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Everything posted by Nicepix
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Yes I agree with that, however I'm not convinced a curved base plate is really needed, as it just forms a roof over the opened tunnel section. I don't know if the curved plate forms a tighter roof and whether that has any advantage. I've been thinking exactly the same and that could be behind the move towards wider, flatter traps of late. When I squeezed the traps down from 74mm to 65mm it increased the pressure on the retaining wire and therefore the trigger latch meaning that each trap required retuning. I'm sure that putting a flat top of around 25mm with steeply curved sides out to
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One of the other things to take into account is the effects of chemical welding where two touching parts become adhered together. This is more so when the two pieces aren't from exactly the same batch of metal. Once you get the trap moist the process starts and would also be affected to some extent by the constituents of the soil.
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To my way of thinking there is too much play in the trigger mechanism and that combined with the trigger loops being set where they are causes foul captures. Like many trappers I bend the triggers forward which reduces the foul captures, but is detrimental in that it raises the effective height of the trigger from the base. Possibly inciting moles to dig under and fill the traps in soft soil. Also, there is too much length in the latch. One mm travel in the latch equals ten or more times that travel measured at the bottom of the trigger loops. And, the longer the trigger loop, the less force a
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Well done. Hope that you get many more. Just one thing though. You said that the farmer was happy. Are you sure? I've never seen any farmer happy side of bleeding miserable.
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Is that single catch one you've got stamped 'Fenn' ?? If so, it's worth a bit well, I'd buy it anyway............ It's a genuine Fenn, but bl00dy useless IMO. I inherited all my mate's stuff and there is some real junk amongst it; scissor traps that you can't set because of the retaining link and some old tunnel traps that are similar in spec' to the Duffus Mk.2 that was included. There's a couple of Fenn Mk.IV rabbit traps too that I'll never use. I'll keep them just for the sentimental value.
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I really only do gardens. If I do get onto farms its only a few hectares and I bung everything onto a fishing trolley. But for most of my work I use this set up... There are three trays of twelve Flatpacks in one box and another tray plus about twenty Talpex and plastic covers in the other box......... Underneath those is another tray with the emergency traps in; a dozen or so Putanges, 3 of the the old Duffus type, some eBay schite and if things get really desperate, four Traplines. The larger green topped box contains markers, spare gloves, hand wipes & towel, firs
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Very interesting - Thanks. When I got the Duffus (No Patent) trap I also was given two or three virtually identical traps, same size, weight and to my eye, design. One is stamped something like W142 or similar. I take it from the original post that Mr. Jolly also made traps for other companies? I'd bet mine are possibly from a business called Farmstar near Doncaster.
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When I first started trying to trap moles the farmer who'd asked me to clear them bought me six of those traps. After two months of blocked traps every day I splashed out for some Duffus traps and caught in five out of six traps the next day. There is some absolute rubbish on sale out here.
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No idea mate. I'm only licensed for moles I just know that those traps, or pieges as they are known over here are sold for trapping voles and rat taupiers. I've never picked one up so I've no idea how they fare against the piege de taupe. If I need to trap voles, weasels or rats I just set a Putange.
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They are sold in France as vole traps, not for moles.
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Yes, they are totally useless.
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Putanges are available all over France, in garden centres, DIY shops and even supermarkets. However, the quality of them is variable. I can get a pair with triggers and a setting tool in one shop for €3.95 (less than three quid). Exactly the same thing in another shop is over €6, I've had some that literally rust in a few weeks and others where the spring power is vastly reduced in no time. I managed to find a shop that sold some that turned out to be far stronger than others and do not rust. But the shop hasn't had any in since and now stock a different type. I think that the traps were too s
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Try this: http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Wire-Vole-Trap-Bavarian-Wire-Trap-2-Pieces-/400837589736?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d53c83ae8
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If you make a trap that is ready to go straight out of the box you will have far more house holders using those traps to a greater degree of efficiency than at present. Anyone can find out how to tune a trap, but I'll bet that not many do and even fewer do it to a good standard. And if you put a badly tuned trap in a tunnel, no matter how carefully the odds are it will be unsuccessful. Also, the cost of removing the burrs and swarf from trap mechanisms will impact on the cost of traps as there will be a greater degree of manual work involved. And tooling costs to work on stainless will als
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The whole point of these traps is simplicity. Two round surfaces only held together by the power of the spring and so easily tripped. Start putting grooves and flats in and the trap won't be anywhere near as hair triggered. The ones I bought that cross over if accidentally triggered will last a lifetime as they don't appear to rust and retain a phenomenal amount of power even after almost a year. Normal Putanges tend to lose some of their strength as time goes on.
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I don't see how Matt can make that statement and at the same time try and suppress any posts about how to set a trap. If knowledge doesn't make you a mole catcher then why all the secret squirrel stuff? Tuning a trap, particularly a Duffus type, has been the difference between the amateur and the pro' for quite a few years.
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The first batch of Flatpacks I received were around 65mm across the body, were shiny steel, had no maker's name endorsed and are stainless throughout. The body feels to be a thicker material than the third batch. I think I got them around April 2012. The second batch were similar, but had the maker's name on the side, had a slighty grey powder coat type finish and are around 70mm wide. They are stainless throughout, but I suspect the bodies are galvanised. They came around June 2014. The third batch are more grey in appearance, 74mm wide and stainless throughout. The body does not seem
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All credit to the company for listening to its customers. The MkII Duffus I have, endorsed J Duffus & Son, but not the patent, is 60mm across the base of the body and the wires are 55mm across at the widest point. I have managed to squeeze some of the latest FP Ultimates to around 65mm across the body rather than the 74mm they come as. 74mm is far too wide and entails extra work to open up the tunnel above the 'groove' the mole runs through if you know what I mean? The original FP Ultimate is 65mm across the body and IMO is the perfect size. The narrower you make the trap the harde
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Bryn, If you have the trap as you describe, flick the pin over so it is pointing towards you and as you squeeze the handles together you can gather the pin under one thumb and use it as a lever. Makes setting a doddle.
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It is good that FP are willing to look at their design. But for me the ultimate tunnel trap was made by them around three years ago. I have some here and they are around 65mm wide, made of such strong stainless steel that they will not squash down to 60mm, they just bounce back. The wires are harder than anything on my other FP traps and the other distinguishing feature is the lack of the Flatpack name on the side. I also have two other versions of their Ultimate traps that are successively worse than the previous incarnation. I understand that cost has to play a part and that may be why t
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Sorry, no. If you can't figure something out with only two moving parts then there is no hope for you.