camokev64
-
Content Count
178 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Articles
Gun Dealer's and Fieldsports Shop's
Reloading Room
Blogs
Calendar
Store
Classifieds
Everything posted by camokev64
-
Please do,and enjoy your day....
-
Your right pal,there are some keepers who shouldn't be in the job and can't handle the pressure,bad tradesman always blames their tools.I go picking up with in reason, on my terms because I've got confidence in my dogs ability, Stick in.
-
A good few shooting people should take note of this informative article,especially the last few sentences.As I have said before,the majority wander down to a drive with the lead off " dog raking about,whistles blowing,game gone for for miles around" then low and behold the lead and corkscrew go on upon arrival at the peg" Laughable.
-
One thing in the way of vibes that I am getting is that you really don't know how your dog is going to react in a game situation,so I would, in your circumstances air on the side of caution if you really want to be asked back. I know it will feel a bind to you,but feel your way into the shoot,better the lead is on, than spoiling paying guns day... We are well into baring the fruits of our training that has been carried out in the close season... I have had a busy day with enquiries about the rabbit pen...being proactive close season is far better than reactive in the season.. And yes I
-
Thornit Powder treats these symptoms : Does your dog constantly scratch or rub his ears? One of the most common causes is ear mites that can cause canker. SIGNS Brownish wax inside the ears. This is made by the mite inside the ear canal. The wax can either be dry, or may weep slightly. The ears tend to be smelly. The other type is much more offensive, and stinks of gangrene, while discharging globs of pus. If your dog is suffering from sore, smelly, or itchy ears There are no antibiotics in THORNIT, so it can be used in perfect safety. Application. A pinch of powder is applied using t
-
If it's ear mites I would recommend Thorn it powder ( buy online ) or Advocate flea etc..but you will need a prescription for this or buy direct from vet..Front line will be no good for this.. Stick in..
-
Some very good points to be gained from this reply,one being that you or your actions become the release mechanism to your dogs success... Stick in.
-
It can get that way... Try this,one part of guiding / training a dog is the conditioning of the mind,recognizing situations in which a dog reacts to commands and physical barriers...always be your worst critic,forever review your decisions.. WITS END.. Once your dog has cleaned itself morning/night..never let the dog rake about....guide the dog to walk to heel,if it wont,your giving it options, so LEAD ON !..till it does.... If the dog ignore`s firstly the stop whistle then the recall, do not chastise the dog upon it`s return...if it happens at 20-400 yards get out there and administer
-
The one sensible thing that you seem to be doing is not entering the dog till your goals have been reached.The high % of gwp in your dog is probably contributing to the dogs maturity and also with the Labrador mix dependant on its breed lines.Another thing is to be realistic,in that I mean that the dog is NOT good at the basic's.All working gundog breeds should be able to stop on the whistle and return on recall.... Replicate your own and the dogs weaknesses and guide according. Stick in....
-
Canine Parvo is passed on when dogs come into direct contact with each other via feces.This can quite simply happen by a dog that has stepped or even yourself in an affected dogs feces.It is simply transmitted back into your kennel,"and we all know how dogs like to lick".hence injested..Foxes are susceptible too. Dogs usually build up enough antibodies by the age of 5 to not warrant annual boosters,but that's up to the individual. It's times like these that everybody should be mindful of their own kennel Bio security.The "good old bleach" and jeye's fluid does absolutely diddly squirt..agai
-
Not that i am a massive fan of tests,but they are a good medium to use,to judge how your training in that dog is going....I use the tests myself now and again to do just that ..this year i entered a Lab i had been training for 2 years in his first novice test and he won...Now i knew the dog had been ticking all the boxes through his training,and believe me,i will definitely never enter a dog if i don`t think it will have a chance of winning..So that gave me an indication that the dog was ready for formal walked up game training days,to progress him to the next step and see his gears move up on
-
Your quite entitled to your opinion mate......as i read it lots of stuff you write i wholeheartedly agree with. I'm not into the trialling stuff myself, i pick up and beat with my dogs and as you know the dogs are worlds apart in there chosen fields. Ive never read a gundog book either, flicked through the odd one but i tend to do my own thing as well as listening to others who have done a good bit. Ive been very lucky with the first dog i have ever properly owned myself.......not so lucky with my pups but its my doing and not theres. I'm sure i'll still be learning 35 years down the road as
-
ill let some else answer this one,"as he shakes his head".....
