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Tremo

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Posts posted by Tremo

  1. I think I will try loading 50grn vmax and one other similar 50grn head... Load 5 of both types of bullet at minimum powder, then as I said, increase both heads by 0.2 of powder each time up to max load. Then pick the best group of each bullet... Then maybe very lightly crimp the two best loads (of each different bullet) and see if it improves either round... Then pick my overall winner and stick with it so long as I'm happy with the results...

     

    Expect more questions and a good thread to read soon!!

     

    Sounds like you are on the right track mate. :thumbs:

     

    Personally I would go up 0.5 grains at a time to begin with. If you want to tighten it up even more drop down to 0.2 grains at the next reload session, when you are closer to the best weight. Going up 0.2 to begin with will be quite a mammoth task if you work from the published starting weight to the maximum weight.

     

    ATB

    • Like 1
  2. WOW! :icon_eek: I'm going to have to come along and see this paradise of yours!!

     

    The bunnies round here are not that plentiful, the crows all have a set of binos each and the foxes ............ well I think that they prefer a night in by the TV rather than venture out! I'm sure that I saw a delivery man dropping a curry off in the woods the other night!! LOL LOL

  3. It need not cost a lot though, as I said earlier, find a good accurate load that works well in your rifle and stick to it, just try to ensure you can get a ready supply of the components (easier said than done these days) I would advise you to stick to neck sizing cases fired from your rifle only, Lee collet dies are very very good and load some superb ammo and are relatively in-expensive, your brass SHOULD last a good while, I get roughly 8-10 .243 reloads out of my favourite Federal cases, I could probably get more, but as a rule bin the cases after 10, if I get that many, and trust me on the factory crimp die :thumbs:

     

    +1. Consistently getting your hands on the exact same components for your load of choice can be a ball-ache. You have two choices:

     

    1) Either try and stockpile as much of it as you can (staying within the constraints of your ticket of course) before the source runs out. Remember, by being a handloader you can request an additional "projectile" allowance on your ticket. ;)

    2) Have a small number of recipes for using say two different types of heads and two different types of powders. This will give you four different loads that you can knock up. Of course you could take this even further and substitute the primers and also the brass if you want that level of detail.

     

    Personally I've gone with the 2 heads / 2 powders option. I haven't run out yet.

    • Like 1
  4. As much as it's time it's more about cost. I'd love to spend a day at the range but at £2.80 a pop I simply can't afford to.

    For me when hunting the simpler the better and to know I'm going to drop a fox providing I do my bit it's as easy as drop to bipod check distance and backstop then shoot. I find shooting rabbits with the .22 more of a challenge taking into account bullet drop distance wind etc. At least I know a fox within 300 yards is as good as dead without having to look at range cards etc

     

    Too right chum. :thumbs: . Your damage to the fox population speaks for itself. Why change something that isn't broken? Stick with it. ;)

  5. For me .......

     

    .22-250 zeroed at 200 yards (handloads), and .223 zeroed at 170 yards (handloads). I only use these distances because the projectile (specific to the load) is flat out to these distances, and a little further. If I plan to shoot longer range targets I use a ballistic calculator. This takes time though as we all know, by time you fanny around inputting the data. Bearing this in mind I can understand why some of the guys (e.g. Dan) uses the 'a' inches high at 'b' yards method though, because he might not always be in a position where time is a luxury. If a fox pops out at 250 yards then he knows exactly where to sit the crosshairs.

    • Like 1
  6.  

    Isn't the CQBS made of stainless steel?

     

    Thanks rake so what's the difference on the CQB or CQBS? Apart from about £25 lol

     

    no the cqbs is shorter. i think its only 90 mm over all length

     

     

    I didn't know that. Mind you, I never really looked into it.

     

    Greenkeeper ................ take a look at the ASE Utra SL5 model also. There are smaller and I have read some good reviews on them. I have a good idea that these are stainless though (law of averages I have to get one correct! :laugh: ).

    • Like 1
  7. The majority of my reloading gear is RCBS. Its good quality stuff and will outlast me for sure. That being said though I also have some Lee and Hornady kit. It all gets used.

     

    I have loads for my .223 and .22-250 that will do .25" to 0.50" at 100 yards. It really didn't take that much tinkering if I'm honest. There is a huge amount of data on the web these days that is so useful.

     

    It is addictive, but as one of the posters said earlier in thread, it can also be quite therapeutic. Mind you, listening to the Prodigy at full blast can be a more calming experience than watching one episode of Eastenders! :yes:

     

    I haven't worked it out exactly, but I think it cost me around 39p per round to reload for the .22-250, and around 33p to reload the .223.

