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WoodsmanJim

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Everything posted by WoodsmanJim

  1. WoodsmanJim
    Personally, if it were mine I'd grind/sand/ sharpen it back till all the chunks in the blade are gone, but that's just me. If you're just going to use for hacking about and dirty jobs then you could just sharpen it up as it is. If it turns out to be annoying to use with the dents in you can always grind it back at a later date. what does your gut tells you is the best way to complete this knifes story? :-) Jim
  2. WoodsmanJim
    The scales on my type D are about 10mm thick each. The fieldcrafter that I handled in the thread that you commented on Hobble, I started with 12mm thick wood each side and the tang is about 5mm so I've ended up with a really thick handle. It's really about personal choice and if you've got the chance to make a handle you can make to whatever thickness you want it. I like a chunky handle so went big, other prefer slimmer handles. Most wood sold for making knife scales with is 10mm thick so what you have won't be far wrong, but just do it how you want really! Jim
  3. WoodsmanJim
    I'd leave the pitting on all of the blade other than the edge, just clean the remaining rust our of them. It gives it character. The edge will need a fair bit of cutting back to be straight and clean, but not so much as to ruin the overall look of the knife. As for rivets there are lots of choices, once you've cut the old ones out I'd be tempted to chamfer the holes on the new handle scales, use brass rod and peen the ends down. If it were my knife I'd do this because a) I want to try it, and b ) I think it'd look great! Jim
  4. WoodsmanJim
    Here we are folks, looks good! I'd be tempted to give it a good going over with a wire brush too, get right into those pits. I reckon that blade will cut back to a good edge again, will take some work but doable. Gonna be a great knife with a good story behind it too... Jim
  5. WoodsmanJim
    Mahogany will look very nice on that mate, looking forward to seeing it. Jim
  6. WoodsmanJim
    Not sure Moxy, I don't want it to end up too dark and loose the patterns in the wood. That why I used neats foot oil as it's the palest oil I have. It still went a fair bit darker after only one light coat, so really not sure. I used to subscribe to the "once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, once a year forevermore" principle of oiling new wood to ensure proper protection, but it'd end up basically black! Any suggestions welcome.... The next one I do I'll use a very pale wood with some really defined burls in. Maybe some spalted birch, or something with
  7. WoodsmanJim
    Ooh, now that is something I'd like to try gafer. I did buy a sheath with it from Matt but my wider handles are a very snug fit and actually stretching the stitches at the top a bit too much. How much do you want for it? Jim
  8. WoodsmanJim
    Thanks chaps, I've done deliberately to have a thicker handle. Slightly thicker than Matts standard handle I think, as I like them that way. One of the advantages of doing your own! Thanks for the kind words guys, glad you like it. Jim
  9. WoodsmanJim
    Aye, can't wait to see the results of the blasting either! Very handy having a mate who can do that for you I've just done my first ever knife handle in English Walnut, was easy to work and has nice colouration to it too. In theory you could use any wood at all, a hardwood would do well though as I guess it'll hold up to knocks and bangs a bit better? Jim
  10. WoodsmanJim
    UPDATE... it's finished!!! tonight I got some man cave time so wasted no time in cracking on with the knife handle. It's not perfect, mistakes were made and lessons learned. But for a first go I really rather chuffed with it! it fits beautifully in my hand, so comfortable. Can't wait to try it out in anger and see if it's still as comfy. feedback welcomed both positive and constructive. Jim This is after I lightly oiled it:
  11. WoodsmanJim
    I've been offered £1.50 skinned and gutted. £2.50 seems lime a great price! Jim
  12. WoodsmanJim
    Here's Hobbles knife: As you can see it matches the pic that Joe put up, so is in fact an MOD survival knife, but not a type D. Still a good knife and well worth a resto on imo. Be a fun project and you'd have a knife for life when it's done if the edge can be brought back to sharp. Jim Jim
  13. WoodsmanJim