-
Of course it is,get the dog to drop to whistle while walking,both on/off the lead..then get him to drop while you walk on,returning to collect the dog mix the training up...after that try the recall with the stop whistle .....you'll also need to cover the turn whistle if shooting or beating over him correctly.......
-
Hi Lab, And i am a predominant Lab man myself...The reason for my findings is that i find that the Spaniel breed has a very fast knack of grasping it`s training structure from an early age...some thing that i have not noticed with the Labs..for example this year, i trained a Cocker and her entry age on a formal field trial training day was 10 months ( she was ready for it ).She sat on flush/shot,sat quietly/steady while the Labs where sent for the retrieves and walked to heal when switched with another spaniel when being given a breather. But that is not to say that i have not known Labs
-
The seeds of the stop whistle can be introduced as early as 4 months in conjunction with it`s lead training,using nurturing playful techniques. Stick in...
-
The entering of a dog into the shooting environment can be defined by a few factors..1:The training structure the dog has undertaken.2: Breed 3: whether the dog has shown competence at it`s age to allow for entry to happen. With all dogs i train,i never think for instance that this dog will be 12-16 or 18 months by the time shooting shooting season is upon us and that is my aim for it to be ready. The breed of dog, and the "MOST" important point here is that ,your training structure and the dogs absorption determines when a dog is ready to work, and more importantly steady enough to shoot ov
-
You`ll have an uphill task to hold the dog in game situations due to the fact that as it sounds the dog has no fundamental training for the shooting field. But here`s a little pointer,at the age of 4 months i place tennis balls at 5 yard zig zagged intervals 10 yards apart in bracken.Working into the wind i encourage the dog verbally to hunt the set pattern alternating from verbal to turn whistle. it`s all about practice and dedication were the fruits are harvested.. Good look...
-
18 Months is quite an advanced age for a Spaniel to be instilling basics into.15/20 yards is not a distance you want to work a Spaniel at, if you want to shoot over it,no more than 5 yards max infront and 10 yards either side of you."KEEP THE DOG IN AS TIGHT AS YOU CAN" because they do pull on scent and also when they come onto open ground. I hope for your sake the dog has had a good basic training schedule,you can`t cut corners getting from A-Z.. A correctly trained Spaniel to shoot over is a sight to behold... Stick in..
-
Jack, I presume your talking about picking up after a drive when you mention the 15/20 yard working in front of you and not shooting over..! if so i would not get to worried about that distance..Just as a point of interest how old is the dog ?
-
I would of thought the first and most important thing to consider when looking for a potential stud dog, is to look at your own bitch and highlight her weaknesses. EG : ..hunting ability,control,and right down to eye health + hip/elbow scores. Then go on your quest to find a stud dog that compliments your own bitches short - falls. Colour would be the last thing on my mind,but improving the breed in working ability and health would be my goal. Stick in..
-
Now Pathfinder ( Biff ) was and still is some animal..I`ve witnessed that dog pull off some mega distance retrieves.He is enjoying his retirement. Old George,god bless his soul,had some cracking dogs also,it was great days remembered on the rabbits at Langley/Whitfield.. A breeding good mix....and very good value for money..... ATB.
-
Depends on how old the dog is,what the dog is and what standard you want to achieve.But one thing, never be a busy fool...
-
Doesn't matter what breed your mate wants to attempt to train,if he ain't got any experience of the task ahead he's going to make it hard work for himself. The common sense approach to the task is to gleen as much information from his local gundog clubs and from genuine gundog people around.For his first dog he will require dogs from historic low tempo lines,and to instill the correct basic manners from an early age,which can be aided with private tuition and dedication by the bucket load. Stick in..
-
Advise Needed Re Lining Working Cocker.
camokev64 replied to bucknut's topic in Gundogs & Retrievers
Bucknut. Line the bitch 3 times minimum,leave her with the stud dogs owner if possible.Better a good brimming,than an empty tank. Stick in
