pulled around em

 

 

its all about control i can lamp my bitch from heel and belive it or not shes a first x all thats needed is time and patients

 

he dose rabbits and rats and also whatever we see out there if you know what i meen

my mates got a first x bull and he lamps her from the heel also

[shaun dee 7]

Bull X's that behave definitely exist!

 

There's a man I know got a cracking animal, Celt, doesn't even have it on a lead!

 

 

I'd say it was a training issue, it's down to me to learn how to sort it and then pass it on to the dog.

 

well origianally the dog was from (scarbrough) and it was never used to get let out it showed because when a friend went for him he was red in colour and so was never trained untill i got him but never solved the pulling situation.

thanks for comments

[shaun dee 7]

there is a feww thing you can do but the easiest is just keep the dog on a short leaddont allow it to walk infront of you

 

the lead ive got him on is 48" so he usually walks in front of me

[Simoman 110]

I think them Kohler books are abit outdated now although i totally agree with the techniques you suggested though & i totally agree about dog borsal lol what a load of ,,,,, i just think Kohler is typical of the "old" style of dog training and one of the reasons the police in the country had alot of dog abuse cases at there kennels in the 90's, in one of his books i read he suggest grabbing your dog & lifting it in the air by its lead & letting him choke until his nearly fainted lol and thats suggested for a aggressive dog lol. i was really looking forward to reading his books and they were a real let down for me ( his a hollywood dog trainer lol ) and difinatly no Ivan Balibanov or cesar millan

 

You have been give some good advise on this thread though, so i would stick to that.

 

A couple of pointers though

 

1) make sure the collar is on properly something most people dont even think about but theres a reason show dogs have there collar really high & thats for control so make sure your dogs collar is right at the top of the neck.

2) start you walk or outing properly with the dog, dont leave the house or kennels until he is calm & submissive even if it takes fifteen minutes wait

as patience really is a virtue needed with strong willed excitable dogs lol

3) when trying to correct your dog pull up with the lead or straight across in a jerking motion but match the dogs intensity in the correction you make.

4) never walk him with tension in the lead & make sure theres slack on the lead as after a while if you are allways pulling your dog they get conditioned to feeling the lead with tension & it starts to become just part of there normal life & when you do eventually give them some slack on the lead they will pull again just so they can feel the tension

 

Couple of other things to try even nothing works.

 

Everytime he goes to pull turn around & walk in a different direction, you may end up walking around in circles for afew minutes but he will get the point quite quickly ( this is how i taught my dogs ) also if you have the patience just stand still everytime he gets ahead or tries to pull & just n wait for him to calm down ( you need alot of patience for that method lol )

 

So good luck & stay calm and consistant

 

Goodluck

 

I think Kohlers tracking theories were suprrpassed by the master Glen Johnson but I still think his methods were revolutionary in the 50's and many are still applicable now, there are many good trainers out there and Balbanov/Dildei etcv etv are very progressive...........Many force dogs are still trained using the yank and yell methods divised 50 years ago.............