    Pretty sure that's an 'MOD' rather than a 'type D' there Joe. The grind and handle shape look more like MOD, the type D has a convex grind and doesn't have the 'toe' bulge at the pommel end of the handle. Here's my genuine, ex-issue type D: A genuine one will have this number and the 'arrow head' stamp too: Jim
  14. WoodsmanJim
    They were issued to airmen and some special forces in the 70's and 80's. So not REALLY old, but old enough to be good quality! They are very popular among bushcrafters and survivalists due to them being made of good metal and a very useful design. I've seen really good examples complete with original sheath for sale for over 200 quid! Dunno if they ever sell for that though. They were replaced in the 80's with the "MOD survival knife" which wasn't as good a design/ shape or as high quality metal so never got as popular. I'll get a pic of mine for you to confirm the I'd if that'd help? Jim
  15. WoodsmanJim
    Type D's are awesome knives. I have one myself and would never let it go. You're never going to carve a masterpiece with one but for rugged reliable multi-purpose and VERY strong blade, it's tough to beat! Get some pics up! :-) Jim
  16. WoodsmanJim
    Another vote for Gerber here, specifically the legend 800. Had mine for about 10years and it's miles better than any leatherman I've ever seen (and I've seen them all cos I used to sell them!) Best thing about the legend is the saw blade is interchangeable and accepts any standard fit jigsaw blade, so if it breaks no worries. Also of its not the right profile for the job just change it! The whole thing is much more shaped and therefore comfortable to hold and use also, leathermans are just rectangular and uncomfortable to hold. My 2 pence! Jim
  17. WoodsmanJim
    I thought I’d just share a little project I’m up to at the moment. I got a wonderful Fieldcrafter blank for Christmas from the wife which I’m even more glad to have got my hands on one now that Matt has stopped making them. It really is a wonderful blade! Anyway, I’m sure you’re all aware of the quality of these knives so I won’t ramble on too much about them, but if you haven’t got one and ever get the chance to own one, do it! You won’t be disappointed. My next problem was how to choose what to make the handle scales out of, so many choices! Micarta always looks good in a utilitarian kind
  18. WoodsmanJim
    Not a nice thing to happen to anyone, I'd much rather Weidman had knocked his cocky ass out again. Can't stand Anderson Silva, it'll be better without him. Jim
  19. WoodsmanJim
    I got as far as region 6, after that the trophy hunts needed a rifle with some ridiculous power level and the only rifle in the weapon shop with enough power could only be bought with a lot of 'glu points', and they cost real money. You can get 'glu point's for free by downloading and playing other games and doing other special offer things, but to get enough points to buy the rifle would've taken forever of pratting about and downloading about 100 other things. Can't be arsed with that! So it's either that or spend real cash. If it had been a fiver or so I might've done it, but it was gonna c
  20. WoodsmanJim
    I have an F1, it's always been near impossible to get readings from it indoors or even on very grey overcast days outdoors. But I guess if you want fine tuned accuracy from it, then it's going to need only optimum conditions in which to work. Can't comment about other chronos, never owned or used any others. Jim
  21. WoodsmanJim
    Aye, it's a fair way into the game (once you're hooked ) It is fun though. Jim
  22. WoodsmanJim
    It's free, for while...... Gets to the point where you can't proceed any further without buying certain guns and upgrades that cost real money. Shame 'cos I was enjoying playing it till that point. Jim
  23. WoodsmanJim
    I use a 501-b and attach with the same kind of clamp that's in this listing: http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=200998545135 Does me well enough. Jim
  24. WoodsmanJim
    No worries, no need to be sorry! I wasn't trying to be an arse or anything. Just trying to avoid confusion! Hope you get sorted. Jim
  25. WoodsmanJim
    it completely matters. for example some rifles can have either a 400cc or a 500cc buddy bottle. If you have a larger buddy bottle/ air tube on your rifle you'll get less rifle fills per dive bottle full. Simple physics. Any given volume of air at any given pressure cannot fill a 500cc bottle to 100 bar as many times as it can fill a 400cc bottle to 100 bar. Jim
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