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ABDog

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Everything posted by ABDog

  1. Well yeah. . but. . the nutritional requirements of the 2 species are very different. Just not heard of it before (although, do know of people who give/have given goats milk to puppies). . .
  2. Good post skycat. . always good to read what others are feeding, kind of backs up what we already learned over the last few years of raw feeding It is important to remember that the raw diet doesn't suit every dog, even though it should. So, if your dog doesn't do well on it, you shouldn't feel you've failed. Just means you need to adapt a little and work it out - which you will, it isn't rocket science (even though it seems uber complicated to start with, it really doesn't have to be). The solid waste issue alone is good enough reason for me not to want to go back to kibble One
  3. I know this wasn't aimed at me but I do have the answer for you It is fine to feed raw and 'complete' kibbled foods but it is not advised to do so in the same meal since they are processed at different speeds and are alleged to cause problems (I have no first hand knowledge of this since I never feed them both at the same time). MY LAW - this is the first time I've read that the vitamin and mineral requirements of a puppy are the same as that of a baby. . not disputing your post but would be interested to know more about feeding powdered human milk to puppies.
  4. I have 2 adult dogs, 1 almost a year old and a young pup. . . the 3 older dogs eat solely raw meat and bones. The pup eats about 50/50 IAMs puppy and raw meat (although she's reluctantly eating the dry food now, much preferring the carnivores diet ) How much to feed is more an art than science. . you need to watch your dog. If it gets chubby feed less, if it looks thin then feed more. Every dogs requirements are different, totally dependant on how much energy the individual uses. Google is your friend, read as much as you can. . . all the pro's and cons, the various ways of feeding (jus
  5. Just renewed with BT. . they're the only ones round here I can get half-decent speeds with. Told them their service was too expensive so they upgraded all my equipment to the new home hub (much better than the old one) and reduced the monthly payment to £19.99 (down a fiver)
  6. My take on the metal vs. wood thang is this. . If you can trust your dog(s) not to chew (or you can adequately protect it) then wood should be warmer. It looks nicer than metal but will require regular maintenance. The metal panels are galvanised so require little maintenance, they are sectional so relatively simple to take down, dogs can't chew them. All down to personal preference . . . . I can't trust myself to do the maintenance thing (and mine was originally put up for American Bulldogs) so chose metal.
  7. Ours is very basic, if I ever manage to get a dog (or 2) to live in it I'll do some home improvements
  8. Up until about 18months ago I used Four Seasons homeopathic wormer every month (1ml on 2 consecutive days) and never saw any signs of worms. . . For the last year been using Drontal Plus and will continue to do so for at least a few months yet. . . ~Hippychick~ I think it may help people to see pics like that to reinforce the importance of regular worming. When you don't see any signs it's easy to become complacent (please don't read that as me suggesting you were in this case )
  9. Keepers Mix is a powdered supplement which I've only ever heard of being used in a raw diet - I use it on defrosted tripe days . . check out http://secure.dorwest.com/prodinfo.asp?number=KM for details on it. Give Beta a go, see how your dog does on it. One other thing to consider is availability. Make sure that your food of choice is readily available locally.
  10. I'm not THAT up on what's (still) about or not. . someone said that Nutro had gone bust (or had been bought by Pedigree and they were trashing it). . Remember a few folk from my pet trade days (one of whom had a greyhound kennels) who got results with tripe and a working greyhound (dry) food. Raw tripe is good for building lean muscle mass and, as has been mentioned, keepers mix from dorwest herbs (well, get it from elsewhere it'll be cheaper ) is a good additive - the only one I use. I see a lot of value in raising young puppies on a high grade complete diet. . while I do believ
  11. No, it won't. But it's importance in a carnivores dietary requirements is often overstated. And people often forget that it must be liquidised (or processed by the prey animal) since dogs cannot break down cellulose. Mine get veg randomly and not as part of their diet. Simply because they seem to like it. Particularly cooked broccoli for some reason
  12. From about 6 months I would be switching to a raw diet if possible (and none of that veggie stuff - they can get that from rabbit guts if they need it). Check the labels, you need to be looking for decent amount of meat content, low (or no) grains. . gluten free. You don't need stupidly high protein levels or a large breed food. . steady, natural growth is preferable to accelerated. Hills is, imo, overpriced. Bakers, again imo, has too many additives (just look at the pretty colours ). I've had (and heard of) reasonable results with Chum complete puppy, IAM's puppy, BETA, Purina, Kirkl
  13. The non FAC Weihrauch springers are reputed to produce around 11.5 quite consistently. Air Arms pellets are supposed to be good in .22 flavour. I use H&N FTT's in my HW95K .177 and they seem ok. Not that I have vast experience of pellets (or shooting).
  14. Beta isn't the best dry food. In fact, there isn't one. For as many diets out there, there are dogs that they are not suited to - even raw. Some dogs may do ok on Bakers but it's not a particularly high quality food. Many feel it's quite the opposite, in fact.
  15. She's coming up to 12weeks and takes food really nicely. . . doesn't touch my fingers at all. Now she's settled in I wanted to start laying down some basics . . just easy, fun stuff. .
  16. Interesting . . . I have heard mention of these before but how durable are they? The pup seems to like ragging everything at the mo, would like the dummies to be able to take a bit of a puppy-bashing
  17. Looking to start some retrieval training with the whole 'dummy in a bunny skin' thing. What size dummies are advised for young lurchers. . 1/2lb or 1lb (or other)? Did a quick search, didn't come up with owt - sorry if this has been done to death. . . Cheers
  18. Cheers guys, I guessed as much but wondered if people used fresh and changed it (a lot! )
  19. Just one question. . .the fur you wrap around the dummies. . is it fresh off the bunny or does it need tanning/curing or something?
  20. For lurcher training, would you wrap a fresh rabbit skin round the dummy to teach the retrieve or would you use a prepped one?
  21. Vets are sponsored by the major pet food manufacturers and are subsequently spoonfed information (read : brainwashed) by them during their training.I have zero interest in discussing canine nutrition with a vet, I have access to just about anything I need to know on the subject.
  22. F**king hell dude, replying to you is likely to make my eyes bleed.The quotes are within quotes, I have replied to YOUR posts, not mine. Forget it, you obviously struggle with some aspects of forum usage.
  23. Hi look back a few pages, thread on training a lamping pup, open link and read article, hope it helps. Click here for the link to the thread.Just had a read myself, looks a good article
  24. I wouldn't be consulting a vet about canine nutrition. . . . the majority seem to be worse than useless. Lol, i would agree with you there ABDog, but the vet is my brother in law, and he is a descent bloke... He just asked me how i fed the rabbits, when i told him i boiled them, he just mentioned it being the best way. As worms would be a problem.... Its not hard to boil a rabbit, i know it is easier to throw it a raw one, it is also easy to throw your dog in a pen and not towel it down after working in mud and rain, who would do that! ummmmm, i wonder. What happene
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