    • Like 1
  8. I would take the offer but feel a couple of 5 shot magazines will be a better bet. Do they (the 5 shot) suffer with the occasional sticking of the 10 round magazines? I've heard the 10 round magazines are better loaded with 9 rather than 10 rounds?? Anyone tried this?

     

    Yep, I tested this a while ago. I personally found that filling the 10 shot magazine to capacity increased the possibility for a snag/stick. From then on I started to load 9. I must emphasise though that I was (and still) use Eleys. I have been tempted on numerous occasions to move to Winnies, but out of my rifle I find that the Eleys are just too accurate and consistent (for subs anyway).

  9. Come on lads get your hands in your pockets

    The mags where used daily for neigh on 8 years at work hold 10 not 9 don't occasionally stick and the thinking men among you realise that 5 ten shot mags mean one full box of ammo loaded so no faffing about with half full boxes of ammo.

     

    £10 each or £30 the lot !!!!! To h4h or julias house children's hospice saves them from the bin

     

    P.s if some kind gent or gents do take these I will match any donation that goes to julias house

     

    I would have them off you mate, but I'm a 5 shot magazine man. As I said, my 10 shot magazine is only there for backup.

     

    Cracking offer though. :thumbs:

  10. Finally!, 3 days waiting for these winds to die down. Just been out and got a nice tight zero on the .223, can finally have a crack at the chicken murderer on the farm, so far he's had 3 chickens an a lamb, wish me luck :thumbs:

     

    i'll post the pic if i get him.

     

    Tell me about it! I live just south of you and on a number of mornings I have woken up and expected to be in Oz with a dead witch under my house. :laugh:

    • Like 1
  11. Depending on what subs you use, you might experience the occasional round sticking in the 10 shot mag. I generally use Eleys in my 1417 and they can be a little waxy on the head. Like I said, sometimes one decides to stick on the way up. Its hard to tell, especially when you are out at night, and a dry fire isn't what you want with quarry in the crosshairs. Winnies are less waxy and give no such problems.

     

    I tend to load up my 5 shot mag for use, and keep my 10 shot in my pocket for a quick swap if necessary.

  12. I always use my gut feeling when talking to new land owners. You can tell the ones that are genuine, and the ones that would sell you down the river without a second thought.

     

    I always try to maintain a good level of communication with my land owners. I always tell them when I expect to be about, and I try to call around the farmhouse when I can. I find that this way works for a good relationship. To me there is no need for a piece of paper when you have established trust between both parties.

     

    I've only just recently let a good permission go because I was not happy with the lady owner. She never returned calls, and was never around when I arranged to drop in. It just didn't feel right.

     

    Just my experience. :thumbs:

    • Like 1
  13. Cheer mate. I'll take a look.

     

    It is going to have to be a break barrel. I used to have an AA Prosport and while ago, and I managed to slice a piece of flesh off one day when I was repositioning the cocking arm after reloading. :icon_eek::cray: . I left my hand over the breech port. :icon_redface: . I just can't be trusted. :whistling:

     

    As well as owning many Air Arms in the past, I've had a good number of Weihrauchs (springers and PCPs). I might take a look at the HW99.

     

    Cheers.

  14. Chaps. What are you thoughts on one of these?

     

    I'm after something decent for minimal outlay that will allow me to do some rat control in areas that are unsafe for my rimmy. I might use it to do some treerat bashing as well. I'm not interested in a PCP.

     

    All constructive advice/opinions and alternative options appreciated.

     

    Cheers

     

    Tremo

     

  15. I,m also from North kent . Had my Fac for a few months now for fac air and 22lr. I also have a closed ticket. I thought that as long as the land had been passed for the calibre you are using then you was good to go, I phoned Kent police headquarters with a couple of new permissions and was told they were cleared for what I was using so I said I can start shooting then , I was told on the phone that I cannot start shooting these other pieces of land until I have sent Kent police written permission for these pieces of land, I thought this was wrong so I phoned my feo and he told me it was Kent police new policy that this it what I had to do, pain in the arse as a lot of farmers and people I shoot for don't want to be bothered filling forms in and I just don't want to keep bothering them, I would check with your feo first

     

    Unbelievable.

     

    As well as us, wouldn't this also create more work for them at their end, so adding extra burden to a possibly understaffed department?? The mind boggles! :icon_eek:

  16. A lot of scope for the money. Punches well above its weight for sure. As IanB said though, the 6.5x50 is due out in the next month of two. If you need the extra mag then wait for that model. Personally, I feel that if you only intend to shoot rats and rabbits (close range stuff) then the 4.6 magnification is good enough. :thumbs:

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